Air Intake, what are you guys using on your swaps?

[1971Stepside]

Kept mine pretty simple. Less than a $100.

[Wgesnerjr]

Originally Posted by Rich84

Is that a kit for a Silverado? How tight is that elbow? I had to remove my upper shroud because there is not enough room with the factory setup. My engine is slid forward to allow room for the A/C in the lower position. D.D sliders almost all the way forward.

It does say fits Silverado. The elbow is tight on one side so you have to be sure you orient it correctly. Here is the pic of it near the fan. I dont know what mounts I have so cant confirm engine placement. I have about an inch clearance between elbow and fan.

[Rich84]

Thanks for the pictures..My fan is in the shroud by an inch or 2. I will have to check that out. It just might fit.

[Wgesnerjr]

I have always been taught that for maximum efficiency, the ideal placement of the fan is half in, half out of the shroud.

[Nodnarb76]

I had to relocate mine to the driver's side, and made my own using 4" aluminum piping.

[NC_John]

For you guys using aluminum piping on your intakes- I learned something from my tuner. I too have a section of aluminum for mine and installed my IAT sensor on it (drilled and installed a bung on the pipe). My guy said that that he has personally seen the aluminum intake pipe act as a heat sink on the sensor on some builds and cause hard/no start problems in the summer heat or with high underhood temps.

I personally haven't had this issue yet with mine but still plan on replacing the aluminum section with some carbon fiber to eliminate the possibility.

[BR3W CITY]

I'm guessing your tuner miiight be referring to heat soaking, but unless your hot lapping its not something thats going to affect most drivers. (its why you'll see wrapped intakes, or like you said, carbon)

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I'm guessing your tuner miiight be referring to heat soaking, but unless your hot lapping its not something thats going to affect most drivers. (its why you'll see wrapped intakes, or like you said, carbon)

Yeah, I meant heat soaking. I'm on a buttload of meds right now following rotator cuff surgery last week.... With our really high ambient temps down here in the summer it could occur with stuff like power tour parading, cars and coffee type of crap, idling through a car show or something like that.

He just said that if it occurred (a hard start problem with a hot engine in the middle of summer), that could be the problem so just be aware.

[lownslw64]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Kept mine pretty simple. Less than a $100.

Were did you buy your intake from? part numbers? i like the simple clean look!

[uxdesigner]

SPECTRE 9900 Cold Air Intake System



I just installed the Kwik A/C compressor mount with a Sanden and everything is fully functional without any clearance issues.

[Blazerowner]

I picked this up. I have a UBI kit for the pipping. They make one that bolts in on either side or both if you remove the battery from the engine bay.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-4372

[1971Stepside]

Were did you buy your intake from? part numbers? i like the simple clean look!

I purchased the Spectre fittings and aluminum elbow from Amazon. Something like $65 for all three parts. I bought the filter at my local parts store for $38.

[skyphix]

This probably won't be super attractive, but for my project cost is more important than aesthetics (i.e. project Ugly but Functional) - Has anyone reused their donor vehicle airbox and piping? Obviously re-configuring it to be drivers side rather than passenger side to avoid battery relocation, though I'm not 100% against relocating the battery.

I've seen one which reused a cadillac airbox with custom piping - since I have a complete donor vehicle, I am hoping to get some ideas as to re-using the pipe that I have from the Yukon, at least to start and get the truck going.

I don't have the Yukon here and my truck is under a foot of snow at the moment, so I am sort of bench racing so that as soon as weather allows, I can hit the ground running.

[mongocanfly]

Theres been several that have used the stock box...I'm not sure youd have much luck trying to swap it to drivers side...its all molded plastic with duct work,fresh air port and all.......I'd move the battery 1st...

[Wgesnerjr]

If you get a battery tray for the drivers side and use the battery cables from the Yukon, the swap is pretty painless.

Once the battery switcheds sides, the original battery tray becomes a great place to mount the Yukon air box. If you already have the Yukon, the cost to switch is a battery tray.

I got a driver's side battery tray when I did this and saved a bunch of cash not rerouting everything. Factory air tube fits but rides on the fan shroud but still useable.

Battery trays are between 12 and 60 dollars at LMC.

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

If you get a battery tray for the drivers side and use the battery cables from the Yukon, the swap is pretty painless.

Once the battery switcheds sides, the original battery tray becomes a great place to mount the Yukon air box. If you already have the Yukon, the cost to switch is a battery tray.

I got a driver's side battery tray when I did this and saved a bunch of cash not rerouting everything. Factory air tube fits but rides on the fan shroud but still useable.

Battery trays are between 12 and 60 dollars at LMC.

