6 lug to 5lug or not?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by coontz74

Thanks SCOTI.. never really thought about it in that way. I always have been one to go for a different look when customizing my trucks BUT, it has been on newer trucks as well so I guess that is where my problems begin?


I don't have anything against the torque thrust wheels, I actually think they look awesome on our trucks, but EVERYBODY has them...I guess you have made me understand why now...

Guess I'll quit bucking the norm and look for a more traditional style thrust wheel.

Is it possible to use the same 4 wheels with the same BS and offset on all 4 corners or do I need to order a split set with 2 different offsets and BS? Seems most people have 2 different specs for front and rear and I also assume this is for a reason as well?

Thanks for letting me drive you guys crazy with questions, I just don't know what I'm doing....

You can run the same size & offset front & rear, but the track width is slightly wider in the front when doing so. Most guys opt for the 'staggerd' sizing to allow for slightly more (wider) tire out back & even out the track width @ the same time. Typically, adding 1.5" makes things square so if you have 8" wheels in the front, 9.5's in the rear etc....

As far as wheel choice, remember it's your truck so you have to like what you're spending your money on. Get what you want but just keep in mind why those 5-spoke/thrust style wheels are so popular.

[coontz74]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You can run the same size & offset front & rear, but the track width is slightly wider in the front when doing so. Most guys opt for the 'staggerd' sizing to allow for slightly more (wider) tire out back & even out the track width @ the same time. Typically, adding 1.5" makes things square so if you have 8" wheels in the front, 9.5's in the rear etc....

As far as wheel choice, remember it's your truck so you have to like what you're spending your money on. Get what you want but just keep in mind why those 5-spoke/thrust style wheels are so popular.

Valid point on track width..I didn't know that, but makes absolute sense!! Thanks!!

Never thought I would have this much of a headache picking wheels and tires..

Wait till the paint and body guys get a hold of me..haha

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by coontz74

Valid point on track width..I didn't know that, but makes absolute sense!! Thanks!!

Never thought I would have this much of a headache picking wheels and tires..

Wait till the paint and body guys get a hold of me..haha

No kidding. But, it's considering all the various factors that make a visual difference when throwing similar parts @ a truck. The right back-space & tire sizes can make all the difference vs. just throwing anything that will fit on there. Same thing w/paint.... classic paint schemes will always be in style. Trendy paint schemes will appear dated @ some point in time.

[72BlckButy]

And just to add to the confusion....

Think out each upgrade you plan on doing. For instance, do you plan to leave your truck with a static drop? If so, then order the wheels accordind to the static drop. However, if you "might" bag your truck in the future, IMO the BS could/would be different.

Or think about this... lowering the truck lower than 2" up front will require a drop spindle. Drop spindles will result in adding disc brakes. Lowering the truck with a 5-6" drop in the rear will more than likely result in needing new exhaust. New exhaust may cause the need for new headers/mufflers. While you're doing the drop do you want to add a c-notch for added suspension travel? If so... and the list goes on and on.

Think out each move/purchase as it will save you money in the long run.

[coontz74]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

No kidding. But, it's considering all the various factors that make a visual difference when throwing similar parts @ a truck. The right back-space & tire sizes can make all the difference vs. just throwing anything that will fit on there. Same thing w/paint.... classic paint schemes will always be in style. Trendy paint schemes will appear dated @ some point in time.

You're absolutely right and I guess that's why I search so much and ask all the crazy questions to you guys. I don't have the funds to do it twice or three times so I want to make sure I do it right the first time.

I realize the right wheels and tires will make or 'BREAK' my truck. I'm just so overwhelmed and have sooo many questions that I confuse myself and others too I'm sure.

I need to go back to the KISS method and quit making a mountain out of a mole hill. I have so much to learn and patience has never been my friend.

I do appreciate all the help from you, Nate and lolife. I have learned a lot and will continue to do so as long as you guys will let me...

[coontz74]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

And just to add to the confusion....

Think out each upgrade you plan on doing. For instance, do you plan to leave your truck with a static drop? If so, then order the wheels accordind to the static drop. However, if you "might" bag your truck in the future, IMO the BS could/would be different.

Or think about this... lowering the truck lower than 2" up front will require a drop spindle. Drop spindles will result in adding disc brakes. Lowering the truck with a 5-6" drop in the rear will more than likely result in needing new exhaust. New exhaust may cause the need for new headers/mufflers. While you're doing the drop do you want to add a c-notch for added suspension travel? If so... and the list goes on and on.

Think out each move/purchase as it will save you money in the long run.

