Have you guys seen this roller pait job?

[Sillyoldman]

I've been researching the roll on paint process. It's quite inspiring. It's not very possible that I'll be painting my own. I'm not experienced in body work. I suppose if I pay someone for the body work it would not reason to take the final step of a pro paint job. My Buick may be a candidate for the roller since its pretty straight.

[Pop's C-10]

All good info

[andyh1956]

years ago before i even started school i went with my grand daddy to an old ww1 vets house, for something that i don't remember now. anyway the old feller was out in a tractor shed painting what i remember being an old '46-'48 style of ford car. and he was using an old hot shot bug sprayer!
hey markeb01- i have thought about the reverse rock pecks under the fenders also. what would happen if we spayed the inside of the fender with spray on bedliner? i wonder if that stuff would stay on under there. 29 days left!
andy

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by andyh1956

years ago before i even started school i went with my grand daddy to an old ww1 vets house, for something that i don't remember now. anyway the old feller was out in a tractor shed painting what i remember being an old '46-'48 style of ford car. and he was using an old hot shot bug sprayer!

When I was a kid I saw several cars that had been painted using a vacuum cleaner with a painting attachment! They were quite "distinctive"! One guy even painted his 1950ish Chevy pickup in Zolatone using a vacuum cleaner. It looked like it was covered in blotchy mouse fuzz. Not a lot of pressure available to break up with liquid droplets.

Originally Posted by andyh1956

hey markeb01- i have thought about the reverse rock pecks under the fenders also. what would happen if we spayed the inside of the fender with spray on bedliner? i wonder if that stuff would stay on under there. 29 days left!
andy

Back when I had money that was exactly what I had planned when it came time for the repaint. I was going to strip the fenders on both sides and coat with epoxy primer, then have Line-X shoot underneath about 1/4" thick. I'm convinced it would block any further star chips. Unfortunately when it was time for paint I was living on an unemployment budget so those plans went out the window.

[94tx]

bugeyev8, might be a newbie question, but what primer sealer? Is that a coat to be put on top of primer or a special primer?

markeb01, that looks awesome, exactly what I want. I just want to get my truck in primer cause the panels on it are all pretty much a different color. Figure once I graduate I can afford to buy the equipment, or pay for a paint job.

astrochimp, what size compressor and gun did you use? I've seen some cheaper guns and compressors that the specs "agree" with each other but am skeptical.

thanks for the replies.

[sams60gmc]

I'm planning on doing the roll on Rustoleum over the Rustoleum spray primer.

[Turkey]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Yes, knowledge is a wonderful thing. I have yet to read a post where anyone stated that automotive paint isn't better. But there are all kinds of needs, and all kinds of price ranges.

Everybody can't afford the welding equipmnet to fix holes and the equipment and the products it takes to properly apply activated automotive paint.

I, as well as many others here, applaud the ingenuity it takes to find alternatives to the established "rules" on how to build a truck on a budget.

[Mach5]

Just throwing out another option if anyone is considering this.

Some of the Moparts guys have tried this with urethane boat paint instead of Rustoleum. The boat paint is designed to be rolled/brushed as that's how yachts are often painted, and since its urethane, it should stand up to the elements better. The urethane boat paint is more expensive at about $35 / qt.

I did one of my cars this way and it came out great, but it was a lot of work! The paint has a very nice gloss and is very hard.

[c10Mang]

Check these: http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...job/index.html

[gulfcoast66]

Two good write-ups c-10mang.. I think the carvair anwers alot of questions about durability for me.

[glendale]

i gave it a shot today on my off topic projects dash. i think with a cut and buff it will look pretty good.

[jeffspower]

When I was about 4 years old my dad bought a '52 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup for $50 and drove it home. It was your typical green, patina and rust color. About this time, they painted the brick foundation of the house black. Having leftover paint, dad thought... why not? So he washed the truck off, taped off the glass/ lights/ chrome/ etc. and proceeded with a brush. Granted, you could see brush marks big time, but I'm sure it made the neighbors happy. It looked good going down the road at least. He drove that truck every day for at least 8 years until the engine died. The paint was faded by then, but no problems anywhere. Keep in mind it didn't get sanded and had plenty of surface rust that was just painted over.

