HELP! First truck, need to be back on the road

[steelhorse]

Nice truck and a 4wd to boot.

[Ol Blue K20]

Welcome frome Nor Cal. You said it was a C10 but it's a K10, I like it

[Yellow72C10]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Welcome frome Nor Cal. You said it was a C10 but it's a K10, I like it

What is the differnce? Sorry for the dumb questions haha
Posted via Mobile Device

[darush01]

Another way ive checked for spark is pull a plug wire off and put it near the plug and have someone crank it if no spark move back to the coil wire and check another plug to make sure its not a bad wire, not saying this is the best way its jist how ive done it
Posted via Mobile Device

[BlackedOut67shorty]

I did that with my s10 and i managed to get shocked lol. Funny thing was even though it gave spark it didnt give enough. The cap was shot and to think i didnt even think about the cap Iassumed it was all good since it gave spark. Just another lesson learned

[Yellow72C10]

Sorry for the late responses. Getting on it next weekend. Friend came and looked at it, said it may have a cracked block. So does that mean new 350?
Posted via Mobile Device

[67swb72klb]

k=4 wheel drive
nice truck wellcome to the board

[Scott>72-GMC]

C 10 c20 2wd ks are 4x4
Posted via Mobile Device

[Yellow72C10]

Ahh okay. I knew it was 4wd, but I didn't know what k10 meant. Cool. How can I put it in 4wd? Btw I got it driving last weeken for the first time in a couple years. Has no brakes haha, the neighbors mailbox told me that.
Posted via Mobile Device

[doubleb's69]

Originally Posted by Yellow72C10

Ahh okay. I knew it was 4wd, but I didn't know what k10 meant. Cool. How can I put it in 4wd? Btw I got it driving last weeken for the first time in a couple years. Has no brakes haha, the neighbors mailbox told me that.
Posted via Mobile Device

Turn your lockouts on your front axle to "lock" and pull the transfercase shifter back to 4H. Now you should be in four wheel drive unless you do not have a front driveshaft. I'm guessing if you had it running and driving that the block isn't cracked.

[Yellow72C10]

He said its a hairline crack? He might just be fn with me....I hope he is. I appreciate the answers and quick responses!
Posted via Mobile Device

[doubleb's69]

Here is the original 4wd drive sticker from a 70 Jimmy ( at least that is what the glove box door is off of ) but this will help as far as visually show you which way to shift the transfercase lever in case you are missing you shift knob. Yours will shift the same way.

[Yellow72C10]

Thanks for the picture. My glovebox was taken over by rats years back and not much survives in there haha. The truck say in the barn for around 15 years and never cranked or anything. Rat haven in there
Posted via Mobile Device

[Yellow72C10]

Okay so it's time for brakes. Can I just bleed them and be good for now? Or should I do more?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Scott>72-GMC]

Need to probly check your pads see what you have I would replace better safe then sorry
Posted via Mobile Device

[Yellow72C10]

okay, what should i look for on them that says they need replacing?? and thanks for the quick responses!

[Scott>72-GMC]

72 should have disk front brakes. Check the pads make sure they aren't wore down ( very thin). They do have wear marks on them if u remove them to see. Check the rotar for gouges deep scrapping. Rust isn't that good either. Drums on the back. Will be a pain there is more work involved in replacing them and getting into can be a pain hammer usually involved. Ill let someone els chime in there since I'm no expert there but same thing check pads
Posted via Mobile Device

[Yellow72C10]

okay, ill do that and get back to yall. and where are the bleeders for the brakes? i know there is four of them, and should i do them in a certain order or all at once?

[Scott>72-GMC]

Back side of each wheel I believe
Posted via Mobile Device

[Yellow72C10]

alright thanks! i appreciate the help

[Yellow72C10]

one more, the differential. its got a 14 bolt under it. how cani change the fluid, and what weight? i read somewheres the 90k was the way to go?

[slikside]

Originally Posted by Yellow72C10

one more, the differential. its got a 14 bolt under it. how cani change the fluid, and what weight? i read somewheres the 90k was the way to go?

Never done a 14 bolt before, but I imagine you do it the same as a 12. You have to pull that diff cover to drain it. All 14 bolts come out. You will need to scrape all of the old gasket off of the cover and what remains on the casing. Get a new gasket and some RTV, put RTV on the casing and cover and sandwich the gasket in between. Replace cover....do not over tighten these bolts, you can bend the flange, and it wont seal right afterward. About 22lbs of torque IIRC.

90 wt. oil about right. Look around the top portion of differential hub for a removable plug. This is where you fill it from. Fill until it just starts to run out of the same hole. Replace plug. Done. (about 2qts, maybe more for 14 bolt)

Course, depending on rear wheel seals, and pinion seal, you may have leakage. If you have oily, tacky wetness in your rear brake backing plate and such, your rear seals are leaking (pull the drum and look at the whole brake assembly). Comes from the same 90wt. that is lubing the rear end. It lubes the rear wheel bearings as well.

Best of luck, and keep ius posted! That is a Legacy truck you have there! I'm sure your GrandDad is smiling down on you for saving that rig! Congrats!

[Yellow72C10]

Originally Posted by slikside

Never done a 14 bolt before, but I imagine you do it the same as a 12. You have to pull that diff cover to drain it. All 14 bolts come out. You will need to scrape all of the old gasket off of the cover and what remains on the casing. Get a new gasket and some RTV, put RTV on the casing and cover and sandwich the gasket in between. Replace cover....do not over tighten these bolts, you can bend the flange, and it wont seal right afterward. About 22lbs of torque IIRC.

90 wt. oil about right. Look around the top portion of differential hub for a removable plug. This is where you fill it from. Fill until it just starts to run out of the same hole. Replace plug. Done. (about 2qts, maybe more for 14 bolt)

Course, depending on rear wheel seals, and pinion seal, you may have leakage. If you have oily, tacky wetness in your rear brake backing plate and such, your rear seals are leaking (pull the drum and look at the whole brake assembly). Comes from the same 90wt. that is lubing the rear end. It lubes the rear wheel bearings as well.

Best of luck, and keep ius posted! That is a Legacy truck you have there! I'm sure your GrandDad is smiling down on you for saving that rig! Congrats!

Haha thanks man, and I appreciate the kind words. I'll put more pics up soon, and that's a sharp truck you've got
Posted via Mobile Device

[71K20chevy]

I personally am I believer to never cheap out on brakes, so I'd say do all that you can afford on them. The thing is, you gotta realize that these are what stops you at 45 mph when some moron pulls out in front of you!

[Yellow72C10]

Originally Posted by 71K20chevy

I personally am I believer to never cheap out on brakes, so I'd say do all that you can afford on them. The thing is, you gotta realize that these are what stops you at 45 mph when some moron pulls out in front of you!

Would it be worth it to go ahead and get them professionally done as I have zero experience? Also, worth it too swap the rears to disc?
Posted via Mobile Device