Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP

[Indian113]

I have a external pump on my S10, it's a little noisy at idle but going down the road you can't hear it over exhaust or radio.

[desertdogg]

Im sorry about all the questions, but how hard is it to remove existing engine ? then install the new one ?...Reason I ask is I had a local garage say just to remove the existing engine and just seat and secure the engine would be $900 bucks. Im not sure if this is expensive or not but I was thinking I could at least remove the existing sbc 350 and TH350 tranny without too much trouble ? once its out I wanted to clean up the firewall and front end a little then paint...Once it was out I would probably be tempted to install the engine and tranny as a whole ? how hard is this I know the hood would have to be removed, would I have to remove the front fenderst and panels too and the radiator ?

['68 Newtricks]

Edit: when I said pump whine, I meant an in-tank pump in the stock in-cab tank. I have seen a couple people run sound deadener and carpet around the tank to help quiet it down though.

[desertdogg]

Originally Posted by '68 Newtricks

Edit: when I said pump whine, I meant an in-tank pump in the stock in-cab tank. I have seen a couple people run sound deadener and carpet around the tank to help quiet it down though.

haha I actually just got done putting in Dynamat in the whole firewall, floor and gas tank but Im considering moving the tank to the back just to get some more leg room

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by desertdogg

haha I actually just got done putting in Dynamat in the whole firewall, floor and gas tank but Im considering moving the tank to the back just to get some more leg room

Well I don't know what seat's you have but I can tell you that moving the gas tank want gain you any room unless you have very low backs that will go under the back window and metal support under the back window and if you do then they want be very comfortable. Gas tank in mine is gone but I put the sub box in it's place. Look above it the metal back of the cab. That's where your factory seat hits now so it doesn't gain you anything in my opinion.

[desertdogg]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Well I don't know what seat's you have but I can tell you that moving the gas tank want gain you any room unless you have very low backs that will go under the back window and metal support under the back window and if you do then they want be very comfortable. Gas tank in mine is gone but I put the sub box in it's place. Look above it the metal back of the cab. That's where your factory seat hits now so it doesn't gain you anything in my opinion.

I guess your right, mine is the bench seat like you have but I like your idea with the subs in the back there, that looks pretty good.

[Andy4639]

They sound good to man! Thanks. I have 2 amps hooked up to 4 speakers and have 4 speakers just off the radio wires. It sounds good.I can crank it up when I want too!

[desertdogg]

Andy thats awesome, you got to have some tunes thats for sure ! I want to do mine up nice but probably do it when I finish up my interior.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by desertdogg

Im sorry about all the questions, but how hard is it to remove existing engine ? then install the new one ?...Reason I ask is I had a local garage say just to remove the existing engine and just seat and secure the engine would be $900 bucks. Im not sure if this is expensive or not but I was thinking I could at least remove the existing sbc 350 and TH350 tranny without too much trouble ? once its out I wanted to clean up the firewall and front end a little then paint...Once it was out I would probably be tempted to install the engine and tranny as a whole ? how hard is this I know the hood would have to be removed, would I have to remove the front fenderst and panels too and the radiator ?

A cherry-picker from HF costs $160. Get that, plus a load leveler ($30). Under $200 and you have everything you need to get the engine out, and the new one back in (from a tool perspective).

Taking the engine out is pretty straightforward....just start undoing bolts and wires, eventually you won't have any more big ones left to undo, and it'll come out

You really only need to keep an eye on a few majore wiring connections (the places where old and new interface, like the starter wiring or if you are re-using any old alternator wiring). Even then, you can pretty much take it ALL out, as you'll end up re-doing a bunch of it anyway when the ls wiring goes in.

PLUS, without knowing exactly where the trans is going to sit, I wouldn't pay someone else just to seat the engine. Do it yourself and you can adjust things like exact position, trans xmember postion, and mounting angle (shoot for 3-4* down).

[desertdogg]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

A cherry-picker from HF costs $160. Get thatI'm gong to ing to give it a shot plus a load leveler ($30). Under $200 and you have everything you need to get the engine out, and the new one back in (from a tool perspective).

Taking the engine out is pretty straightforward....just start undoing bolts and wires, eventually you won't have any more big ones left to undo, and it'll come out

You really only need to keep an eye on a few majore wiring connections (the places where old and new interface, like the starter wiring or if you are re-using any old alternator wiring). Even then, you can pretty much take it ALL out, as you'll end up re-doing a bunch of it anyway when the ls wiring goes in.

