Yet Another Air-Ride Question; Valve Set Up

[Thorbecke Bros.]

Originally Posted by XXL

Did you mean sway bar?

yeah lol

[kev2809]

that only lets u dump both at the same time though right? not individualy?

[Shane]

yes ...

[michael bustamante]

so with that 3 valve set up,thats good for lift and dump and the 3rd one is to keep the air from transferring right? Or is it to equalize the air betwen the 2 bags?
And all 3 are wired to one switch?

[michael bustamante]

Originally Posted by kev2809

that only lets u dump both at the same time though right? not individualy?

Thats exactly what I want,

[Shane]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

so with that 3 valve set up,thats good for lift and dump and the 3rd one is to keep the air from transferring right? Or is it to equalize the air betwen the 2 bags?
And all 3 are wired to one switch?

there are two check valves that prevent the air from transferring ... the third valve at the back is used only for dumping.

[michael bustamante]

Gotcha.
Thank, you man.

[tdave00]

What are the brass things at each front corner? Do they only allow the air to flow one way? Oops. You already answered it. Missed that.

[michael bustamante]

Heres another question. load levelers. Are they recommended for this type set up so the truck will be level since this type isint for individual bag inflation?

[michael bustamante]

Originally Posted by Shane

there are two check valves that prevent the air from transferring ... the third valve at the back is used only for dumping.

where can i find those inline check valves?

[Shane]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

where can i find those inline check valves?

http://www.*****************/air-mana...mc-check-valve

[ZR2RICK]

why couldn't a guy use one valve to fill both bags, with speed control valves on each line and one valve for dumping air as shown? has anyone ran a system setup this way ? I,m in the process of setting mine up and want one switch control of front, and one for rear.

[blime81]

Originally Posted by ZR2RICK

why couldn't a guy use one valve to fill both bags, with speed control valves on each line and one valve for dumping air as shown? has anyone ran a system setup this way ? I,m in the process of setting mine up and want one switch control of front, and one for rear.

You can do this but as mentioned earlier the air will transfer side to side creating body roll. Best to use 6 or 8 valves. You can wire the valves together and individually on 3-position switches. Then you could raise/lower each axle or each corner.

I like a switch boxes like this. http://*************/air-management/s...r-switch-wlock

It greatly simplifies the wiring as you just wire each valve into the control box, stash it outta sight and it'll give you many options for adjustments, all, left, right, front, back, each bag etc.

[ZR2RICK]

so a check valve won't stop the air transfer from side to side?

[blime81]

Point of all this is to save a bit of coin and reduce complexity right? Lemme see if I can break this down.

Originally Posted by ZR2RICK

so a check valve won't stop the air transfer from side to side?

For now I'll just talk front axle and 3/8" valves and parts from my favorite company:

Example #1
For a 2 valve setup you'd need 4 four check valves to stop side to side air transfer.
http://*************/air-management/c...valve-fittings
4 check valves $24 ea = $96 per axle in check valves.
http://*************/air-management/valves/smc-38-valve
2 valves $29 ea = $58
Total (plus fittings, line etc): $154 to go up and down
12 push to connect fittings to leak (plus comp, tank, tees etc)

Example #2
For a 3 valve setup you'd need 2 check valves to stop side to side transfer
2 check valves = $48
3 valves = $87
Total (plus fittings, line etc): $135 per axle to go up and down and side to side on up only.
10 push to connect fittings to leak

Example #3
For the gold standard 4 valve per axle setup you need
4 valves $29 ea = $116 per axle for full control on each corner
8 push to connect fittings to leak

So looks like less line connections and less cost for a BETTER setup. Even better than that, SD cuts you a break on buying 8 valves so its really only $113 per axle for the SMCs.

At a minimum I would suggest a 4 valve setup up front and a 2 valve setup (sans check valves) out back such as this http://*************/files/how_to/wir...ams/6valve.gif
But the reality is if you are gonna bother with bags do it right and just do 8 valves.

Some of you will say but you can get parts cheaper or already have them or I left out the cost of wiring more valves or whatever. Look, I'm not saying that YOU have to do anything a certain way. Do whatever you want, it's your truck. I'm merely trying to show that things aren't always what they seem in saving money. There is a reason that MOST of the trucks on this forum are done with 8 valves.

First truck I bagged was in 2001. A '61 on train bags with ball valves, hose clamps and an air storage tank from Walmart so I know about doing it on the cheap. But I owned my '72 for 10 years before I bagged it. For me, I never intend to sell the '72 so it was worth it to me to do it right the first time.

[ZR2RICK]

I'm not trying to build on the cheap , I have been building custom bikes and cars for over 30 years, safe, reliable vehicles. I am only questioning the need for so many valves, I work with pneumatic control systems for a living,(34 years) so I do know the specific kinds of problems these valves have ( the smallest dirt particles cut their reliability down considerably),but regardless, I was only hoping someone could point to their specific experience trying to use check valves to eliminate the air transfer problem since they are inherently more reliable than the more complex solution. I will try them out myself and report back if anyone is interested.