Need help with Z-ing!

[The Big Green]

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

Its only your money for him to go in and cut more because the first cuts weren't deep enough to make it lay. I think everyone's saying you should have done this research beforehand, and more clear questions always help when you want things answered. Rather than the frantic after the fact its not laying low enough what do I do now type of a deal.

It's laying, and I did research. I don't care about the money. I'm trying to learn new things a little at a time. I don't have time to keep my face in the computer screen all day searching for bag things. I have way to much to do throughout the day to search this type thing. I'll pay and me him work his magic lol. Look at a previous tread of his work on back and you'll see why I'm not worried. At this point he's getting a little extra cash. Maybe he should have done a 3in Z, but what's done is done. Always ways to get an 1in or 2

[The Big Green]

What should the Z be? Why have I searched and seen 2.5, and why the hell would you do 6in Z's???

[Bazooka]

Most people do a 3" - 4" Z..

You could always run 3" drop spindles. Summit has a good deal on DJM 3" spindles.

[The Big Green]

Originally Posted by Bazooka

Most people do a 3" - 4" Z..

You could always run 3" drop spindles. Summit has a good deal on DJM 3" spindles.

Well, we finished a 2.5 but did a lower arm step, 1.5. I'll just do a 3in spindle now. This route keeps my tranny tunnel lower, engine lower, and the 3in spindle and 1.5 arm step keeps my camber at a minimum

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by The Big Green

.....I try and use this site but why all the negative talk?

I believe suggesting drop spindles was helpful as was having more of a frame 'Z'. I didn't want to come off harshly, but the measure-twice cut-once philosophy is what many of the guys in this section preach but sometimes it doesn't seem to reach the intended audience.

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

Its only your money for him to go in and cut more because the first cuts weren't deep enough to make it lay. I think everyone's saying you should have done this research beforehand, and more clear questions always help when you want things answered. Rather than the frantic after the fact its not laying low enough what do I do now type of a deal.

Exactly.

So to help others that are considering mods like this in the future . . .... Establish the goal for the vehicle & design/build w/that goal in mind. In other words, don't build it to almost lay-out on 27" tall tires when your goal is to have it lay-out flat on 31" tires (it takes more work).

I can't speak for others, but there's no raggin' on you from my camp. As always, post the pics of the truck once you have it back in your posession

[The Big Green]

truck is is being setup for a certain tire. I was on 15's so I found a steal on some 20's, $400, 2 were brand new tires, 1 was runflat, and 1 had a knot.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by The Big Green

truck is is being setup for a certain tire. I was on 15's so I found a steal on some 20's, $400, 2 were brand new tires, 1 was runflat, and 1 had a knot.

That makes no difference when your planning.

If you know the height your trying to lay out with, the rest is just math calculations. If the tires are inconsistent, you set them up so they reflect the height your trying to achieve. All you technically need is one tire that's the correct dimension & work from there.

[Shane]

You also don't want to put those 3" spindles on top of those 1.5" stepped A-arms.

[The Big Green]

Originally Posted by Shane

You also don't want to put those 3" spindles on top of those 1.5" stepped A-arms.

I'll probably get new arms later on. I'm leaning towards a 20/22, always liked the smaller on front. 22's and you have to move the hinges, and I think 20's u don't. I've searched and seen pics and I saw a truck with a 20 on front and barely tucking tire and it looked great! Black truck, 20/22 Intro Vistas, set about a inch off ground, framewise.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by The Big Green

I'll probably get new arms later on. I'm leaning towards a 20/22, always liked the smaller on front. 22's and you have to move the hinges, and I think 20's u don't. I've searched and seen pics and I saw a truck with a 20 on front and barely tucking tire and it looked great! Black truck, 20/22 Intro Vistas, set about a inch off ground, framewise.

You will definitely have to relocate the hood hinges when laying frame... even with a 20" wheel. I know it's a little late, but wouldn't a Firestone bag allowed you that extra .5" of dump you needed?

Where's all the pics?!

[The Big Green]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

You will definitely have to relocate the hood hinges when laying frame... even with a 20" wheel. I know it's a little late, but wouldn't a Firestone bag allowed you that extra .5" of dump you needed?

