old skool way...?

[Anti-Ricer]

How low can you go before the wheels start rubbing when you turn and the drive line becomes out of wack
Here is how I want my stance or as close to it as I can get.


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[lasher78]

another question to go along with that is, how many inches can you lower rear before it becomes necassary to change your panhard bar to an adjustable?
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[ol_skool_chevy]

use 3/4 front springs..........they have more travel...cut them to the height you want..and cut your rear springs......its all FREE...That's Old skool I personally think the jeep springs are too soft...just my option

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

use 3/4 front springs..........they have more travel...cut them to the height you want..and cut your rear springs......its all FREE...That's Old skool I personally think the jeep springs are too soft...just my option

i didnt think you could cut rear because of the taper. still how low before have to use adjustable panhard bar?
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[ol_skool_chevy]

I have cut mine for over 30 years..............Never once have I had a problem.....you only need to cut the panhard bar...you can cut it and make it longer and weld it.....FREE...that's OL' Skool

[lasher78]

at what point do you have to shorten panhard bar...2", 4", 6"????
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[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by lasher78

thanks lugnutz65 for all the info..ur right budget is almost non existent lol. truck been sitring 13yrs with not a single thing done to it...so just tryin to get all info i can so i can come back to it when i get to that stage and pick and choose what to do next...after 13yrs stall i figure any progess is good.
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Lasher,
Does the truck run and drive yet? If not, do that first. The rear panhard bar needs to be custom fit AFTER you lower the truck and the rear is centered again. They make adjustable track bars in the aftermarket, but if you can weld I guess you can make your own. My friend got some parts from Tractor Supply Co and made his own adjustable track bar for CHEAP.

[ol_skool_chevy]

you said in the first post you wanted to build your truck as you say " $o budget " so all I told you is within that $o budget..if you want a adjustable panhard bar. I'm sorry but those cost Money and that's no in your $o budget...

[19666Trucker]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

you said in the first post you wanted to build your truck as you say " $o budget " so all I told you is within that $o budget..if you want a adjustable panhard bar. I'm sorry but those cost Money and that's no in your $o budget...

like it old school, do you leave top or bottom in the rear getting ready drop the back some more, sorry lasher for jacking the thread but you cut coil you need this info to.
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[19666Trucker]

Call off road shop s too for jeep springs since they scrape the old ones after a lift there going cheaper than a junk yard plus you don't have remove them. Don't give up if bring it down bagges are in future for my so cutting was easy and cheap.
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[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

I have cut mine for over 30 years..............Never once have I had a problem.....you only need to cut the panhard bar...you can cut it and make it longer and weld it.....FREE...that's OL' Skool

I've gotta back up OSC on this one. We cut all the coils on my 64. In the rear you do it so that the last bit of the coil lays across the trailing arm. Some guys will swear it's "unsafe" based on nothing but regurgitation, not real experience. I've been running this way for over two years now. I do plan to go to Jeep springs or drop springs in the rear at some point, but only for the softer ride.

[19666Trucker]

Can get a picture of the cut coil guys sharp truck frizzy
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[bama63]

Originally Posted by blazins10

so jeep coils are free these days ?

mine were! a local 4x4 shop had probably 200 pairs in the scrap bin, told me to take all i needed,so i got two almost new sets and this handy info from him.

There are four different versions of the springs that were used from 1997 through 2006. jeep TJ These are the ones that can be used on the C10. Similar rear springs could be found on the Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ. All four versions are the same length wise but vary in rate.
The only way to tell them apart is by the color coded tags that are on the springs from the factory, they read as follows:
103AA (or 3AA) 130lb.
104AA (or 4AA) 140lb.
105AA (or 5AA) 150lb.
106AA (or 6AA) 160lb.

[ol_skool_chevy]

I think I got my 3/4 ton springs a few years ago from Frizzle Fry. They are bigger coils then the 1/2 tons and the coils are further apart then the 1/2 ton springs. ( I hope I explain that's clear )..I have more travel with a better ride then I did with cut 1/2 ton. Of course that's only my personal feeling based on it being my daily driver...

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by lasher78

... ill just leave it alone...
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Best plan yet. You can do lots of other things while you save your pennies for mods anyway. I started with a simple carb rebuild. It cost me two days and about 18 bucks.

