My first truck

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Snailed

. . . . . Oh and Lugnutz, you can see how the ebrake rod attaches to the frame. It's on a small pad that lets the rod pull squarely on the hole. Is yours this type?

Here is a pic of my 66 cable mock up. The flat crossmember is from the old 65 eBrake setup. It might work well for my tranny crossmember, but I can't use it for both. It is still in the stock position. The 66 trucks don't have that crossmember because they use a newer designed eBrake system which I show in the same photo.

I need to find out where the red pigtail cable guide goes. The end hooks into a hole on the frame. It's not really red. That's just my drawing. LOL! There is one on each frame rail and it merely serves as a cable guide. I'm pretty sure I could just pick any hole that lines up, but I thought I might as well ask.
Thanks for the help and nice work (way over my head) on the "mega - whatever you call it". LOL!

[Snailed]

Ohhh, I don't have those. The cables just go through holes in the crossmember where the trailing arms atttach and then right to the drums. My ebrake works great, for what it's worth. I think I have the same CAD drawing program you have

[Captainfab]

There should be one of those 'pigtails' on each side of the frame. Although there may not be a need on a shortbed. I'll see if I can get a pic of just where they go. Also there is a thread here somewhere on converting the the '66-'72 e-brake cable set up.

[Captainfab]

The closest I have is a '69 long bed frame, which has basically the same e-brake asembly.

Sorry, I didn't realize the fuel line was right in the way.
[IMG][/IMG]

[kieth]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Maybe you could do me a favor? I have a 1966 e-Brake setup that I pulled from my 1966 parts truck. It has a cable guide that looks like a pig tail. There is one on each frame rail. If you still have an original e-Brake setup on yours, maybe you could help me figure out which hole it should go in on each frame rail? Maybe? No rush. Thanks

Here is a shot of my 66 gmc e brake cable.....hope this helps, mine is a swb fleetside. Kieth

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...7896&k=dP4bB7X



here is another view of the cable.
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...7236&k=v4Rpz77

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The closest I have is a '69 long bed frame, which has basically the same e-brake asembly.

Sorry, I didn't realize the fuel line was right in the way.
[IMG][/IMG]

Originally Posted by kieth

Here is a shot of my 66 gmc e brake cable.....hope this helps, mine is a swb fleetside. Kieth

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...7896&k=dP4bB7X



here is another view of the cable.
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...7236&k=v4Rpz77

Thanks guys. Those pics sure help a lot!

[Snailed]

I took a picture of my recent work today so I thought I would update this thread. It's not fancy at all but it should be good for a daily driver and for a little bit of towing.

So my boss gave me a recently rebuilt 350 that has been in storage for a while and I finely dropped it in with a buddy last Friday. I was sick of the oil leaks and the lifter noise on the engine that came with the truck so this was a really nice thing to get. The heads are small runner heads from a 95-98 heavy duty truck crate engine and the block is a 2 bolt 70's block with the high nickel and tin. I just cleaned up the old intake manifold and since that's also meant for low rpm power and I already had my TBI adapter plate made for it. It starts and runs so much better too without even retuning the Megasquirt. Weird what having good compression does.

I had also installed my $200 serpentine setup and got a new belt and tensioner for it. Just needed to drill and tap a hole in the right head and weld a tab to the bottom of the right bracket to grab a boss in the block. The big alternator (105amp?) does a much better job of keeping the voltage up.

I bought a new pitman arm ($7.50!) and cheapy metric box and was able to just bend the lines that came with the serp setup a little and hook it right up. I also used Captain Fabs adapter plate welded it to the frame and then soaked in some paint to keep the water out. I'm loving having power steering. Especially when I drive to work at 6:45am I found I wasn't really in the mood to crank on that wheel so hard. Feels like a Caddy now

The fan and shroud are new too. I had put in the PRC radiator earlier and since it's a $180 racing one, it doesn't have the top and bottom caps on the core. I decided to make my fan shroud integral with a top cap to sort of dress it up and it makes installing the fan easy too. It puts the face of fan 1.75" from the core.

I used a Spal 16" extreme duty pn 30102803. It's on a 60amp maxi fuse in a Blue Sea holder and then run through a 70A relay. It's controlled by the ECU and is set up to only be active above 300rpm so it doesn't kick on while cranking when the engine is already hot. It's pretty loud and I think it might pull the truck forward in neutral :P luckily, it's almost never on.

I still need to neaten up the wiring in the engine bay (was waiting until the new alternator was in) but I'm really enjoying putting miles on this thing now that the engine is taken care of.

[blazer-k5]

Awesome work Nice truck man.

[Snailed]

So the 2nd 350 leaked and still sounded like an old small block so I yanked it out to sell and now there is a 5.3 LS engine with a 4l80E behind it sitting in the bay. After regrettably picking CPP for my brake parts, the truck also has 2.5" drop spindles and power brakes. I used a 27mm master and booster from a 2008 SRT8 Magnum and a rear axle from a 4wd '87 Blazer for the locker and bigger brakes. Oh, and the rear is bagged and I have an Accuair self leveling setup waiting to go in once the engine is done.

[Captainfab]

Sorry to hear you had trouble with the 2nd small block, but you should be happy with the LSx. Are you going to be using MS to control the 5.3/4L80E?

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by Snailed

So the 2nd 350 leaked and still sounded like an old small block...

?????

[Snailed]

The engine is fine mechanically, it just leaks and I personally don't like the rattly sound of 1st gen Chevy V8s. No offense intended. Luckily GM didn't like the sound or the leaks either so they made the gen 3 engines which are excellent and cheap! Good for us hot rodders!