PLUS, without knowing exactly where the trans is going to sit, I wouldn't pay someone else just to seat the engine. Do it yourself and you can adjust things like exact position, trans xmember postion, and mounting angle (shoot for 3-4* down).

Thanks BR3W That is exactly whatwhat I was hoping someone would say. Im going to give it a try. Do you think I need the train would go in easy attached to the engine? Or should I do them separately? Thanks again in advance

[desertdogg]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

A cherry-picker from HF costs $160. Get thatI'm gong to ing to give it a shot plus a load leveler ($30). Under $200 and you have everything you need to get the engine out, and the new one back in (from a tool perspective).

Taking the engine out is pretty straightforward....just start undoing bolts and wires, eventually you won't have any more big ones left to undo, and it'll come out

You really only need to keep an eye on a few majore wiring connections (the places where old and new interface, like the starter wiring or if you are re-using any old alternator wiring). Even then, you can pretty much take it ALL out, as you'll end up re-doing a bunch of it anyway when the ls wiring goes in.

PLUS, without knowing exactly where the trans is going to sit, I wouldn't pay someone else just to seat the engine. Do it yourself and you can adjust things like exact position, trans xmember postion, and mounting angle (shoot for 3-4* down).

Thanks BR3W That is exactly what I was hoping someone would say. Im going to give it a try. Do you think I need the transmission would go in easy attached to the engine? Or should I do them separately? Thanks again in advance

[Custom 68]

I have always pulled the engine and transmission separate, my buddy always pulls them together.
you need some pretty steep angles to get them all to slip in. Several folks on here will suggest pulling the "dog house" or the front clip there is not too much to get that off and it will make working around it much easier. It can be a bit intimidating to start taking the body apart.

[BR3W CITY]

With the load leveler, getting the angles to take the whole thing out isn't all that bad. We put the truck up on jackstands so we could slide under it easy, then put on the cherrypicker/leveler and started to pull it out. With the truck in the air, the tail of the trans has room to swing down and then come forward and out.

[desertdogg]

Originally Posted by Custom 68

I have always pulled the engine and transmission separate, my buddy always pulls them together.
you need some pretty steep angles to get them all to slip in. Several folks on here will suggest pulling the "dog house" or the front clip there is not too much to get that off and it will make working around it much easier. It can be a bit intimidating to start taking the body apart.

Thanks custom 68 I was thinking about pulling the body parts off but If I can get it out without doing it I think I will try that first I will more than likely have to remove the hood that should be easy enough to do

[desertdogg]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

With the load leveler, getting the angles to take the whole thing out isn't all that bad. We put the truck up on jackstands so we could slide under it easy, then put on the cherrypicker/leveler and started to pull it out. With the truck in the air, the tail of the trans has room to swing down and then come forward and out.

BR3W CITY I really appreciate your encouragement on this and you got me all phsyced on doing it, but please forgive my ignorance or inexperience, Im not sure what a load leveler is and where it is used ?? lol I am a newbie at all this but I cant wait to do it and get my hands dirty, dont get me wrong I am pretty mechanically inclined I just never pulled an engine or installed one either but, always wanted to do it since forever lol !

[desertdogg]

BR3W CITY, Never mind I just googled it, I understand what it does now doh ! Yes I can see how that would come in handy ! getting one of those for sure as well...thanks

[desertdogg]

I thought I would share a pic there is my engine they are going to pull it out tomorrow with the tranny with only 58k miles cant wait till this weekend...gets here Saturday !

[desertdogg]

here is a close up of her

[ls1nova71]

What's wrong with the rest of the truck? Looks like a nice truck and if it only has 58k on it, why are they parting it?

[desertdogg]

They own three dealerships and when they get a trade in they can't sell they part it out

[BR3W CITY]

Desertdogg

If you get the Harbour Frieght or other "less expensive" load-leveler, then do 1 mod to it to make your life easier;

Take the handle off, and tac weld a 14mm nut on the end where it would go. You'll need the extra clearance with the handle off, and using a ratchet or breaker to turn it will end up easier on your wrists. The stock handle is plastic and crappy, and it hits the cherrypicker at max excursion.

The pic below is what you get from parts stores and cheaper tool places.


Pull the handle off and put the nut on, then use a wrench to turn it...the new heavy duty ones come like that, but just incase, here's what I mean.

[desertdogg]

BR3, I can see what your saying how a ratchet would work better. I will definatly take your advice I really appreciate this information especially when it makes life easier ! lol I dont know where I would be without your help and everyone elses...thanks again !

[desertdogg]

Engine and tranny combo came home today

[desertdogg]

[desertdogg]

What is this ?

and what is this. and do I need them ?