Point being there are always other places to channel your energy. You can run out there and "love on her" without breaking the bank by giving her a bath, checking her brakes, changing her oil/coolant, or just getting a notepad. Sit in her making lists of all you want to do in order of expense, section of the truck, or importance to get her running right. The real thing is to keep her running, keep touching her, and keep planning.

All the other stuff happens on it's own schedule.

Besides, will you be happy with a half-done hack job on her in the long run?

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

you said in the first post you wanted to build your truck as you say " $o budget " so all I told you is within that $o budget..if you want a adjustable panhard bar. I'm sorry but those cost Money and that's no in your $o budget...

ok let me clarify this, i didnt mean a '$0 budget' on the truck. only on the lowering it just a bit, cause i dont see point in spending money on drop springs just to remove them in a couple of yrears to put in bags. i think i mentioed this in earlier post. i have no problem spending money on an item such as a adjustable panhard bar if im going ro need it anyway when bags come into play.
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[lasher78]

Originally Posted by 19666Trucker

like it old school, do you leave top or bottom in the rear getting ready drop the back some more, sorry lasher for jacking the thread but you cut coil you need this info to.
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no prob man, im not concerned with hijackin a thread, in my opinion thats what these threads are for to ask questions. if we have to start new thread every time got a question that takes up space on these servers. so anyone feel free to ask anything cause the more knowledge the better
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[19666Trucker]

I want bag my too but I needed to get down so I could be happy with it till then
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[lasher78]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I've gotta back up OSC on this one. We cut all the coils on my 64. In the rear you do it so that the last bit of the coil lays across the trailing arm. Some guys will swear it's "unsafe" based on nothing but regurgitation, not real experience. I've been running this way for over two years now. I do plan to go to Jeep springs or drop springs in the rear at some point, but only for the softer ride.

is there any chance you would have a pic of what the rear coil looks like after cutting and how it sits on arm?
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btw sweet ride!!!

[R_W]

Originally Posted by bama63

.....The only way to tell them apart is by the color coded tags that are on the springs from the factory, they read as follows:
103AA (or 3AA) 130lb.
104AA (or 4AA) 140lb.
105AA (or 5AA) 150lb.
106AA (or 6AA) 160lb.

Looks like the ones I found are the squishy ones. Gonna try them anyway, will only cost some PB Blaster. And 1,000 questions from the chidren.


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[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I've gotta back up OSC on this one. We cut all the coils on my 64. In the rear you do it so that the last bit of the coil lays across the trailing arm. Some guys will swear it's "unsafe" based on nothing but regurgitation, not real experience. I've been running this way for over two years now. I do plan to go to Jeep springs or drop springs in the rear at some point, but only for the softer ride.

Frizzle,
I respect the fact that you are on the forum staff. However, I agree that cutting a rear spring is unsafe. Have I done it? No. Will I do it? No again. Is my opinion based on "regurgitation"? Thrice, No. I've never read an article or forum topic on cutting REAR springs. This response is just me thinking out loud.

If we are talking about the same thing, it sounds like you cut the lower portion of the spring off leaving one of the bigger diameter coils as the contact point against the trailing arm and clipped under the coil spring clamp.

The coil spring clamp is designed to capture the smaller diameter on the end of the spring and keeps the spring in line with the axis of compression.

If I understand you correctly, you feel it is safe to cut and remove a few of the lower coils as long as the cut end sits on the trailing arm? I'm not gonna criticize. I just wanna understand.

In my mind, such an installation would involve the following compromises to the original engineering:
1. the spring would need to be tilted slightly so the larger diameter coil could slip under the coil spring clamp.
2. the axis of compression will be off-center.
3. less coil will be clamped under the coil spring clamp. Coil #7 in photo is much smaller than coils above it and is well captured by the spring clamp.

Your testimony of 2 years of trouble free driving is not necessarily the same type of driving that others will be doing after such a modification.

I hope others will chime in. I really hope you will show us some detailed pictures of your rear coil spring and how the lower coil is secured to the trailing arm.

