some help decoding my "new" engine

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by 406 Q-ship

Those heads are missing a casting number. In 1970 the 300 hp 350 used the 041 heads that are small 64 cc chambers. On the other hand the 1970 250 hp (2bbl) 350 used the 441 heads that are the 76 cc chambers that you noted in decoding. I believe you have a 300 hp 350 from 1970 with a different intake, the 4 bolt bottom end and heads are the big clues to the 300 hp engine (250 hp were all 2 bolt blocks).

thanks man, so it seems my engine isnt a complete unit anymore:
- different intake
- different heads, the other side has 3932441 for casting number, I'll take a picture tomorrow
- but a good solid base

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by manimal

That means the crank journal surfaces have been cut(made smaller) by .020/.030 inches...twenty thousandths and thirty thousandths.

and do you read this from the dots and stripe of the mark?

friend of mine asked if one can read from these dots and stripes if its the main or the rods?

[manimal]

Originally Posted by kikkegek

he Manimal,

thanks for the update. so I guess this mark means the crank has been regrinded?



is there anything I can read of this mark?

the two dots should be .020 on the mains, the 3 dots should be .030 on the rods. reason for that is the 2 dots are closest to the main journal and the 3 dots closest to the rod journals.

[kikkegek]

took de head of the passenger side last night.



you can still see the honing pattern. what do you guys think?









the pistons have STD on then, so probably still original size.



gasket looks dry and fine



what do you guys think?

[manimal]

pistons are STD...a GOOD thing. You can use that block to rebuild a 350 or a 383 (or a 391 or even a large journal 327/302) Now post a pick of the cam bore when you take off the timing cover and chain/sprocket.

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by manimal

pistons are STD...a GOOD thing. You can use that block to rebuild a 350 or a 383 (or a 391 or even a large journal 327/302) Now post a pick of the cam bore when you take off the timing cover and chain/sprocket.

yo! will do...I'll be back

[kikkegek]

ok, back again. got myself a balancer puller and pulled the balancer and timing cover. here's some pics





the chain has "some play" (dayumn, this engine must have run bad!!!!)
cam sprocket says "KF" and "S390"
crank sprocket says "S391




on the engine it says "010" and "020" which would make this a high nickel/tin block?
it also says "G35" is that a casting date?



too bad there is no numbers on the camshaft. Any way to tell what kind of camshaft there is in here? do I need to take it out?

[INSIDIOUS '86]

That honing doesn't look right. It's not consistent

Cam may have numbers on the back. Just put in some long bolts and you should be able to grab it and yank it out.

How's the bottom of the lifters look?
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[manimal]

That is a PRIME example of what I would look for in a block. See the machined area around the cam..it's centered...means little to no core shift. Your cylinders should be the same thickness all the ay around as well.
That is my vision of a PERFECT production block. High nickle and little to no core shift! USE IT!

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by manimal

That is a PRIME example of what I would look for in a block. See the machined area around the cam..it's centered...means little to no core shift. Your cylinders should be the same thickness all the ay around as well.
That is my vision of a PERFECT production block. High nickle and little to no core shift! USE IT!

super! thanks.

heres the cam info I pulled out

CWC


C2 and D4


1579


940805 and 274

[manimal]

for me, those #s do nothing. Could be just a stock cam????

[manimal]

the honing looks like it was done with a ball hone at home. If you are going to "BUILD" this engine, I would suggest only bore it enough to produce a round cylinder again.(.020 or .030...)that will leave you PLENTY to rebuild it again in the future...another 20-30 years down the road!