Truck runs ad then shuts off

[SCHRUMGMC]

Stop being a smartass, im serious on getting some help. Drove it today and it messed up majorly. I researched about a faulty regulator and thats what it told me

[coralhead]

Take off the generator belt, start it up and see if it does the same thing as before.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

I'll be damned the truck accelerate on its own now and if push the Choke back it stops.I did what Orrie told me and like the rest of yall but keeps dying out on me.Somethings wrong with the regulator

"I'll be damned the truck accelerate on its own now and if push the Choke back it stops". So we know it starts and runs. Unintended accelleration can becaused by: 1)manual throttle engaging, check to make sure that the manual throttle knob (has a T on it) is pushed all the way in and is adjusted on the carb so it is not engaging. 2)Choke cam on carb is sticking in the "start" position and not releasing causing fast idle. 3) Idle set too fast. 4) Throttle linkage hanging up and not working freely. 5) Internal carb problem such as throttle shaft or linkage hanging up. Look at the attached diagram and make sure all of the linkages and carb cams etc. are working freely. Pushing the choke in is decreasing the fuel/air ration which will make the engine run slower. Once the engine is started and has ran for half a minute you should be able to push the choke in, you should not be running the engine with the choke engaged.

"Somethings wrong with the regulator". Possibly but it is not related to the engine running. The generator and regulator are part of the charging circuit, independent of the coil, distrubutor and ignition circuits. Only time the regulator is a factor is when it does not allow the generator to recharge the battery and the engine will not crank. An engine will run for a fair amount of time just on battery power, I have had a couple of time where generator bolts loosened up and the battery was not recharging and it took time for it to drain to the point it would not run.

If the engine starts and idles the fuel pump is working and you should see fuel going thru the filter. If you are getting fuel to the carb and it will not start either the screen at the carb inlet in clogged not allowing fuel into the bowl or the accelerator pump is worn out and will not give the carb the shot of gas in need to start. If there is gas in the carb you should be able to see a squirt of gas when looking down the throat. No squirt and its accelerator pump replacement time. Get a carb kit, pull the top off the carb and replace it, looks like a cup shaped piece of composite (used to be leather) on a long shaft. I used to carry a spare because it would go bad about every three years.

If you are getting the squirt and it starts but stumble when you try to accelerate, the accelerator pump is bad. Or it could be timing or the distributor not advancing. Checking that requires a timing light and helper and can be the subject for another post.

Methodically go back and figure out cause and effect, then start checking for things that are causing the problem, keeping in mind that the charging and ignition systems are separate issues.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Thank you Orrie, ill check in on it here soon

[studda]

I only use the choke on my 216 for about half a second. The half second is the time from the motor starting to as soon as I can turn the choke off and then it idles smooth. I have been having the same problem with running then dying. The only difference is I run it down the road for a few miles and then it dies. I cleaned the carb and it stopped flooding and now it runs fine. There was a tiny piece of dirt on the needle valve, which is something you have to look for on a vehicle that has sat for a while. Albeit, the 216 is a completely different beast altogether but that's my 2 cents.

[BlackedOut67shorty]

You should show a pic of the engine\carb so we can see if everything looks ok. A jammed throttle could easily grenade your engine or worse you could get yourself or someone else
hurt. Try and look down the carb and see if any of the butterflies. Are opened. Next with everything off move the throttle. With your hand see if it binds up. Don't even think of driving the truck anywhere till you get that figured out.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Just thought of something ,I tightned the Generators bolts by hand that could be why its dying .I'll check the carb

[studda]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

Just thought of something ,I tightned the Generators bolts by hand that could be why its dying .I'll check the carb

Does the truck still crank over or does the battery die? If the battery isn't dead, it won't affect the truck running or not running.

[SCHRUMGMC]

It dies, I haven't done something right I need a E-Brake pulley something bad though. I drove it up and down my road until i headed back.It wouldn't crank back up so we jumped it off, and it did but died so i kept stomping on the gas and it was sputtering and trying to die

[studda]

So the battery is dying? Keep in mind that a generator doesn't charge the battery until the RPMs are up. It won't charge when idling. I'd check the carb just to be safe too. They are super easy to take apart to look at the needle valve.

[OrrieG]

Fuel issue. Something else I just thought of. You said you are using a plastic gas container for temporary fuel tank. Is it vented? If it is not and has a sealed fuel line at some point the fuel pump may not be able to pull the fuel from the container (think of pop trying to get out of a quart bottle turned upside down). Also, if you have been starving the old fuel pump, you may have damaged the internal diaphram. Do the fuel system diagnostics were have outlined starting with starvation vs. flooding.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Its vented just a little, It was too Cold for me today, Biggest issue I can think of is its dying. Im going to do what I said earlier and see

[SCHRUMGMC]

How does the Windshield wipers work? No motor runs off air?