My grandpa done a '52 grain truck the same way with JD green paint before I was even born (1968). It rarely seen a day parked inside. A friend still has the truck out in his pasture. Last time I seen it, it still looked pretty good. I can't say that about any 40+ year old OE paint sitting outside. Next time I'm back home, I'll get some pics of it

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by markeb01

I’ve seen film clips showing a Model T being painted on the assembly line, and it appeared they used a pressurized paint hose connected to some sort of spray valve that in turn was connected to what looked like a leather mop, which continuously dribbled paint. The worker just started at the top of the body dragging the mop all around the perimeter until the entire body was covered. What a mess, all the excess ran off on, and was presumably recycled, but who knows – it may have just run down the drain. I’m sure the results looked more like dipping than spraying.



I first tried rolling on primer after I read about it on a painting site, and saw it being used on one of the truck tv shows. My first attempt was using regular PPG DP48LF (white) regular (non-roller) spray primer. I didn't see any reason it wouldn't work, and did the roof of my wife’s truck with the little foam rollers and a couple of foam brushes, and it turned out great. It has a slight eggshell finish, but was intended to be sanded down anyway. This is epoxy primer, not fill primer. It can be exposed to the elements for years without rust forming. I had DPLF90 (black) on my bare steel tailgate for 7-8 years and no rust ever started. We subsequently gave the truck to my son, and it's been sitting outside neglected for 3 years and the roof still looks like the day I put it on. The only downside was it really stinks while drying and I have an attached garage.



When I repainted my truck last year, I needed high fill catalyzed primer, so I bought the U-Pol kit shown at the following link:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PSH

Since it’s 2 part with isocynates and I don’t have full breathing gear, I wanted something that didn’t need to be sprayed. It’s the most amazing primer I’ve ever used. Dries very fast, no shrinkage, and easy to sand.

When I first painted my truck the fenders looked perfect, much nicer than they appear in this rather tired photo:



After nine years driving up and down a road with rocks sharp enough to pop steel belted tires, the tops of the rear fenders were covered with star chips, and the front of the hood was equally beat up. At the time I wasn’t up to stripping to bare metal again, so I just feather edge all the chips and body worked them flat. This left pock marked fenders with depressions all over the surface. So I sanded everything down as best I could and applied several coats of Upol in batches (block sanding between coats) starting with a roller, and working down to a small foam brush. Interestingly, when I went to mix it I could find no mixing instructions for the roller application. Turns out it's just a different brand of high quality primer that was designed to be sprayed on. So I just used the normal mixing instructions and it rolled on easily.



After blocking everything out for the last time, they looked just like new again once the paint went on.



The 3rd photo shows I applied this over some pretty big areas, and all of it was either by roller or paint brush. For any future small repairs, brush or roller is the only way I’ll ever do primer application again. It’s really fast with great results and very little clean up.

Old thread...

Awesome Post!

I have been having my own psychological battle with this.

I want my truck protected but still want to be able to use it as a truck.

I mixed up Rustoleum because it was easily available.
Here's the color I concocted:



I just went right over the old paint that I will later strip as I repair each panel and then coat with epoxy.
Now I'm thinking I should use something other than Rustoleum as my final coat.
I do want blue.

[markeb01]

That turned out great. So did you spray the Rustoleum or apply by brush or roller?

[LostMy65]

I rolled it.
Some parts came out real nice.
Other areas I fought air bubbles.
Tried the blow dryer trick - didn't work.
Had to use a light stroke with a foam brush.

I figured when I went back and stripped and repaired each panel, I would spray the Rustoleum to get a better finish.

[LostMy65]

I mixed Royal Blue and Flat White.

[jocko]

great thread! Good info and very interesting. So, here's a question - aside from losing the obvious enviro benefits of roll-on... why couldn't one simply spray cheap rattle can laquer rather than roll it on? Wouldn't that do much more to minimize the block sanding time? Or, just how "self-leveling" is the roll on stuff? The results are amazing. And I agree, despite saving money, I just hate cleaning the guns....

[markeb01]

The biggest disadvantage to rattle cans is the film thickness. A spray gun can easily put on ten times as much paint, and a roller/brush probably lays down double or triple that amount. Spray cans can produce decent results, it just takes a lot of them to put on a long lasting amount of paint.

[LostMy65]

Buying the quart size is the biggest bang for the buck. Also, rolling is less taping.
Posted via Mobile Device

[62 Barnfind]

What was your mix? To get that color?

[ole dollor]

now i know how ole dollar is going to get it's new paint job.....guys thanks for this info. got to love this board....