It's funny you mention the list goes on and on and on because I was realizing that everyday I chat with you guys...

After thinking on it, just like you mentioned here, I'm going with a 2/4 drop to hopefully eliminate the possibility for all those other things you mentioned?

I want disc brakes and I was set on a 4 wheel conversion but now I'm going with just fronts and rebuild the existing drums for the back. So by that, I'd say a spindle for the front since I'm doing disc's anyway with new stock springs and a 4" spring in back.
Still can't decide on 5 lug or leave it 6 since I'm keeping the drums in the back hence the recent issue of finding a wheel...

I don't know if I need to pick the wheel and tire and work the suspension to fit that or get the stance and HOPE to find a wheel and tire that I would like to fit the stance?? Decisions, decisions, decisions... they are almost as long as the list that keeps going..haha

Thanks for your input and advice. I really appreciate it and hope I didn't wear out my welcome?

[72BlckButy]

Welll... We weren't going to say anything so since you brought it up... Haha just kidding. That's what this site is all about.

IMO I would setup the suspension prior to purchasing wheels. For instance let's say you order a set of wheels for a 2/4 drop and not a week after purchasing the wheels a board member sells a 4.5/6" drop for half price. Well you just ordered wheels for a 2/4 drop.

Take you time and plan as there is no rush, you just don't want to end up with a truck on stands because you didn't plan for the need for different wheels.
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[kieth]

there have been a lot of good suggestions on how you should proceed with wheels , suspension, etc.....I am still in the process of changing my stance, suspension, shocks, air bags, sway bars, and panhard rod. All of these things affect each other so go with things that can allow change inexpensively. I started out with 15" rallyes 5 x 5 lug pattern, ran into a deal one day on 17" Cragers , fell in love and so far have been lucky that the wheels fit my gmc. I messed up though not realizing the lug patter was 5 x 4.75" not 5 x 5. had to buy new front disc brake rotors and drill out the rear axle hubs for 5 x 4.75 (fortunately for me I am using these items on another build so the 5 x 5 stuff has not gone to waste........

1. Make up you mind on a theme for your truck, it is what determines wheels, tires, lug patterns, etc. Clearances are critical I am running 265 x 70 rear tires with 17 x 9 rear wheels (not sure of the back spacing but they barely clear in the fender well inside and outside..... fronts are 255 x 65 17 same width as the rears but the offset is different (thank goodness these wheels came off a 67 nova) this lack of offset in the front has worked out well since I used a 91 burb front crossmember and brakes which set the wheels out 1.5" per side in the front.

2. Air bags in the rear (I did this so I could adjust my stance up or down in the rear easily cost about $160.00) this has been a really good thing to have since I did not know exactly how my truck stance was going to be. as I have stumbled through this process I have since added 2.5" drop spindless up front, then this led to adding 2" spacer blocks on the rear of my trailing arm suspension-------


Wow this is really getting long winded isn't it----------here are a few of the things I would do to allow one to get their truck like they want it.

step 1: Wheels and tires: Go inexpensive factory truck rallyes (to start with) get the widest ones for the rear to balance out your stance and a narrower set for the front, keep the tire sizes the same and no bigger than a 235/70/15. These are inexpensive and will keep you from having trouble with clearance issues.................... you could go with 6 lug blazer wheels since the are the widest and have the most offset (get 2 for the rear)

on the front use 5 lug rallyes with less offset---since you will be using hubcaps or center covers the difference in lug pattern will not make much difference......

step 2 install a set of Firestone 9000 series tapered air bags---these are inexpensive and will allow you to adjust the ride height easily....(instead of cutting coil springs)


Step 3 after you are able to see your truck on its feet, then you can decide to go lower or keep it the same. If you want it lower then add front drop spindles again you can adjust the stance with the rear bags....

4. If you want to go lower in the rear after the spindles add 2" lowering blocks to the trailing arm suspension....

5. lower still in the front add air bags to it.....

6. Ride now gets a little dicey and you need more clearance for the rear suspension.....add a notch....

7. now you can measure the amount of clearance your truck has from the face of the hub to the fender well, how much is available at ride height for the top of the tire and how much is available from the face of the hub to the inside of the fender well front and rear...........

