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Old 10-14-2013, 12:08 PM   #26
71Dragtruck
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Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor?

I made it down once before in like 2009 or 10 can't remember, then hadent raced my truck for 3 years but made it out to Saskatoon again this year. I do hope to make it down there again next year, a few of the guys I race with usually make it down at least once a year.

One thing I think that's going to maybe give me problems is getting the steering shaft routed between my headers and frame, will likely have to notch the frame and then strengthen it again some how, that and was going to go with a direct replacement IDIDIT column but have to call them to get a length on it as they don't list the specs and I think a shorter one will make the steering shaft routing easier.
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Old 10-14-2013, 02:00 PM   #27
drag80
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Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor?

talk to justin about the column too, he can probably get that as well. I'm doing an LS motor in mine and he was telling me he can supply me with a bunch of parts for the steering, etc.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:50 PM   #28
71Dragtruck
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Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Dragtruck View Post
1.5" a side, and to mainly keep the geometry correct plus center the wheel more in the wheelwell, most of the mustang II IFS kits I looked at are like this, they are all based off of specs that the original front end was designed around, and if changed throw out all the numbers. My new rims are going to be narrower but have less backspace so I'll only loose 1" a side so won't really be that noticable.

Just wanted to update the width, I guess 1.5 a side is if you had factory drum brakes, only 3/4" a side for factory disc, so for me that is better as I didn't want it narrowed any so less is better.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:41 AM   #29
moggey01
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Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor?

Nathans kit is all c10 components . I used his dropmember coil over pro touring kit. I am using a big block with an aluminum oil pan. The pan was hitting the rac so the inner truss ans engine mounts were changed. My shocks were built for this kit and the length Nate wanted. They are too long on my truck for some reason. I am going to tie the upper shock mount into the roll bar when I get to thst point.The c10 stuff is heavier than the mustang 2 stuff. I think Nates stuff is real stout as far as strength is concerned. There is room to lighten the stuff also.
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