Edelbrock Carb

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by MidLifer

Wow this is the first I've read about the fuel pump issue and explains a lot. I have the 1400 (which is a 1406 with an extra vacuum port on it for smog options) and a stock fuel pump, and on a hot engine I often smell gas after I shut it off.

The other issue I've had with my carb is that it is being finicky about the low vacuum I get with my cam. I probably need to break down and spend some time with springs and jets, I even bought the jet kit this winter, but have been too lazy to do the work.

In the collective opinion is it worth $125 to buy an Edelbrock fuel pump?

I wouldn't. Just put a regulator in front of the carb. You can get them for $35 or so.

[Hugh Mongus]

My last truck ('69 swb) came with a holley 750 double pumper. The engine had a mild build and it ran really good. When that carb started giving me problems, I swapped it out with an Edelbrock. While it ran good until I sold it, it didn't have the performance the Holley did. But...when I installed the new engine in my current truck ('71 swb), I installed another Edelbrock. Edelbrocks, for me, are much easier to work on than Holleys.

So in my opinion, Holleys are better for performance and Edelbrocks are good for ease of use.

If use choose an Edelbrock be sure to talk to the tech guys before you mate it with an intake. I just recently found out that that the 1406 and the Performer RPM intake do not work together. I would also buy the rod/spring kit for the carb you decide to buy so you can tune it easily. Although, keep in mind there are numerous combinations of springs, jets, and rods and you may not get everything you need in the prepackaged kit. You can buy everything separately though if the need arises.

Good luck to you!

[willy12844]

I'm having the same problem with the smell of gas in the garage and sometimes is slightly harder both warm and cold. Will buying a $100.00 pressure gauge give or take a few bucks get me any better gas mileage outta my big block???
Bill

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by willy12844

I'm having the same problem with the smell of gas in the garage and sometimes is slightly harder both warm and cold. Will buying a $100.00 pressure gauge give or take a few bucks get me any better gas mileage outta my big block???


Bill

100 bucks!
For a gauge!
You likely need a regulator.
Maybe 40 bucks.
Plus a gauge, maybe 20 more.
Don’t get a liquid filled gauge though. They don’t like heat.

[NoNeck]

In the collective opinion is it worth $125 to buy an Edelbrock fuel pump?

Midlifer -

I wouldn't buy the Edelbrock fuel pump. Just pick up a Fuel Pressure Regulator. It fits between the fuel pump and the carb, ideally in a position so that you can read the gauge. Mr. Gasket sells a nice one for about $30 (I think).

The other option would be to find a STOCK fuel pump that is rated in the 4 to 6 PSI range. The problem with rebuilt auto parts store pumps is in most cases you don't know what you are getting. GM originally offered "HI VOLUME" fuel pumps, but they were generally used on higher horsepower engines (Corvettes, Z28 Camaros and of course Big Blocks).

I think the Edelbrock fuel pumps have been matched to the metering characteristics of their carbs.

Just my 2¢...

POP

[engineer_gregh]

I got tired of adjusting and chasing the idle problem on the BB and broke down and decided to go all Edelbrock from the fuel pump up. I read a couple of threads on the board of pressure regulators leaking so I also decided not to take the chance. Here is the parts list and prices of what I bought and installed. I realize its pricey but it fixed my problem.

350-8124 FUEL LINE BRAID SS BBC $47.95
350-8131 FUEL LINE W/FILT TS/PS P $39.97
350-1722 FUEL PUMP STREET BB-CHEVY $117.57
350-9265 HEAT INSULATOR GASKT OPEN $15.97

[richards72chevy]

My 69 impala never had a problem of running rich or the other problems with not running their fuel pump or regulator.But my truck was a different story.Installed their fuel pump and all the problems I had went away except for the black smoke coming from the exhaust never went away.But that may be another problem.

[Tx Firefighter]

The floats are in the center (I meant relatively) where they're subject to engine heat, compared to a Holley where they are suspended off of the body front and rear and insulated by being surrounded by air.

[NoNeck]

Q: I see fuel dripping from the carburetor boosters at idle, what causes this?

A: Too much fuel pressure usually causes this and often times dirt in the float bowls can do the same. Make sure your fuel pressure does not exceed 6.0 psi, optimum pressure is 5.5 psi.

Pulled directly from the Edelbrock website under troubleshooting.

