Drive Shaft install question

[Chulisohombre]

Unless that top mount on top of the spring is rounded like the spring it can put off if their is too much torque or the ubolts loosen up. Looks like the newer setup from newer blazers. But would require square ubolts. I don't like this setup just because the ubolts can catch on things as you drive over them. But I take mine off road which makes a big difference in the rocks.

[jeffro308]

It looks like you have some research to do. The previous posters have good points. I can't add anything absent the ability to talk with my hands.

[Moreyel]

I am a little suspicious. The first driveshaft picture shows the leaf springs without u bolts. Jamminjohn, are you reassembling a basket case that someone else took apart? If so, who knows what drive shaft that is. It looks like it'll work fine with an 1-1/2" to 2" taken out.

[Chulisohombre]

If those springs are lift springs like they look like they are, they can be in backwards and there is a difference of about two inches where the center pin is on the spring to love the axle Back two inches. Check that as well. The slip yoke is definitely All the way in in the pic you posted. It may be possible you have a shortbes driveshaft there. Looks exact To the blazer but a few inches longer. You need to get that one cut or a new One made to center on the slip yoke between open and closed. The other one in the last pic with the cv is your front shaft.

[Jamminjohn]

Originally Posted by Moreyel

I am a little suspicious. The first driveshaft picture shows the leaf springs without u bolts. Jamminjohn, are you reassembling a basket case that someone else took apart? If so, who knows what drive shaft that is. It looks like it'll work fine with an 1-1/2" to 2" taken out.

I am afraid so, It was a trade gone bad.

I went to pick up the parts for the blazer and those were the 2 drive shafts that were there. I can not confirm that they came out of the blazer(I wouldn't know why he would have them if they didn't).

Originally Posted by Chulisohombre

Something aint right there. Is it a lifted truck? If you tried to put the shaft in like it is it won't fit. You have to push the end in first so the end that moves is in as far as it goes and then pull it out as needed to fit the yoke. My 4 wheel drive has round u bolts but sideways and hold the axle tube itself and clamps from the top of the spring. Axle looks correct. Is it centered in the wheelwell?

The truck is lifted, I do not know what size lift. Ill have to check to see that it is center in the wheel well, My first thought would be yes.



Do I need to flip the ubolts over?

I really do feel that the motor is a little to far back, But I am not sure. I do see that there are bolt holes in the frame for the cross member to come forward 2 inches

[Chulisohombre]

Yeah it's too far back. I believe the back holes are for strait six mounts. I must have missed that if you said it before. If that's the case the front shaft will be two inches short as well. Or will be extended to the end of the slip yoke.

[Jamminjohn]

I went out last night to look at it and it looks like that the transmission can not move forward anymore, there are two large bolts on the side that its bolted into the transfer case. The holes are through the the side of the frame.

Ill post pics tonight when I get home

[Chulisohombre]

If that's bolted in the right place then or has to be right. If they didn't red till the holes there or the adapter crossmember then it is sitting correct. Tomorrow ill Look and see where my engine sits in relation to those bolt holes and see if my frame has that front extra set. Measure your rear springs from the center pin to the spring eye on either side to see if they may be turned around to get a better length for the rear shaft to fit. Mine had a 2 inch offset to put the axle farther back in the wheelwell. Have you attempted to put the front in yet?

[Chulisohombre]

Those two bolts in the side hold the drivetrain in place so it doesn't let it flex when revving the engine on hard takoffs. Otherwise on auto transmissions it can crack the case on it if its missing. It's good that it is still there.

[Jamminjohn]

Originally Posted by Chulisohombre

If that's bolted in the right place then or has to be right. If they didn't red till the holes there or the adapter crossmember then it is sitting correct. Tomorrow ill Look and see where my engine sits in relation to those bolt holes and see if my frame has that front extra set. Measure your rear springs from the center pin to the spring eye on either side to see if they may be turned around to get a better length for the rear shaft to fit. Mine had a 2 inch offset to put the axle farther back in the wheelwell. Have you attempted to put the front in yet?

I have not attempted to put the front one in yet.
I will measure tonight when I get home. Can you tell me where "the center pin to the spring eye" is?

[Chulisohombre]

The center pin is in the very center of the springs and is bolted through all of the leaves to hold them together. The spring eyes are the two ends that bolt to
The frame in the front and the shackle in the rear.

[Chulisohombre]

Just read on another board that 6 cylinder and 4x4 used the same engine mount location. So your in the right location with the engine. Mine has to be the same then.

[jjzepplin]

Yes your engine is in the right spot for factory. I moved mine forward to those holes and had to drill out the rest as you will notice the rest are not there. There is controversy over the t-case bracket you speak of though as many hard core wheelers say that is what cracks the adapter. I have run mine without this bracket for a long time and no cracks. I run a serpentine system and electric fans and 4" lift so it was easy to move forward and OMG are things easier to work on! Now is the time if you have to adjust drive shaft lengths.

[Chulisohombre]

I've heard it both ways as well. But if all the bushings engine trans and side are good and not wirn out it should stay pretty much still and Make the frame torque to a minimum and not let the engine twist like it does With the weaker car engine And Trans mounts. I have a 4 speed 465 trans so I wouldn't worry about it either way. I think the later 70s and 80s trans had a weaker Casting and would have to worry about it more Than our trucks. Same goes With where the later Trucks crack their frames at the steering box and Ours is thicker and doesn't happen nearly as Much. Hardcore wheeling breaks a lot Of stuff that doesn't normally have a problem under normal use. Once you start Getting Into crazy stuff it's not a matter of if but When something breaks. If I have a problem that's when I upgrade Or Change it. Three rears later is why I went 3/4 ton. Lol

[jschuder]

Sorry to steal a photo from this thread but what is the plate called on the front of the u joint where the arrow is.I have that plate spinning when the clutch is engaged and need to fix it.