Where can i buy OE Tail lights? What type of bulbs?

[studda]

The windshield wipers run off the vacuum from the motor (47-54, don't know otherwise). You can buy bulbs from any auto supplier. Just specify 6 or 12 volt and they should know. Some words of advice, in my opinion,: Federated Auto can steer you in the right direction while O'Reilly's and AutoZone don't have a clue about older vehicles. The Federated Auto suppliers that I go to [probably] look the same as they did when these vehicles were commonplace and they always have what I'm asking for.

Disclaimer: Federated Auto may or may not be in your area. I'm just assuming it's a nationwide chain of very cheap parts (usually cheaper than the internet even).

[oldman3]

Check to make sure you are no losing power to the distributor, I've seen them hooked up to ign only and it needs to be also in the run position (so you have power all the time). Hope that's clear...Jim

[SCHRUMGMC]

How do I check?. Its been way too cold for me lately

[SCHRUMGMC]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCxU...buufbydgipko0k
This is how it was running well and then it started dying..I haven't been able to check it due to it being so snowy and Cold ...I'll look into the carb what should I look for in there ?

[55metalmonkey]

Just a random thought here,
if it was runninng fine and at some point started to stumble and die and you have confirmed that you have fuel, air and spark you might have a fairly decent vacuum leak causing low vac at higher RPMs and not allowing the carb to pull in enough fuel..... something to check anyway

[SCHRUMGMC]

As far as I know all of the hoses are great, I'm thinking its something to do with the power, it isn't getting enough Voltage to handle the RPMS

[55metalmonkey]

I have seen it on a few vehicles that the hoses can vibrate loose but still stay close to the inlet and look like they are good. Still 1 more thing to eliminate as to the cause of your problem, you could also hook a vac gauge up to it and see what you are getting for vac, not sure about the specifics of your engine but a general rule would be 15"hg at idle (min), 18"+ would be better.

if you charge the battery over night does it run good initialy then go downhill as the battery current drops?

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCxU...buufbydgipko0k
This is how it was running well and then it started dying..I haven't been able to check it due to it being so snowy and Cold ...I'll look into the carb what should I look for in there ?

look at post 28. listening to the video cannot tell if it has an exhaust leak, miss, vacuum leak or??? vacuum gauge and timing light will tell if those are issues. like metalmonkey said, look for obvious loose hoses at base of the carb or manifold, I think the 235 only has one from the distributor to carb. The video below is pretty good, I learned from my grandfather how to use the vacuum gauge for timing, checking valves, etc.

How to Use a Vacuum Gauge for Diagnostics -...

I could not find a good applicable video on how to time the 235, if I remember you use a mark or ball on the flywheel, but you can just make a mark on the bottom pulley at TDC and a reference point to see if it moves when increasing RPM off of idle which means the distributor is working.

Do the diagnostice suggested and keep track of what you find and report back. I know cold, we are averaging 20 here and I have not been in the garage in weeks. If you can find an old chiltons or motor manual from the era, they have diagnostic section on how to use the vacuum gauge and timing lights too.

[01spirit750]

Could be a flakey coil

Similar thing happened to me on my 78 with HEI.

Idled okay, died when I tried to accelerate.

Ran better when I changed the timing.

Replaced coil- problem solved.

[SCHRUMGMC]

That could be it, and Orrie I have a timing light that I got from a fellow member here, I don't think its time is off, at least I'd hope not It could very well be the Coil but could that be another reason why the red light is on?, I tried polarizing it and it kept dying on me

[OrrieG]

See my comments below.

[QUOTE=SCHRUMGMC;6501197]That could be it, and Orrie I have a timing light that I got from a fellow member here, I don't think its time is off, at least I'd hope not.

Timing light will show if the dist is operating correctly, as you increase the engine speed the timing mark will shift. If it does not, or not enough, you know you have an advance problem.

It could very well be the Coil but could that be another reason why the red light is on?, I tried polarizing it and it kept dying on me.

If the gen light is coming on the generator is not charging. If you did not polarize when you first installed it you may have damaged the gen. Or the voltage regulator is bad and polarizing will not fix it. Get the generator tested, if it is ok, replace the VR and polarize before starting the truck. Once it charges and the battery holds a charge, then you have eliminated causes from the battery voltage being to low and you can move onto checking the rest of the running circuits and potential fuel issues.[/QUOTE]

[DransportGarage]

Do any of our Charlotte area members want to make a road trip? Sending out the bat signal...