[bama63]

i have used this many times on everything from heavy equipment to tractors and comes ready to use direct to metal and can be mixed in any color under the rainbow this is a synthetic enamel by ppg and holds up for years in this crazy alabama weather covers well with a roller,brush or sprayed and best of all only $42.00 a gallon with hardner

[LostMy65]

The ALK family of alkyd enamels offer good
durability while remaining cost effective. Factory
package colors as well as custom matched colors
are available. Most CPC alkyd topcoats may be
applied as a one component product for easy
use.
ALK200 is a very fast dry enamel that is ready to
be applied directly from the can. No reduction is
required and the addition of a hardener is
optional. ALK 200 produces a glossy finish but
can be flattened if necessary for matching
purposes. This topcoat may be purchased in
gallon cans or five gallon pails as well as
aerosols. Ideal for jobs that require a fast
turnaround with minimal cost, ALK200 is a
popular choice.
Another popular alkyd enamel is ALK300 . It
offers enhanced durability with 3.5 compliance.
Packaged at a higher viscosity, this topcoat may
be brushed or rolled as well as sprayed via
conventional or HVLP equipment.
Factory pack colors are available in the ALK FP
series. These include popular colors such as
Caterpillar Yellow, John Deere Green and others.
If exceptional durability is a priority, then the
AUE series is the product to use. These two and
three component topcoats offer outstanding
gloss and color holdout while keeping within
environmental regulations. AUE 100 , 300 and
360 offer the same color options as the ALK
topcoats but add the benefits of a catalyzed
urethane. AUE370 gives you a direct to metal
option, virtually eliminating the need for priming
on many jobs.
If primer is a necessity, api has you covered
there, as well. Inexpensive shop coat primers
and alkyds give you a fast dry for quick
turnarounds with good adhesion and corrosion
resistance. Most of these primers come
packaged at a ready to use consistency and can
be tinted to enhance topcoat coverage. For even
better adhesion and protection, epoxies are the
answer. A variety of epoxy primers for different
applications are available. EEP primers are one
component 3.5 VOC epoxies. You get an easy to
use, high-film build primer that can be sanded.
For the ultimate in corrosion protection, the CRE
series is hard to beat. A catalyzed polyamide
epoxy, CRE primer is tintable, high-build and
gives unbeatable value.
Beyond industrial coatings, api carries the PPG
Delfleet finishes. These coatings are designed
for the fleet refinisher. Color matched to factory
specifications, Delfleet gives the customer
unsurpassed gloss and durability in an easy to
use system. Primers, sealers, basecoat/clearcoat
and single stage colors for every application are
available. Delfleet Essential is one of the most
cost effective and user friendly products offered.
With all the choices the customer has when
selecting the correct product, a little confusion is
common. We can help you. Whether you're
painting a lawn mower or a locomotive, with
over 40 years in the paint and refinish business
we can give you the experience and technical
expertise to get your job done right.
Posted via Mobile Device

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by 62 Barnfind

What was your mix? To get that color?

I originally wanted a suede finish, so I started out with Sail Blue and Flat White.
32 oz of flat white to 8 oz of sail blue. I also wanted a slight grey hint so it didn't look too 'pretty' blue. Additionally, I wanted a slight hint of perwinkle, so I added 1/2 tablespoon of Sunrise Red.
Adding the red threw the color off by making it too grey for my taste. After doing some research, I found in paints and inks to make purple you need magenta, not red. So I added a little magenta. Now it's more perwinkle than I wanted.
So I did some more research and found that blue is made from magenta and cyan. So I figured Royal Blue had just the hint of purple I needed when lightened with flat white it would give me periwinkle. And it did.
The color on my truck now is a mixture of all my concocted mixings.
If I was to do it again, I'd mix just Royal Blue, Flat White, and just 1/2 tablespoon of flat black.

[LostMy65]

Here's a post from another forum:

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:39 pm
Use PPG Industrial Coatings, ALK200, it is a Acrylic modified alkyld enamel about $30 to $40 a gallon depending on color. I have painted utility trailers and equipment with and it will last years. It stays shiny and doesn't fade. I use Omni MH101 or Shopline acylic enamel hardner because it is cheap about $16.00 a pint. ALK200 is suppose to be ready to spray, but I thin it with Shopline or Omni urethane thinner about $20 and it lays down slick with no orange peel . This paint will flash fast if you don't use a little reducer. In the past I have sprayed machinery paint thined with laquer thinner and it seemed to take six months to get hard, ALK200 gets hard in about 48 hours. I really don't see much difference in this and Omni automotive acrylic enamel.