Timing and Tune Up Q's

[awbrown]

did you crank more timing into it yet ??

[PoDuck]

Sorry, I was mixed up. On my truck, the wire going to the tach is white. The connector is brown. I mixed them up in my head. It is the other connector that is the tach connector.

[msg]

I went to remove the choke pulloff and here is what the vacuum hose looked like that went from the base of the carb to the pulloff.



So I replaced that.

Then I messed up by making an attempt to better connect the electric choke wire that was spliced in and it looked pretty loose. In trying to untangle the spliced knotted area the yellow wire broke from the connector that plugs into the alternator.

So I need to figure out how make this repair right.

I put the questions I have in the pic to make it easier to understand.
I guess the connector was pretty brittle on the yellow wire, cause I didnt tug on it - just pressed down on the tab and tried to remove it.

[awbrown]

That is the wrong conector for the electric choke.... should be a gray single wire.. you may be able to buy one at the parts store , but would be faster to go to a junk yard ....
also rotate that choke til the connecter is at 6:00 oclock ,at least far enough so the choke closes when you hit the throttle...

[awbrown]

oops just saw that is the alt. connector , same deal ... you can use a small screwdriver and dis lodge the terminal and replace it ...I dont know about using that wire to power the choke , if the truck still has a tan resister wire that is powered by the switch , you could use that one , but I do know others who have used the power to the dist. don't know if that is right...

[awbrown]

did you advance the timing yet ???

[msg]

I'll try and get that terminal dislodged and rewire it all. Ill get the wires at least better connected the same way its been for years until I'm told thats all wrong. Worked before just looked kinda sloppy.

I was just about to advance the timing when I goofed up the alternator connector. .

[PoDuck]

You can purchase the alternator connector, with wires coming from it from parts stores, which would be the easiest way to do it. If you go that direction, I would suggest soldering the ends to the old wires and use shrink tubing to waterproof it.

If you have access to a non-insulated terminal crimper, you can purchase new terminals, crimp the new ones onto the wire, and just take the old ones out of the connector and put the new ones in. Most people don't have the right crimpers though. I only have some because I redid all my wiring with an Amercian Autowire kit, and purchased the crimpers for that, and they are expensive. Regular crimpers won't work properly.

The best way to make that connection is to solder it to the wire going to the alternator and use shrink tubing to waterproof it (if that is your choice of switched power).

[msg]

I did make the adjustments that have been recommended and it is finally cranking on a turn of the key when cold cranked, and also holding its idle without me having to feed it fuel!

• I replaced that cracked up vac line to the carb from the choke pulloff
• Replaced the alternator connector with a new one
• temporarily wired the electric choke the same way as it has been in the past, until I can run a wire from the fuse panel through the firewall and to the electric choke tab
• readjusted the electric choke to line up at the tab part to 6 oclock
• loosened the cold idle screw counterclockwise until I could take my thumb and press the flap flush to the carb in the closed position. I was turning the screw while I was applying pressure to the flap and it took 2 or 3 counterclockwise turns until it closed completely. As it was originally the plate when pressed down would not completely close. left a gap about 3/16 " wide.
• loosened the distributor (which took the shortest 9/16 wrench I could find, sockets were too tall) and advanced the timing.
• I ran the timing light that I have and it was reading an inch to the left of the timing tab. Might be too high.
• Tested the vacuum and it was at 17 to 17.5, fluxed about that much.

Speaking of vacuum, there is a connection point where 3 lines connect just in front of the distributor on the motor. It has 3 stems coming from it. One is the brake booster line, the other I assume is connected to the transmission since it travels below the firewall towards the trans, and then there is this line that looks pretty old and is capped with a bolt.





Here is a video clip of the cold crank after I did all of what I mentioned above, and I advanced the timing as well in it.




Looks like the choke pulloff is working, it moves at least.

One thing that is pretty bad is the screeching sound coming out of the carb when throttled. What can be adjusted to silence that? Or is it a rebuild to fix?

[msg]

With awbrown's help I have also found that the distributors vac advance was shot, so I have replaced it. It now cranks up great with a push (or 2 sometimes) from the accelerator and a turn of the key!

I set the timing to 12 degrees and I have been trying to watch for the choke pulloff to operate as the engine warms up.

I see that when the accelerator is pushed the choke flap sits flush and that when cranked it backs off a little bit. Should the choke open up all the way to 90 degrees within a few minutes of idling? I dont see that it does. I also noticed that when I press down on the tab in between the electric choke and the carb that the flap opens 90 degrees and idles lower/smoother.

Here is a clip of the cold crank today



and this clip shows the tab I mentioned that when pressed down opens the choke 90 degrees,



Are there more adjustments I should make to get the idling to not be so high?

[PoDuck]

Your choke won't open all the way and stay there until you press on the pedal. It somewhat holds it in place.