Project NiteMare-1970 C10 LWB build

[Molberg]

and some midnight black on the firewall, jambs and window areas...

[Molberg]

I'll back up a bit on a tip I got... phosphoric acid. I used the product shown. Worked great for areas I couldn't get at with a grinder. Dissolved rust with no effect on good metal. Apply, let sit for 5-10 mintues and rinse. Wire brush what you can get at, and reapply if needed.

[Molberg]

I wanted a cowl hood for my project. Wasnt sure on direction I was (still aren't) on carb setup. Thought I would try making one.. had a spare hood in case I destroyed this one. Looked at several pics... and tried a few different lines with tape before cutting. Only cut sheet metal. Leave cross braces intact. Lots of 2x4's hacked up for different angles... settled on this one

[Molberg]

All I can say if you decide to try a cowl is spot weld very slowly. Keep the hood metal from heating up. Large piece of metal and warps very easily if not careful. If you do warp it... some have had luck heating the area up and shrinking it back by hitting it with cold water. I've never been able to do it. Lol I always make it worse.

[Molberg]

The metal pieces were made in a small metal brake. Front pieces were traced on backside to match hood contour, trimmed and welded. Grind welds, fiberglass seams, finish off with filler.

[Molberg]

I made an under cowl support out of 1/8"x2" metal bar. Shaped to fit underside of cowl(leaving a 1/8" space between support and hood) welded to existing hood support edges. Filled space between support and cowl with seam sealer so it wont rattle. Sprayed the hood with hi-builds primer and sanded. Grille piece made with a section of hammermill screen.

[Molberg]

After block sanding, the underside was sprayed midnight. I made a hood lift spring from a large washer and a gm starter solenoid return spring. It pops the hood up a good 1 1/2" now when the release lever is pulled... versus digging between the hood and grille with finger nails.

[Molberg]

I located a set of '80's truck rallies locally... always liked these rims. Went with 295/50/15 on rear and 245/60/15 on the front. Had them blasted.. primed and sprayed satin black. Would likely powder coat next time.. not sure about trim rings yet. Opinions?

[Molberg]

Got my hands on a rebuilt th400. Installed a transgo reprogram kit, B&M holeshot converter and flexplate. The engine I purchased from a friend of mine we built years back for a project of his we were working on and then sold off. ('66? chev swb fleet) Its a 383 stroker, performer rpm intake, AFR aluminum heads. Updated mounts and towers from a mid '70's V8. Painted to match my project. Still considering carb options.. feel free to chime in with advice. Willing to hear any and all.

[Molberg]

Me knocking out auto crossmember from my parts truck..lol!!

[jae]

Originally Posted by Molberg

Me knocking out auto crossmember from my parts truck..lol!!

Bwahahaha

Your build looks good so far, I dig the metal work you did to make that cowl hood.

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by jae

Bwahahaha

Your build looks good so far, I dig the metal work you did to make that cowl hood.

Thank you sir! Hillbilly special here.. lol safety first

[Molberg]

The wife snapped this pic, sitting in the car.. with all the kids... shaking her head at me..lol!!!

[Molberg]

Motor and trans. set in place. New master cylinder. Seal kit installed in heater core/fan box. Replaced fan cage with a metal one. Plastic one that was there half eaten by mice. Longtube headers installed.

[Molberg]

Next was some doors. My original doors were straight, but tubs were rotted badly. Found a better set locally that required some lower skin repairs, and inner tub seam. Pieces were made with my metal brake and hand working curves into panels.

[Molberg]

Some more of door repair. Panels stitch welded, seam sealed from backside too...

[Molberg]

Doin the shaved door handle thing... made filler panels by cutting pieces out of rotten doors that match the curve, holding cut piece inside repaired door under hole to be filled and traced/cut. Double checked fit of doors on truck, prior to bodywork. (jambs double taped to prevent marks on install)

[Mr Chevorlet]

Nice metal work, looks great.

[Molberg]

Repairs/bodywork complete. Masked and applied seam sealer to edges where skin meets tub. Sprayed with hi builds primer. Ready to sand

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by Mr Chevorlet

Nice metal work, looks great.

Thank you!.. never been much of a forum poster. Just had surgery.. lots of time on my hands for a bit. lol

[Molberg]

I picked up some after market inner and outer fenders. (triplus) all fit well except right outer fender contour with hood. I might be too fussy. Hung up some panels and sprayed them.

[Molberg]

After letting paint cure, time for install. Sprayed a guide coat on outside of doors and hood while I was at it.

[Molberg]

Installed new door weather seal, underlay and molded carpet. Had to do some working to fit the hump I fabbed for console.(that I didnt use) Console and vinyl trim pieces sprayed with elastomeric paint.(satin black) Guage cluster, ashtray, glove box door and door panels sprayed satin black to contrast the gloss as well. The trim piece above door panel was stripped. Locked air orbital sander into grinter mode with 180G paper on it... and buzzed it lengthwise twice at 2 different angles to give houndstooth(?) effect... sprayed with clear

[Molberg]

Door popper time. I used autoloc. Made a plate to mount relays and control bos to. Fit under dash against firewall on passenger side. I used 3/16" steel tubing bent to act as cable guides. I wish I took more pics of this.. Can get if anyone is curious. Solenoid bolted to inside of door itself behind door panel,and used 2 cable guides to get to the push button, where outside handle used to push latch assembly.(doesnt operate inside handle this way when solenoid activated) I welded a nut to edge of the push tab... there isnt a drill bit that would scratch this stuff! Hard. Filled cable guide tubes with lithium grease.

[Molberg]

The 4 bolts in a square pattern are the mounting bolts for the solenoid. A pic of lower cable guide, bolted to bracket for lower window stop. I installed a manual release cable as well, made from a kink proof pto cable.