cage question

[kpeztruck]

Mine was certified to 8.50 without the connectors to the frame, but would not certify to 7.50 without it. Again, as stated by others, an NHRA/SFI spec manual will be your best friend, followed closely by someone that has had to deal with the person that performs the inspections, and certifies the chassis. You really want to have everything in order, before going to have certified, and by all means, don't argue with the chassis cert guy. Just ask questions and comply, as he will be most likely the only person in your area, and NHRA does not care! I will try to post the photos soon, I have to get over to the shop to take some. Paul Baxter

[prostreet1967]

cool appreciate it

[raceman6135]

Further to Paul's excellent points, don't be afraid to contact your division's Tech Director during the build, and e-mail photos to him/her with questions.

Be polite and respectful of their time, and you'll find that they're quite helpful. After all, they are just trying to make things safe for everyone.

[kpeztruck]

Originally Posted by bcdeutsch731

I would like to see that if you could get some pictures.
Brett

Here are some long awaited photos of my cage work. Don't hate on me for paint wearing thin on my cage in places. I had no idea the paint looked that bad, until I looked at the photos. Looks like I have some touch up to do come spring.
The first photo is self explanatory, but you can see the 2x3 sank into the floor just inside of the rocker.
The second photo just shows that the cage goes through the dash, and the 2x3 extends far enough forward to connect the front of the cage to.
The third shows the 2x3 just under the carpet, with weld beads to the floor.
The fourth shows the 2x3 from under the truck, here you can see it set into the cross cab braces, and the forward round tube that connects the 2x3 to the outside of the frame, even with the trans crossmember.
Finally the fifth shows the round tube that connects the inside of the frame together at the rear of thw cab.
Please note: the trans crossmember is able to be bolted in, and considered part of the structure, connecting the frame together at the front. I hope this is helpfull.
Paul

[Super73]

Paul,

I am assuming the 2x4 allowed you to remove the bar that normally runs from the main hoop to the bottom of the A-pillar? It does open the bottom up a bit.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by kpeztruck

Here are some long awaited photos of my cage work. Don't hate on me for paint wearing thin on my cage in places. I had no idea the paint looked that bad, until I looked at the photos. Looks like I have some touch up to do come spring...
Paul

If it helps, This is what I did...I fabricated a couple of door bar guards from sheet aluminum. I also got tired of touching up the paint in the same area.

[kpeztruck]

Super73, I am not sure I follow you on this one. Are you talking about the bar from the main hoop that runs forward and down the a-pillar? If so, it is still there, but runs through the top edge of the dash, behind the dash, and down to the 2x3. The crossdash bar is behind the dash even with the speedo/tach holes in my bezel. Hope this helps, if not, we can try again. I may not understand what you are asking. I'm kinda thick headed at times. Lol Paul
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[hotrod 80]

Originally Posted by vin63

If it helps, This is what I did...I fabricated a couple of door bar guards from sheet aluminum. I also got tired of touching up the paint in the same area.

I have also heard people taping this are off and rolling or spraying auto parts store bed liner or trimming carbon fiber stickers to cover entry scuffs .

[kpeztruck]

Originally Posted by vin63

If it helps, This is what I did...I fabricated a couple of door bar guards from sheet aluminum. I also got tired of touching up the paint in the same area.

I have meant to do just this for some time. I believe I will touch it up, then add the scuff guards in that area. I had fought to get the truck to hook the way it does, that details like this slipped under the radar. I hope to rewire my truck with either Speedwire, or Spaghetti Menders systems, add a Racepak data logger, and tidy up these details during this year. Thanks, Paul Baxter

[Super73]

Paul,

Here is what I am talking about. See the bar that runs below the X in my door are, you don't have that in yours. Did the 2x4 in the rocker allow you to keep that out?

The other 2 pics are just another angle on it.

[kpeztruck]

Ok, I get it now. Just a little dense here at times. lol Yes, the 2x3 took the blace of the lower bar you are referring to. When it was inspected previously, and only certified to 8.50, the chassis inspector said that all I needed was the tubing from the inside of the 2x3, to the frame on both sides, and the trans crossmember had to be round tubing,and another round tube between the frame rails at the rear. You can see the rear in one of my photos. I can't wait to see yours completed. Too bad we live on opposite sides of the country, we would have to meet at a track otherwise. The work is looking great. Paul

[bigboybodry]

I had a 7.50 roll cage put in my car in KY. at k&bracecars and would have passed with a 25.3 certification there with the chassis guy there looking at the car telling us what to do. I brought the car back to MS. to find out it needed 9 more bars to pass my certification guy here. its best to contact the chassis guy in your area before/during the install.

I like the carbon fiber bar wrap but it is pricey

I will be adding a roll cage one day to the old truck so thanks for the great input!

[kpeztruck]

Originally Posted by bigboybodry

I had a 7.50 roll cage put in my car in KY. at k&bracecars and would have passed with a 25.3 certification there with the chassis guy there looking at the car telling us what to do. I brought the car back to MS. to find out it needed 9 more bars to pass my certification guy here. its best to contact the chassis guy in your area before/during the install.

I like the carbon fiber bar wrap but it is pricey

I will be adding a roll cage one day to the old truck so thanks for the great input!

I could not agree with you more. First line is the chassis specification manual, second is to have the chassis inspector on speed dial. Again, i can not stress enough, be nice...someone cusssed out the only one in this area, and he made their life miserable. I do not agree with that line of thinking, if it has all the bars nesc. according to the manual, it should pass. The tech guys have way too much authority to make your life miserable without just cause. Paul

[Super73]

Paul,

I am afraid that if we met at the track I would have to ask for a little space

[kpeztruck]

Originally Posted by Super73

Paul,

I am afraid that if we met at the track I would have to ask for a little space

I can give a little space. But I will be cautious on how much. I have a feeling when you get yours lined out, it will be quicker than expected. I can not wait until I test again. I covered mine up for the winter last night. Paul