What would it take to get it running?

[White70C20]

Awesome suggestions guys!

I can't wait to get back out to my uncle's farm to start wrenching on it.
Since I am in college, there's no place for me to park it without people complaining.
So I'll be doing most of the work at my uncle's until it can move under it's own power.
My plan is:
1. Pull it out of the brush
2. Analyze the condition of the truck
3. Order new gas tank and sending unit
4. Pull the plugs and put WD40 in the cylinders
5. Get a good battery and change the oil.
6. Pour some gas in the carb and try to start it.
7. If it starts, install new gas tank and drive it around the yard!

I'll keep ya'all posted!

[buddylj1990]

expect the unexpected anything can go wrong i'm doing the same thing but i got mine as a daily driver here every thing i've have done so far .bell crank or also called zbar broke for the clutch , water pump,master cylinder,wheel cylinders , front rubber brake lines, tires,battery,holley carb,and carb adapter
[cost]
truck=1400
zbar=20
brake struff =free came with truck
water pump=36
tires used=80
battery=80
holley=75
carb adapter=40
(((but its all worth it))) people wavin u down everyone askin if you'll sell it
there ain't been day go by that someone ain't ask yo look at it
67 c10 factory everything down to the 327

[In The Ten Ring]

Oh geeze! I WANTED to "just get mine running" but instead I've been like "while I'm at it I might as well fix this and this and this and this..." LOL

After the carb is rebuilt that will finish the "complete fuel system cleaning" and then I'll just have the stuck parking brakes, cab to frame bushings (next week), radiator core support rust (to decide on), inner fender swap, windshield washer to fix, and put the new radiator in AND get the thing started.

KUDOS man! As to the original poster, keep after it man! If I lived close to you I'd come over and help you for free.

[White70C20]

Thanks, ITTR!

I'm hoping everything goes well. With me being in college and living 1/2 hour away from the truck, it's likely to be slow going. My goal is to have it running and driving down the road before it snows. When that happens, I'll be screwed until spring.

[White70C20]

Well, I went to my uncle's today. Cleaned up around where the truck is so I could get better pictures. I was able to get the hood open, and I was amazed to see that there was still coolant in the radiator. Plus the oil still looked halfway decent for being parked for 15-20 years. I think all it needs is an oil change, some new coolant, and a battery and it'll start up (I hope).

Anyway, here are the better pictures I promised.









Aside from being a little beat up, I think the body is really clean (as far as rust). Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.

[White70C20]

Another view of the engine.

[flashed]

It looks like its woth saving to me ,keep us posted .

[GuyO]

Lots of good advice, especially pulling the plugs and squirting in penetrating oil and letting it sit. I have recently done a 72 Suburban. You have a great engine. I recommend to not be in a hurry, take your time and get it right. Old gas, stuck fuel pump, fuel lines rotting (from the inside), thermostat and the rear main seal are trouble areas my experience when reviving a parked truck. When you get it running, I used CLR, chrome cleaner and rubbing compound to bring the paint up. Pic below.

[White70C20]

Thanks! That looks really nice.

[68shortstep]

Looks like Grandad parked by Braille, so after the mechanical experience, you'l get to learn some bodywork, too.

Cool old rig. Wish I had one like that with family history riding along with you.

Good Luck & keep posting.

[White70C20]

Originally Posted by 68shortstep

Looks like Grandad parked by Braille, so after the mechanical experience, you'l get to learn some bodywork, too.

Cool old rig. Wish I had one like that with family history riding along with you.

Good Luck & keep posting.

Actually, I think the story goes that most of those dents were put there with farm equipment. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to pop all those dents out or not (some of them end in gashed holes where the implement came to a stop, LOL). I kind of like the idea of leaving it in "survivor condition".

[GuyO]

White70, I forgot to say that your fuel filter on the single barrel carb is inside the carb where the fuel line connects to the carb base. Certainly need to pull that out and clean it. I can't see if you have another paper style added in addition to that one too. Many people do. If the needle valve/float sticks just tap lightly on top of reservoir. When I rebuilt the Rochester Monojet on my 70 GMC with a 250 I6 the carb kit was just under $6.00. The fuel pump new was $20.00. Someone earlier mentioned that getting a old parked truck running again is the most fun part of the project. I agree. Do you have access to a dwell meter and timing light?

[White70C20]

Thanks!

No, I don't have access to a dwell meter or a timing light. I'm hoping it ran right when they parked it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[alsriv2]

That one should be fun to make it run again. Go slowly and take your time. When I was in high school (many years ago ) my Dad drug out his father's 1938 International D20 out of a field and wanted to get it running again. The engine was seriously frozen, but after soaking the cylinders with penetrating oil, removing the flat head and providing some persuasion (sledge hammer and wood) he got the rotating assembly rotating once again. Wouldn't you know he had that thing running just a few days ofter that. Pretty cool truck as well. I6 with a 3 speed. Top speed was 36 mph wide open.
I drove that truck for 4 years in high school, never had a break down.

Basically, have fun with the truck and make it yours.