8. Now you can decide on final tire and wheel size, if you want to go 5 lug spoke all around then just drill out the rear axle hub for 5 x 5 and put your new wheels and tires on.................lots of changes but.....you were able to drive your truck as you did it and end up with what you wanted......in a logical step by step manner.............have fun.......Kieth

ps I did my truck just the opposite of this and it has cost me money...and time.....because I bought my fancy wheels and tires before I knew how they would work with my truck, I think picking wheels and tires should be left until the end (unless you are going pro street) Hope this helps you just a little Kieth JMO

[coontz74]

Originally Posted by kieth

there have been a lot of good suggestions on how you should proceed with wheels , suspension, etc.....I am still in the process of changing my stance, suspension, shocks, air bags, sway bars, and panhard rod. All of these things affect each other so go with things that can allow change inexpensively. I started out with 15" rallyes 5 x 5 lug pattern, ran into a deal one day on 17" Cragers , fell in love and so far have been lucky that the wheels fit my gmc. I messed up though not realizing the lug patter was 5 x 4.75" not 5 x 5. had to buy new front disc brake rotors and drill out the rear axle hubs for 5 x 4.75 (fortunately for me I am using these items on another build so the 5 x 5 stuff has not gone to waste........

1. Make up you mind on a theme for your truck, it is what determines wheels, tires, lug patterns, etc. Clearances are critical I am running 265 x 70 rear tires with 17 x 9 rear wheels (not sure of the back spacing but they barely clear in the fender well inside and outside..... fronts are 255 x 65 17 same width as the rears but the offset is different (thank goodness these wheels came off a 67 nova) this lack of offset in the front has worked out well since I used a 91 burb front crossmember and brakes which set the wheels out 1.5" per side in the front.

2. Air bags in the rear (I did this so I could adjust my stance up or down in the rear easily cost about $160.00) this has been a really good thing to have since I did not know exactly how my truck stance was going to be. as I have stumbled through this process I have since added 2.5" drop spindless up front, then this led to adding 2" spacer blocks on the rear of my trailing arm suspension-------


Wow this is really getting long winded isn't it----------here are a few of the things I would do to allow one to get their truck like they want it.

step 1: Wheels and tires: Go inexpensive factory truck rallyes (to start with) get the widest ones for the rear to balance out your stance and a narrower set for the front, keep the tire sizes the same and no bigger than a 235/70/15. These are inexpensive and will keep you from having trouble with clearance issues.................... you could go with 6 lug blazer wheels since the are the widest and have the most offset (get 2 for the rear)

on the front use 5 lug rallyes with less offset---since you will be using hubcaps or center covers the difference in lug pattern will not make much difference......

step 2 install a set of Firestone 9000 series tapered air bags---these are inexpensive and will allow you to adjust the ride height easily....(instead of cutting coil springs)


Step 3 after you are able to see your truck on its feet, then you can decide to go lower or keep it the same. If you want it lower then add front drop spindles again you can adjust the stance with the rear bags....

4. If you want to go lower in the rear after the spindles add 2" lowering blocks to the trailing arm suspension....

5. lower still in the front add air bags to it.....

6. Ride now gets a little dicey and you need more clearance for the rear suspension.....add a notch....

7. now you can measure the amount of clearance your truck has from the face of the hub to the fender well, how much is available at ride height for the top of the tire and how much is available from the face of the hub to the inside of the fender well front and rear...........

8. Now you can decide on final tire and wheel size, if you want to go 5 lug spoke all around then just drill out the rear axle hub for 5 x 5 and put your new wheels and tires on.................lots of changes but.....you were able to drive your truck as you did it and end up with what you wanted......in a logical step by step manner.............have fun.......Kieth

ps I did my truck just the opposite of this and it has cost me money...and time.....because I bought my fancy wheels and tires before I knew how they would work with my truck, I think picking wheels and tires should be left until the end (unless you are going pro street) Hope this helps you just a little Kieth JMO

Great ideas Keith!! You know, I thought about getting the stance the way I want and just put my stock wheels back on it to get an accurate tire and wheel size. At least I could drive it that way until I found THE wheel and tire combo?

Great write up and appreciate you sharing your experience as it has saved me some of the same issues I'm sure!!

[coontz74]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Welll... We weren't going to say anything so since you brought it up... Haha just kidding. That's what this site is all about.

IMO I would setup the suspension prior to purchasing wheels. For instance let's say you order a set of wheels for a 2/4 drop and not a week after purchasing the wheels a board member sells a 4.5/6" drop for half price. Well you just ordered wheels for a 2/4 drop.

Take you time and plan as there is no rush, you just don't want to end up with a truck on stands because you didn't plan for the need for different wheels.
Posted via Mobile Device

Good points Nate.. I think I'll keep my eyes out for a drop kit of sorts and see what plays out from there.

Thanks for putting up with me as well...