Brake boosters

[MASTERBrian]

The booster is in, except for the lower two bolts. Apparently I'll have to stand on my head to get them tightened.

As for the pushrod, I cut the end off the booster pushrod, then threaded it with 3/8 16. I then opted for the clevis end vs the factory Heim style connection. My main reason for this was what I had and I didn't have a long enough, threaded, 7/16 20 bolt nor could I find a die to make my own. The clevis I found had a 3/8" rod, so even though the clevis end was 20 or 24 pitched threads, I threaded the other end to the 3/8 16, which now matches the pushrod going into the booster. I joined those two rods with a coupling nut threaded to match and locked it in place with a nut on either end. If I loosen the nut near the clevis, I can easily adjust the pedal freeplay then lock it back in place.

Obviously it needs some paint, imo at least, but so does the rest of the under dash. Just nice to finally have this step behind me.

I am somewhat considering looking for a longer 7/16 20 bolt or die and eventually creating an end using the factory bracket to pedal. If I do this, I'll drill out half of the coupling nut and run a tap into it to create the 7/16 20 thread to match the factory end. But that's just me being a bit anal and wanting to keep as much original as I can for ease later down the road.

Now if I can just get the rest of the lines finished, I'll have brakes. Next fuel lines and tank, figuring out why parking lights don't work and getting her registered and onto the road!

[Captainfab]

The issue is that not all of the aftermarket universal boosters have the correct mounting stud pattern. If the correct booster is used, there are no modifications to my booster brackets needed.

Originally Posted by rvrfoot

I ordered amount from Captain Fab but the holes were off if you get a powder-coated you're going to screw up the powder coat I just got it raw steel rimmed the holes and then Rattle can black

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The issue is that not all of the aftermarket universal boosters have the correct mounting stud pattern. If the correct booster is used, there are no modifications to my booster brackets needed.

Once I straightened up and used one from the list, it worked perfectly! I realize that wasn't pointed at me this time.

[Captainfab]

And thank you for documenting your lengthening of the booster pushrod. I'm sure it will help many others.

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

Once I straightened up and used one from the list, it worked perfectly! I realize that wasn't pointed at me this time.

[LostMy65]

Next on my 'To Do' list.

[russellrox]

I’m having the same issue right now, never thought of theading it, do you have any more pictures of how you coupled to the factory push rod?

[joesscamaro]

Here's my attempt at an under the cab brake set-up. Bought the pedal online, master is a spare I had laying around and had a 7" booster that I began to modify/mock-up. Still in need of the proportioning valve and master for disc/disc and to run my lines...but it's getting there.

[Captainfab]

I do not know who that question is directed to but I answered your PM and here is the link to a thread showing another members method of the booster pushrod lengthening.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=564518

Originally Posted by russellrox

I’m having the same issue right now, never thought of theading it, do you have any more pictures of how you coupled to the factory push rod?

[headsup9550]

Edit - didn't realize my question had been answered already