[TommyDuncan]

The new style Wrangler(07-current) have a slightly different spring shape and with the 4 door model probably stiffer spring rates.I have a set AND a set of TJ(97-06) springs also. When I get a chance I will dig them out and compare them. Then I will do a 3 way comparison with the stockers also.
Jeep springs are known to sag pretty quickly so most Jeeps ride like crap too. Mine would ride on the bump stops just with a weekend worth of camping stuff.
The 4" lift springs on my 05' Jeep are way stiffer than stock. I am curious how much of a drop that would be in my 63? I'm not gonna pull them to find out... PITA!
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[jonathan-m]

Frizzle,
I respect the fact that you are on the forum staff. However, I agree that cutting a rear spring is unsafe. Have I done it? No. Will I do it? No again. Is my opinion based on "regurgitation"? Thrice, No. I've never read an article or forum topic on cutting REAR springs. This response is just me thinking out loud.

If we are talking about the same thing, it sounds like you cut the lower portion of the spring off leaving one of the bigger diameter coils as the contact point against the trailing arm and clipped under the coil spring clamp.

The coil spring clamp is designed to capture the smaller diameter on the end of the spring and keeps the spring in line with the axis of compression.

If I understand you correctly, you feel it is safe to cut and remove a few of the lower coils as long as the cut end sits on the trailing arm? I'm not gonna criticize. I just wanna understand.

In my mind, such an installation would involve the following compromises to the original engineering:
1. the spring would need to be tilted slightly so the larger diameter coil could slip under the coil spring clamp.
2. the axis of compression will be off-center.
3. less coil will be clamped under the coil spring clamp. Coil #7 in photo is much smaller than coils above it and is well captured by the spring clamp.

Your testimony of 2 years of trouble free driving is not necessarily the same type of driving that others will be doing after such a modification.

I hope others will chime in.

I totally agree with this. I have removed and replaced my springs many times, and I can't imagine any way you could get a safe amount of contact with the spring clamp after cutting off the small diameter coil. You might be able to get it clamped,but saying it was secure enough to be safe would be stretching it a lot. Last thing we want is for someone to do something that ends up getting them or someone else hurt.

[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Frizzle,
I respect the fact that you are on the forum staff. However, I agree that cutting a rear spring is unsafe. Have I done it? No. Will I do it? No again. Is my opinion based on "regurgitation"? Thrice, No. I've never read an article or forum topic on cutting REAR springs. This response is just me thinking out loud.

If we are talking about the same thing, it sounds like you cut the lower portion of the spring off leaving one of the bigger diameter coils as the contact point against the trailing arm and clipped under the coil spring clamp.

The coil spring clamp is designed to capture the smaller diameter on the end of the spring and keeps the spring in line with the axis of compression.

If I understand you correctly, you feel it is safe to cut and remove a few of the lower coils as long as the cut end sits on the trailing arm? I'm not gonna criticize. I just wanna understand.

In my mind, such an installation would involve the following compromises to the original engineering:
1. the spring would need to be tilted slightly so the larger diameter coil could slip under the coil spring clamp.
2. the axis of compression will be off-center.
3. less coil will be clamped under the coil spring clamp. Coil #7 in photo is much smaller than coils above it and is well captured by the spring clamp.

Your testimony of 2 years of trouble free driving is not necessarily the same type of driving that others will be doing after such a modification.

I hope others will chime in. I really hope you will show us some detailed pictures of your rear coil spring and how the lower coil is secured to the trailing arm.

I'm not going to speak for Frizzle fry I know he has his own personal feeling on this topic and I will only guess that we agree....30 years time tested it works. do I have photos? No. I have bags now in the rear. but I can say in my own personal opinion of running back roads in hard corning. I have Never once Ever had a problem. I'm not a engineer and I don't play one on TV. I'm simply as my forum name states a "Ol' skool Chevy" guy who has done a lot of cut springs and if someone asked me how to lower my truck on a $0 Budget..............I WOULD SAY CUT YOUR SPRINGS. Again my opinion only
I know there's far superior ways to lower a truck some good and some not so good...some cost a fair amount and some are FREE. This thread happen to be titled " old skool way...? That's the answer I got in its purest..

[lasher78]

ok going to ck the 2 four wheel drive shops that are local to see if they have any of these jeep springs left over from someone jackin theirs up for free or dirt cheap, since none of local yards have any . if no luck there may attempt cutting ( if someone could post some detailed photos of cut coils and how they sit with cup). and if none of this works out will just wait to bag it. so just in case where can someone find a good bag kit that comes complete with all ness items for install?
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