Thank you for the feedback guys. I got the yukon for free - it was headed to the junkyard with a sub-50k mile engine and had been meticulously maintained, but the 270k on the frame took its toll in Maine and its rusty behind the wheel wells so rather than junkyard it, I took it and am using it as my donor.

I desperately need to go through the electrical on my truck while the old engine and trans are out as I've got some terrible grounding and when the engine bay gets hot the truck doesnt want to turn over. Doesn't seem to be the starter, seems to be the cable set. I hadn't thought of using the Yukon battery cables (if they're in good shape - cheap enough to replace if not) and had planned on making some but I like the idea of the Yukon parts. That makes the drivers side battery relocation make a lot more sense. I guess I didn't realize there were drivers side battery trays either and wasn't sure how I was going to tackle that.

Since this is an 06 Yukon, it has electric fans that I'll be robbing and using, which was a surprise to me when I popped the hood the first time, so not positive if it will rub there or not but I imagine I can work something out if it does.


Thank you again - all of the ideas in this thread look great, and will be useful later on when the turbo engine is built.

[Rich84]

With electric fans the stock air intake will fit perfectly. My LQ4 is slid forward almost 2" and there is still plenty of room.

[ls1nova71]

[QUOTE=skyphix;8474401]This probably won't be super attractive, but for my project cost is more important than aesthetics (i.e. project Ugly but Functional) - Has anyone reused their donor vehicle airbox and piping? Obviously re-configuring it to be drivers side rather than passenger side to avoid battery relocation, though I'm not 100% against relocating the battery.
QUOTE]

I don't think the original intake is bad looking at all, in fact I prefer them to the generic chrome tube and open element air filters, but I'm probably in the minority on that.

[skyphix]

Thanks guys - now that I've decided to relocate the battery I agree, the stock airbox will look good. I was thinking with it flipped to the drivers side, hacked up and patched back together it might be kind of ugly. This will definitely be a most weather driver (everything except when there is salt on the road,) including a reasonable amount of dirt roads, and my daily so the box will be nice extra protection to keep debris and stuff out.

Turbo engine build is just getting tested in the truck (2020) until the race car is purchased and ready for it, but I'll do something different for that time period.

[LeesTruk]

Sky, this is what a stock set-up would look like in your truck. I found an aux. battery tray, and mounted it for the battery, and used the original tray for the filter housing

[skyphix]

Thanks Lee! It looks like the aux battery tray is pretty inexpensive (I found this one for $30 http://www.usa1industries.com/1973-8...y-support.html), and if I understand correctly, you left the passenger side battery tray in as a support for the air box. It looks nice and tidy that way. I like it.

I saw a video where someone drilled out the spot welds on the battery tray support and just rotated the support around so it would work on the left hand side - I guess thats another option for me if I really get cheap.

[cebra]

[quote=ls1nova71;8475050]

Originally Posted by skyphix

This probably won't be super attractive, but for my project cost is more important than aesthetics (i.e. project Ugly but Functional) - Has anyone reused their donor vehicle airbox and piping? Obviously re-configuring it to be drivers side rather than passenger side to avoid battery relocation, though I'm not 100% against relocating the battery.
QUOTE]

I don't think the original intake is bad looking at all, in fact I prefer them to the generic chrome tube and open element air filters, but I'm probably in the minority on that.

I hate to be a copycat but I am duplicating this method with your battery tray cut and flip, stock airbox, stock junction block/power cable, and stock upper radiator hose. I want my truck to appear as stock as possible under the hood.

[skyphix]

[quote=cebra;8476610]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

I hate to be a copycat but I am duplicating this method with your battery tray cut and flip, stock airbox, stock junction block/power cable, and stock upper radiator hose. I want my truck to appear as stock as possible under the hood.

In that case, check out this video! This is where I got the idea of reusing my existing battery tray. I did decide to pick up an aux one made for the drivers side so I could use the old battery tray as a resting place for the air box, since its only $30.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJCICMEhBKc

[Wgesnerjr]

I did the same. I also used the Tahoe's fuse box which is in the place of the 85 washer fluid bottle. Got a washer jug from a Buick LeSabre and mounted it under the passenger tray. Holds a gallon of fluid and just had to extend wires and hoses.

[beaterku]

I fabbed up one from a mandrel bend. I am still waiting on another 3.75 to 4" couple to mount the MAF sensor. I also need to fab a bracket to attached it to the radiator mount so it doesn't flop around.

Link to parts for cold air intake:

4" mandrel u-bend: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-623036
7" cone filter: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-239630
3.75" to 4" coupler with t-bolts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-75-to-4-S...72.m2749.l2649
4" straight coupler with t-bolts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-STRAI...72.m2749.l2649
4" hump coupler with t-bolts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/102mm-4-inc...72.m2749.l2649