what od auto trannie for a 69 bbc 4x4

[coggonobrien]

MB-70, looks like you have the same idea as me i've got a 396 large oval port out of a caprice that will become a 427. It's going into my 68c10 swb fleetside that is becoming a 68 k10 due to the donor k5blazer i have received.

What's the proper technique to reorient the pinion without getting hurt?

[SeventyOne]

I had an email discussion with monster a few months ago and inquired if they could build a 700r4 with the np205 compatible output shaft and they said it's something they do all the time, so no problem there.

As far as the DIY4X crossmember I guess you could use the stock engine crossmember - I just wanted to go with a stronger piece with modern engine mounts.

Not sure I understand your question about cheating with the T-case...are you asking how far do you need to move the engine forward to not have to move the transfer case crossmember/Linkages/dshafts? I think it's 1.625" forward.

Proper technique for changing pinion angle - cut off existing leaf spring pads, (you'll need new pads to weld on), rotate the pinion up so the pinion/yoke is pointing directly at the transfer case output yoke. Then with an angle finder rotate it back down 2 degrees. Turn on the welder and burn in the new pads. (proper shop safety will keep you from getting hurt )

[coggonobrien]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Proper technique for changing pinion angle - cut off existing leaf spring pads, (you'll need new pads to weld on), rotate the pinion up so the pinion/yoke is pointing directly at the transfer case output yoke. Then with an angle finder rotate it back down 2 degrees. Turn on the welder and burn in the new pads. (proper shop safety will keep you from getting hurt )

So basically you completely reassemble the rear on the truck (without welding the pads). let it sit so that its at ride height. find your angle and weld? also will the front need this as well?

Thanks,
David

[SeventyOne]

sounds like you got the rear process down...

You can do your front but the process is a little different - you need to cut the welds around the axle "C" and then rotate them backwards (effectively rotating the pinion up) to set your caster. Most people don't do the front.

[coggonobrien]

gotcha, i suppose its more of a pain with all the steering components

[SeventyOne]

steering components really wouldn't matter. only reason to cut the C's and rotate would be because your front driveshaft angles are too extreme. Being that most people use 4wd on occasion and not fulltime like a rear driveshaft, they live with the vibration caused by the angle on a lifted vehicle to the front axle.

That and making sure you have the correct caster degree.

[MB_70]

GENTLEMEN:

Here is the response I got from Monster Transmissions:

"For the output shaft I would get in touch with a company called Advance Adapters. They would be able to provide you with the correct output shaft for us to install. They can actually drop ship that shaft to us for us to install. Speak to a gentleman named Jim when you call there. As for us installing it, it is $95.00 and we will get you all set-up."

Doc D.
Monster Transmission & Performance
“Your One Stop Powertrain Shop”
Tel: 1-800-708-0087 ext.4487
Web: www.eatmyshift.com

(I am not a transmission guy). This seems to be pretty cheap to have the right part installed from the start. I am only assuming that this would in no way void the warranty, but I didnt ask. I am pretty sure this is the way I am going to do my set up once I get home.

[MB_70]

Coggonobrien,

What crossmemeber / motor mounts are you using for your BIG BLOCK set up?

"I have a feeling that we can both learn from all the mistakes I am going to be making .... " hahahaha

I dont know ANYthing about the 67 - 72 4x4 trucks, but I am assuming that K-10 and K-20 trucks and K-5 blazers are all share the same Engine crossmember, and I am assuming that they are ALL small block and big block compatable?

I have heard of some folks using spacers to gain oil pan clearance and get certain headers to mount up better without as much frame trimming.

Can ANYONE clarify this?

Reccomendations?


MY GOD this is going to be fun !!!!

[coggonobrien]

haha, yea i'm going to learn from you since i'm a couple years from that portion of my build, need to get the body/chassis ready before purchasing the transmission. i'm leaning towards the DIY4X crossmember based on the recomendations here and the fact i can use stock driveshafts. plus a little extra clearance between the firewall and dizzy is always welcome

[my90k5]

Originally Posted by MB_70

LOTS of good info on here with the experience to match. I looked up Monster Transmissions and I will be buying the SS 700R4. Its a great price on a bolt in trans with a warranty. (I feel) you cant go wrong. Does anyone know if the NP 205 compatable output shaft is an option from them? I want to retain the NP 205. I will inquire with Monster.

Someone mentioned a DIY4X crossmember ....

Would this be something I need to mount my 427 engine infront of the 700R4 and keep the transfer in place?

How far can I slide the transfer (aka cheat)?

Sorry for the basic questions, Im "far from home" right now and just trying to piece some components together that will work - and do what I want, without looking at the truck.

Hope to get some responses.

What was the outcome? Did you get your trany? I'm in the same boat looking for options from manual to auto with overdrive.
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