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Old 03-29-2013, 01:12 PM   #26
vidman
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

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Originally Posted by Marv D View Post
Ohhh if were gonna play show and tell

lol
I don't think you'd break this,, it's surviving 790horse, 1.2x sixty's in a 3000 pound chassis, tansbrake, wheels up launch and tripping the 60' timers with the rear tires


It's only

On the more mild (and affordable side of the 9"
I've beat on the 9" in my 66 with 666HP, big slicks, Iron aftermarket centersection, Richmond street gears, Dyneer No-spin locker. No failures yet with 3650pounds, 1.4x sixtys on a transbrake launch. EXCEPT axle,, 2 Strange 35spline axles, and one Dutchmans axle, now I'm running Mark Williams axles in everything and (knock on wood) I can't seem to tear them up.... waiting for the next weaker link to surface.

There are a lot of 9" haters out there and the little extra HP it takes because of the pinion placement, all sorts of technical excusses to not use a 9", BUT the fact remains the 9" has become the 'SOP' for hotrodders and racers. Parts are more plentiful and engineered / re-ingineered and re-re-re engineered that the 60 or so years they have been around they are about as bulletproof as anything out there,, and cheaper than anything else to build. (With 'cheap' being a relative term obviously).

The 9" is has become like the Miscrosot of rear ends... just about EVERYBODY carries a program for them,, and just about every parts house has the pieces to put one back together if something fails. The aftermarket proliferation of quality ad affordable pieces make the 9" a no brainer IMPO if your starting from scratch. Pick a wheel, then have the rear built to fit.

You get what you pay for,,, anywhere from around $1300 to $3800 depending on internals, brakes, bracketry, axles.. bla bla bla




BTW, keep in mind not all "14 - 16" tires" are created eaqual. I owned a set of MT Sportsmans once. A little 380HP 355 would blacktrack to 1/2 track with a best of 2.15 sixty foot times. A change to a Hoosier QT street tire was good for nearly 1/2 a second to the 60'. Hard as nails 'built fore looks' street tires just aren't going to hook and hurt parts. Changing from the MT Sportsman to the Hoosier QT was good for 3 axles, 2 u-joints, a driveshaft........... It's a very slippery slope
Thats different that Strange uses the two sizes of bolts. are they stagered 1/2 and 5/8 or 5/8 and 3/4 threads.. not much room for a socket in there. I spent about an hour last night looking at Mark Williams # 24 catalog. very very impressive products they have there
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:25 AM   #27
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

That's their pro gear and spool setup. They claim good to 1500HP and 7seconds in a 2500 pound chassis. I've torn up lost of stuff in the low 9 second Nova,, but not a hint of trouble from the rear. Yes they are staggered, and exactly because of the issue you said,, no access to the bolts. Also I'm assuming they were looking for additional clamping to avoid gear deflection, without taking away from the mass with all large holes?/ I have no idea really, you'd have to ask the engineers. They design / build it,, I just try to destroy it. LOL
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:16 AM   #28
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

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Originally Posted by Marv D View Post
That's their pro gear and spool setup. They claim good to 1500HP and 7seconds in a 2500 pound chassis. I've torn up lost of stuff in the low 9 second Nova,, but not a hint of trouble from the rear. Yes they are staggered, and exactly because of the issue you said,, no access to the bolts. Also I'm assuming they were looking for additional clamping to avoid gear deflection, without taking away from the mass with all large holes?/ I have no idea really, you'd have to ask the engineers. They design / build it,, I just try to destroy it. LOL
I guess you will have to go faster and try harder...LOL
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:11 PM   #29
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

I'll bet that even though it cost us our hard earned money, everytime we break parts like rears in our trucks we grin and thump our chest deep down inside? I know i'm guilty of it.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:18 PM   #30
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

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Originally Posted by skeeterbug View Post
I'll bet that even though it cost us our hard earned money, everytime we break parts like rears in our trucks we grin and thump our chest deep down inside? I know i'm guilty of it.
Ya me too, I,m also guilty and thats why one of my best friends has 6 hooks and 3 flatbeds and he loves cold beer..
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:57 AM   #31
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

Im using a Rick Jones chromo housing with 3.5 axle tubes. It sounds crazy but people tested with shock sensors attached to the axle tubes on each side. They discovered the tubes where flexing going down the track. Jeg Coughlin was one of them , Greg Stanfield was another. When the new rear end was built with more bracing and bigger tubes, both cars picked up almost .5 a tenth. That is huge in Pro Stock , and the cars are only 2300lbs. I may add some turbos at some point so I wanted to start with something stout to begin with.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:36 PM   #32
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

I am still debating on what to use. i know that i will not use the factory 12 bolt, knowing that it will explode with my motor that I,m running. that said i,m still looking at different aftermarket axle builders to see how much i have to spend to make it all work. The number one thing is that i do not want an axle that will not hold up. being stranded on the side of the road is not an option...
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:55 PM   #33
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

Did a eBay 9" with ex NASCAR stuff on the cheap. 3.25" bearing 31 spline Detroit locker for 200$ and 3:82 edm polished ring and pinion for 79$
Havnt killed it yet 1.67 60' @ 4160lbs and street miles.
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:01 PM   #34
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Re: Fat Blocks and Rear Ends

Ya i have been looking at some of the Nascar stuff, Just not seen one I like yet. and some of the prices are cheap..
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