Where's all the pics?!

Yea, and now my hood and fenders just came down another 2.5in lol. Where's everyone getting hood hinges at? I set this up for a 285/35/22. I ordered a Slam bag but after giving FBI like 2mths, I gave up and had the Doms drop shipped from Airlift. They compress a extra .3inches but they are a big bag. They are 2.7inches compressed, what are Firestones?

I want new arms and spindles pretty soon. If I install my 454 and blower on a bigger Z than 2.5 then my scoop will be over the roof LOL. How can I lay a tire like I want on a Z my size? That's really all I need to do. He's stepping my arms 1.5 on a 2in spindle down the road when I get 22's. If I get arms then where do I stand?

[fastbagged68]

My suburban is laid out on a 28" tire in the front with no Z, 2.5" drop spindles, and no stepped arms.
My front will lay out on a 29" tire too....

Big Green, I'm not knocking you but you should have done some more measuring when you started.
Have you figured out what ride height will be? When you step the lower control arms they will tend to hang to low.
Like porterbuilt said you will need to get new hood hinges. They won't work, and your fenders will need to be cut to lay out.
Alot of guys are getting the hinges from http://www.sachserodshop.com/pdf/212.pdf

[tucn1ton]

[The Big Green]

Tucn1ton, pic didn't show up but from the looks of that Burb, it's JJ's old Burban. He's from barling.

[The Big Green]

Just saw the pic in your profile. Your the guy who bought it, that's cool. One sweet ride! Some of these guys on here dont seem to like, or agree with my truck build, or my trucks plans. It's finished now, but if you don't mind, please tell these guys how chopped up and how crappy your trucks bagged job is on those 22in Budniks and that Z. You see, that job on your truck is pretty killer, well, mine is bagged and Z'ed by the same guy. Where were you from in Arkansas, I forget?

[cajundragger]

Theres no need for bigger than 2" of z. period. after 2 the engine gets raised to high.

if you already z'd it 2.5 then section the crossmember 1.25", raise the steering .5" to clear, cut the hell out the upper spring pocket and plate the inside, throw your stepped arms away and get ART arms or new stockers and reangle the upper bj. That setup will lay 22's with a 2" spindle or 24's with a 3" and with a slam bag get around 14" of lift.

pics of 1.75 z, 1.25 c-member raise, cut upper pocket, 2" spindles and ART arms. setup is on 245/40/20's but still lays on top of 2x4's laid flat with -5 degrees of camber











glad to see everyone else up to their usual mindset of bash the thread starter and provide no information.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cajundragger

glad to see everyone else up to their usual mindset of bash the thread starter and provide no information.

Where did you see this?

[cajundragger]

just the bs of he should have z'd more and measured twice...etc.

the guy asked what else can he do and that he's not z'ing anymore, and Im not sure, but out of two pages he may have gotton 2 or 3 answers?

[cajundragger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You'll need more of a frame 'Z'.

wrong

Originally Posted by Shane

I would have just used the 3.00" spindle considering it's only .500"

useless info

Originally Posted by Shane

Exactly, all that work on the a-arms for only .500" more IS pretty stupid (your words not mine).

Had your fab guy done a better job measuring while doing the Z, he wouldn't have had to do all that extra work to the a-arms.

Always remember, young Skywalker, Measure twice. Cut once.

wrong, doesnt need more z

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

Its only your money for him to go in and cut more because the first cuts weren't deep enough to make it lay. I think everyone's saying you should have done this research beforehand, and more clear questions always help when you want things answered. Rather than the frantic after the fact its not laying low enough what do I do now type of a deal.

he doesnt need anymore z. theres plenty more ways to get this truck on the ground without shoving the engine/trans through the cab floor




Im just saying, the guy asked a simple question, and got bashed for some irrelevant (for only z'ing 2.5). This is just tradition here though. and now I've been suckered into posting meanless bs as well.