I think you're right Capt. I sold the MS to a fellow in Australia and reworked the stock truck harness so I can put the stock VCM in the cab and hide some of the wires. I also bought HPtuners and will be getting a sector swap to control the 4l80e and the engine. This will require almost no time to dial in since GM did the hard part vs the MegaSquirt which ran very well but I had many hours getting part throttle areas perfect.

Here are some more pics of my project;

[Snailed]

This article describes some of the changes GM made on the 3rd gen engine for anyone interested - http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...art1/#Benefits

[Palf70Step]

Like the work you have been putting into your truck. It'll be nice to see how she runs with the LS in it.

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by Snailed

The engine is fine mechanically, it just leaks and I personally don't like the rattly sound of 1st gen Chevy V8s. No offense intended. Luckily GM didn't like the sound or the leaks either so they made the gen 3 engines which are excellent and cheap! Good for us hot rodders!

No offense taken. That's what I don't get, though--a 1st gen SBC in good shape shouldn't be mechanically loud at all. In fact, it's actually the 3rd gen engines that are known for piston slap issues. http://www.pistonslap.com/

Don't get me wrong; I personally like the LSx series a lot (just bought a 6.0 to put in something the other day), but a good 1st gen SBC should be nice and quiet (shouldn't be leaky, either).

[Snailed]

Thanks 70step, its always cool building something you get to use everyday.

It's hard to describe. There are just some engines that sound better to me, excluding the exhaust and intake sounds. I mostly like quiet ones I guess. I haven't heard one that slaps yet. I hope mine doesn't! I work on/with 1st gen small blocks in hot rods just about everyday. They have a sound, man, I'm tellin ya

As for the leaks. TEACH ME! I have yet to see one that doesn't leak or put one together that doesn't leak eventually. I have used oem seals and gaskets, aftermarket ones, straight RTV, stock PCV systems, custom ones. No luck. There are always some damp areas after it has been in service for a while.

Here are some more progress shots;

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by Snailed

Thanks 70step, its always cool building something you get to use everyday.

It's hard to describe. There are just some engines that sound better to me, excluding the exhaust and intake sounds. I mostly like quiet ones I guess. I haven't heard one that slaps yet. I hope mine doesn't! I work on/with 1st gen small blocks in hot rods just about everyday. They have a sound, man, I'm tellin ya

As for the leaks. TEACH ME! I have yet to see one that doesn't leak or put one together that doesn't leak eventually. I have used oem seals and gaskets, aftermarket ones, straight RTV, stock PCV systems, custom ones. No luck. There are always some damp areas after it has been in service for a while.

Here are some more progress shots;

Oh--I meant actual mechanical noise, not intake or exhaust noise.

Late model 1st gen stuff does have the one-piece real seal and centerbolt valve covers that helped those common potential leaks a lot. IME most everything seems to develop some "dampness" at some point, though (at least sometimes). As an example, my 90,000 mile 6.0 LQ4 was/is plenty damp.

[Snailed]

Yeah, it's pretty rare to find a 100% dry engine.

Some more progress on the swap;

Engine mounts started. Decided to just use the stock truck mounts and build plates for them to bolt to. I'll add a post for the middle bolt before I paint it.

Check out the 4l80e output shaft to see what kind of slip yoke I want to get

I have read on here that some people find removing frame rivets time consuming. I use this air chisel and can zip the heads right off. I'm too impatient to heat them up or cut them first.

I'm changing my old radiator to a double pass design. Welding in a divider and changing the necks so the plumbing will be clean. It probably doesn't matter but my radiator has an odd number of tubes so one pass has an extra one. Also planning on taking the filler neck off the high pressure side and using a remote header tank to actively remove air.

[Snailed]

Mounts are done. I gave the frame an aerosol overhaul with some rust converter and then Duplicolor ford semi gloss black rattle can. It was starting to rust pretty quick since I pressure washed all the paint off after pulling the other engine so it was time. I also made a simple 1 x 3 tube crossmember for the trans to sit on. I just left the stock mount on the trans and built a little pad off the tubing. A couple reinforcement sleeves welded in to bolt it through the frame flange and that part is done. I put the drivetrain a couple degrees down in the rear and slightly to the right of centerline. The trans pan is parallel and flush with the bottom of the frame rails. The front axle line is close to the middle of the #1 cyl.

At this point the oil pan is all figured out. (my pictures are all out of order sorry) I got a used F body pan and pickup and modified my windage tray to fit. I also welded in a -10AN fitting just in case. Installed using a Felpro gasket. I also tapped the oil filter feed plate thing for a -3AN fitting to run to my stock oil pressure gauge.

[Bomp]

Looking good. You oughta be on the road in no time.

[Snailed]

Thanks! The list is getting shorter. Got an email from HP Tuners today with my segment swap to run the 4L80E. Also moved my rear air bag mounts back since I moved the rear end to center it up a little better in the opening, about 7/8". Figured I was making a driveshaft anyway so now's the time.

[Snailed]

It runs! It sounds good too. I might need a serpentine belt tensioner pulley by the sound.

I bought all the parts to make a set of stainless headers but I know it will set me back three or four days so I just put on these Hooker trailblazer manifolds. Good enough.

[Palf70Step]

Looks good in there!!

[66Submarine]

Nice.

[Snailed]

It's close. I got the old Dynasty fired up and made my air separator tank and put the tubes on the radiator. I made a 3/4" wye fitting for the separator return out of an aluminum bend from the hardware store. I think it's for a washing machine drain, about .030" thick. I also stuck together a couple 3.5" aluminum bends for my intake tube. I formed beads around all my slip-on hose connections with a bead roller.

The steam vents off the head go to a -6an inlet on the tank. I made a 1/4" stainless barb out of a piece of brake line and welded it to a -6 steel pushlock 90 fitting for the steam vent. It looks pretty goo I think since the OD of the hose matches the step in the fitting.