'60-'66 Body On A '73-'87 Frame

[1976gmc20]

I like the height on the yellow C-10 just fine

[61K10]

Funny--It looks like a tk and most don't like it. Being old i guess i like a tk that look like a tk lol! Slammed tks are fine also, and a lot of work to build. A little lower in the front and it would look stock. Just build them guy's & gal's.

[LostMy65]

I don't think it's so much if it'll look okay, but more so - what's the point?
There's no advantage over just using the correct frame.

[Captainfab]

Exactly!

A lot of work for no real gain. In fact IMO the trailing arms and coil springs ride nicer than the '73+ leaf springs.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I don't think it's so much if it'll look okay, but more so - what's the point?
There's no advantage over just using the correct frame.

[imhighlander]

Bumping a bit of an old thread. I have a very rusty 1973 K20 that I'm thinking of body-swapping to a 60-66 or 67-72 body on the 73 frame. My frame is fine and I just need the front half (cab, fenders, doors, etc.). It's a flatbed and I will keep it that way. I'd appreciate any additional links or advice from the esteemed veterans here.

[Captainfab]

Do you have the means to fabricate the cab mounts on the frame? What is the law in Colorado regarding a frame and body swap. IE the frame and body having a different VIN.

[66Z71]

Here is mine, it is a '62 body on a '73 frame. I cut the '62 cab mounts off the original frame, and re-used them on the new one. I also cut the front few inches of the frame rails off and spliced them into the '73. The front bumper wouldn't fit correctly on the new frame. The biggest headache is the frame rails kick up under the back of the cab, so you need to raise the cab, or channel the back of it to sit over the frame rails.
In the end it seemed like an easy way to get disk brakes, power steering, and newer parts.



There are some pictures in this post that show the bottom of the cab.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=48

[imhighlander]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Do you have the means to fabricate the cab mounts on the frame? What is the law in Colorado regarding a frame and body swap. IE the frame and body having a different VIN.

Good questions, for which I currently have no answers. I strongly suspect there is a way around those issues, but I have to figure them out. I'm not remotely concerned about the vehicle's value as an original; the amount of skin cancer eating the K20 is likely beyond repair. I do need to check out how to reconcile an earlier cab and its VIN with that of the 73 frame.

Any hints from those have gone before will be greatly appreciated. I do have the means to fabricate the cab mounts, though I don't really know what that entails until I know the respective positions of the 73 cab mounts and those of the earlier model. I do think I like the 60-66 body a little better, especially the GMCs. Do any of the particular model years hold up better from a rust perspective? Are 60-66 better/worse than 67-72?

[imhighlander]

Originally Posted by 66Z71

Here is mine, it is a '62 body on a '73 frame. I cut the '62 cab mounts off the original frame, and re-used them on the new one. I also cut the front few inches of the frame rails off and spliced them into the '73. The front bumper wouldn't fit correctly on the new frame. The biggest headache is the frame rails kick up under the back of the cab, so you need to raise the cab, or channel the back of it to sit over the frame rails.
In the end it seemed like an easy way to get disk brakes, power steering, and newer parts.



There are some pictures in this post that show the bottom of the cab.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=48

Excellent info! Thanks.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by imhighlander

Good questions, for which I currently have no answers. I strongly suspect there is a way around those issues, but I have to figure them out. I'm not remotely concerned about the vehicle's value as an original; the amount of skin cancer eating the K20 is likely beyond repair. I do need to check out how to reconcile an earlier cab and its VIN with that of the 73 frame.

Any hints from those have gone before will be greatly appreciated. I do have the means to fabricate the cab mounts, though I don't really know what that entails until I know the respective positions of the 73 cab mounts and those of the earlier model. I do think I like the 60-66 body a little better, especially the GMCs. Do any of the particular model years hold up better from a rust perspective? Are 60-66 better/worse than 67-72?

this should help you. there is a section under Colorado that explains it
http://www.semasan.com/page.asp?cont...olbox&g=SEMAGA
ron

[karlbenz]

Here is my 64 on a 84 k10 chassis. pretty simple straight forward swap on a 4x4 as long as you want a 3" body lift and go with a flatbed due to frame length difference

[imhighlander]

Originally Posted by karlbenz

Here is my 64 on a 84 k10 chassis. pretty simple straight forward swap on a 4x4 as long as you want a 3" body lift and go with a flatbed due to frame length difference

That's my story anyway. Truck already has a flatbed and I'll be keeping it that way. With effectively the 3" body lift, what other issues will I run into? Shift linkage issue (4-speed manual on floor)? T-case shift lever (4wd)? Steering linkage issue? Others?