[The Big Green]

Cajundragger,

That's good info. I got my truck done. We did the 2.5In Z, dropped the Dom bags in the lower arm, cut and straigtened the upper arm to align the balljoint so it's not in a bind, and and it lays on my 20 with a 27in tire. I did do a 3in spindle to lay on a 22 in a few months. Plans are a 22/24. Trucks lays flat on pinch weld on that work, strange don't you think? LOL. Atleast you know that a 2in is fine. I have a electronic dist. with a Accel supercoil cap and even with the cap of the base where the cap sits hits the firewall. I'd hate to have a even bigger Z. I'll know more with my carb and breather on but it may be close to the hood then. I don't like the valve covers thru the hood look lol.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cajundragger

Theres no need for bigger than 2" of z. period. after 2 the engine gets raised to high.

if you already z'd it 2.5 then section the crossmember 1.25", raise the steering .5" to clear, cut the hell out the upper spring pocket and plate the inside, throw your stepped arms away and get ART arms or new stockers and reangle the upper bj. That setup will lay 22's with a 2" spindle or 24's with a 3" and with a slam bag get around 14" of lift.

pics of 1.75 z, 1.25 c-member raise, cut upper pocket, 2" spindles and ART arms. setup is on 245/40/20's but still lays on top of 2x4's laid flat with -5 degrees of camber........ glad to see everyone else up to their usual mindset of bash the thread starter and provide no information.

If you read the original post, I got out of it that he wanted to get more drop after the 'Z' w/o spending the money for dropped spindles. If you calculate the cost invloved w/paying his guy to do all the mods you suggest (after already doing the initial 'Z'), it would most likely equal or surpass the cost of the spindles. So...... I feel the exact opposite of what you suggest. I've tried to help but feel any good advice is just ignored or bashed by someone who doesn't agree w/my suggestion.

For the record, I didn't bash. What i read was he didn't want to spend over X amount of dollars & didn't want to do a bunch of extra work but then didn't end up w/what he wanted hence my suggestion of measuring twice, cutting once.

I can only speak accurately for myself, but we (other members & myself) suggested drop spindles & that wasn't enough so I suggested more of a Z. If the guy can do a 2.5" 'Z', he surely can do a 3.5"

Why would increasing the amount of 'Z' or adding 3" spindles cost more than removing the c.member, sectioning it, re-installing it, raise the steering, & then modifying the a-arms?

Although we try to help, our answers aren't always what is wanted. That being said, they shouldn't be considered useless information. Just because one chooses a different option, it does not render all other choices worthless.

[Shane]

know-it-alls are always good for a laugh ...

[cajundragger]

Originally Posted by Shane

know-it-alls are always good for a laugh ...

yeah you always seem to make me chuckle

[cajundragger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

If you read the original post, I got out of it that he wanted to get more drop after the 'Z' w/o spending the money for dropped spindles. If you calculate the cost invloved w/paying his guy to do all the mods you suggest (after already doing the initial 'Z'), it would most likely equal or surpass the cost of the spindles. So...... I feel the exact opposite of what you suggest. I've tried to help but feel any good advice is just ignored or bashed by someone who doesn't agree w/my suggestion.

For the record, I didn't bash. What i read was he didn't want to spend over X amount of dollars & didn't want to do a bunch of extra work but then didn't end up w/what he wanted hence my suggestion of measuring twice, cutting once.

I can only speak accurately for myself, but we (other members & myself) suggested drop spindles & that wasn't enough so I suggested more of a Z. If the guy can do a 2.5" 'Z', he surely can do a 3.5"

Why would increasing the amount of 'Z' or adding 3" spindles cost more than removing the c.member, sectioning it, re-installing it, raise the steering, & then modifying the a-arms?

Although we try to help, our answers aren't always what is wanted. That being said, they shouldn't be considered useless information. Just because one chooses a different option, it does not render all other choices worthless.

if hes at 2.5 he's already too far. by stepping up to 3.5 or more he will have even more engine/trans clearance issues. every quarter inch of z makes it worse.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by cajundragger

....glad to see everyone else up to their usual mindset of bash the thread starter and provide no information.

Exactly how many ways do you suggest the advice be offered before you feel it's good information? Questions were asked and answered, but it wasn't the answer the OP wanted to hear.

Your insight and advice is appreciated, but your suggestion that bashing is the norm on this forum is not.