Thanks. Your rig is pretty much what I have in mind. (But with a plow on the front.)

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by imhighlander

That's my story anyway. Truck already has a flatbed and I'll be keeping it that way. With effectively the 3" body lift, what other issues will I run into? Shift linkage issue (4-speed manual on floor)? T-case shift lever (4wd)? Steering linkage issue? Others?

Thanks. Your rig is pretty much what I have in mind. (But with a plow on the front.)

not sure bout the 4 speed. mine currently has a 700r4 with a cable. Planning on a nv4500 soon. but thats a top loader so it won't be much of a concern for me. Trans case shifter worked out fine.
I ditched the stock cooling fan for electric
My steering column was broke up inside so I ended up putting a van column in. That is something else for you to consider

[karlbenz]

I also used the cab mounts from the 64 frame and welded them on the 84 frame

[karlbenz]

Couple newer pics

[imhighlander]

Originally Posted by karlbenz

Couple newer pics

Looks good. Thx for all the info. I'll likely PM you when I ultimately get this underway. Lots of other things standing in line ahead of the swap. 😐
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[Chevyboy02]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

This question is asked quite frequently, and I always try and give my opinion on the subject since I have done this once, about 20 years ago. At the time I was involved in building a truck which consisted of a '62 body onto a '74 SWB chassis, I did not think about taking pics to document the process. This truck has remained in this local area, but I just have never seemed to be able to get any better pics. That is until this last June at our local car show. I just haven't been able to find the time to post these pics until now.

As you can see, the stance of the truck is a bit high. It sits about like a stock K10. I don't remember for sure, but I believe this truck is running 31/10.50-15's. Some guys seem to like it, and others don't. While I'm not into the whole 'laying frame/rockers' thing, I do prefer a lower stance than what this type of conversion provides. There is certainly a way to do this conversion and have a lower stance, by channeling the body over the frame. It is my opinion that this is just more work than is necessary. As always I will recommend keeping your existing frame if at all possible, and just upgrading the suspension with the '73-'87 parts.

Anyway, on to the pics. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words.......

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[Chevyboy02]

I'm looking to do the same swap onto a k10 frame. I have taken the mounts off the 66 frame and have them ready to bolt onto the 83 k10 frame. But I was wondering if you had the measurements for the height off the frame of the radiator support mounts in front. And we're there any specific issues you ran into when doing the swap that I need to watch out for?
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[66Z71]

The rear of the cab is the first spot that will hit the new frame. I would set the cab on the frame with some 2x4's on the frame to start with, and adjust from there.

Also, save the front foot of the old frame. The bumper bolts directly to it, and you can weld it to the new frame. (Same with the rear bumper if your going to use that too)

[Captainfab]

If this question is directed to me, no I do not have any measurements. This is not my truck. I helped build that truck for someone else over 25 years ago. The issues I ran into is that it is a lot of work and a PITA.

Originally Posted by Chevyboy02

I'm looking to do the same swap onto a k10 frame. I have taken the mounts off the 66 frame and have them ready to bolt onto the 83 k10 frame. But I was wondering if you had the measurements for the height off the frame of the radiator support mounts in front. And we're there any specific issues you ran into when doing the swap that I need to watch out for?
Posted via Mobile Device

[66 Burban]

This was my 2 owner 69,xxx mile 63 short fleet custom on a 84 K10 frame. I sold it about 8 months ago to a guy in Canada.

[rvrfoot]

I dont see nothing wrong with that.

[padresag]

"Back of the 73+ Frame sits at least 3 inches higher than the 60-66 frame. " that would make it look like the red one to me
ron

[LostMy65]

The point we keep leading back to is; there is no point in using the newer frames. Just use the original frame. There is nothing, absolutely nothing to gain using the newer frames.
If anything, it's bass ackwards to not use the original frame.
Just bolt up the newer crossmember, and be done with it.
Not to mention we should keep the matching VIN's.

[Clrussell]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

The point we keep leading back to is; there is no point in using the newer frames. Just use the original frame. There is nothing, absolutely nothing to gain using the newer frames.
If anything, it's bass ackwards to not use the original frame.
Just bolt up the newer crossmember, and be done with it.
Not to mention we should keep the matching VIN's.

What about in the case of an ls swap into a 61? I'm still researching it all