POP

[MidLifer]

Thanks for all the info guys. FWIW there are multiple reviews online and YouTube videos about the Mr. Gasket Fuel Pressure Regulators leaking. Also with one of those you have to plumb a return line to the fuel tank. I'll start by trying the spacer, and go from there.

I'm getting closer every day to swapping in a LS....

[jrigheimer]

I know i will need and adapter plate, but will i also need a throttle bracket of some kind? What the psi of the mechanical fuel pump

[dirtyjim]

I had to run a regulator on mine after I replaced my fuel pump.
the edelbrock carb was on the truck when I bought it but i'll end up replacing it with a holley or efi in the future.

[MidLifer]

Never mind...I asked a dumb question then found the answer...

BTW I called Edelbrock and they were extremely helpful with my situation. Told me which metering rods and which springs to install, based on my cam spec. Also timing recommendation.

Lastly, they confirmed the fuel pressure issue, so I'll be adding a regulator. You should not put more than 6 lb into an Eddy. My pump puts out 8.5.

[18Z]

I know this is an old thread but I do have a question for Tx firefighter and jmking9. Which phenolic spacer do you recommend for a edelbrock 1406 carb??

Thanks
18Z

[Ironhorse]

Over the years I have run QJs, Carter AFBs (Edelbrock predecessor) current Edelbrocks and Holleys. They all have their issues if not set up correctly and mated to the correct engine, cam, intake, timing, etc. Holleys worked for me racing my '57 2dr on the 1/4 mile but after three or four runs I always had to readjust the float level. Currently I have an original 600 cfm Carter AFB on a Edellbrock Performer RPM intake, 350 ci. and "built" 700R4 in my '71 Chevelle . Runs great with a generic parts store mechanical fuel pump. '71
4x4 truck has a Edelbrock #9625 (625 cfm) on Edlebrock intake, stock 350 and also generic parts store mechanical pump. No fuel regulators on either one but I do run a phenolic spacer on both. No hard hot starts on either. Only issue I have if either vehicle sets for a couple weeks of no run time I do have to prime the carb. Thinking that is due to fuel evaporation from the bowl, may be wrong on that but not a big deal to me.

Carb opinions are like bellybuttons, everybody has one!!

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by 18Z

I know this is an old thread but I do have a question for Tx firefighter and jmking9. Which phenolic spacer do you recommend for a edelbrock 1406 carb??

Thanks
18Z

IBZ, I have a spare phenolic spacer hanging in the shop. Will look at it tomorrow and see if it has any #s or such on it. The ones I use have four individual venture holes to correctly fit the carb base. They ARE NOT a full open hole.

[engineer_gregh]

18Z this is the spacer thats been on my truck since 2014 with no issues. 350-9265 HEAT INSULATOR GASKT

[Eddie H.]

I guess I may as well join in beating this dead horse. I have been running Carter AFB/Edlebrock carbs completely trouble free for more than 40 years. I have never used a fuel pressure regulator or aftermarket fuel pump, and I always use a phenolic spacer to prevent heat soak/percolation. That's just my experience, for whatever it's worth. Other folks may have different results.

[18Z]

Eddie H. Which spacer do you use?

[Eddie H.]

Originally Posted by 18Z

Eddie H. Which spacer do you use?

On my last 2 Edlebrocks, I just used a generic 4 hole 1 inch plastic spacer that I picked up at a swap meet. It really doesn't matter much what you use, as long as it insulates the carburetor from the manifold heat. You could probably make one out of a piece of wood and it would work just fine.

[Ironhorse]

IBZ, pics of the 4 hole style phenolic spacer I use. Will require longer carb studs but they can be had at most decent parts houses, even O'reilly, Auto Zone etc. I DO NOT use the full open QJ style figuring without the 4 smaller seperate venturi openings that match the Carter/lEdelbrock base plate, the full open style would cause a turbulence to the air downflow. ??? Not sure bout that but seems reasonable to me. The spacer is 1'' thick, could use 1/2'' also, the smooth flat portion is the top which goes against the carb baseplate, the more open portion goes to the intake / gasket area. Not familiar with the HVH logo, picked this up at a swap meet for $5 just to have a spare. Hope this helps and good luck with your carb issues.

Got curious and Googled: " HVH Phenolic carb spacer " Came up at being High Velocity Heads, an aftermarket speed/race product company. Spacer sells thru Jegs for $89.00 plus ship so guess the $5 was well spent.

'68OrangeSunshine, thanks for the info on the #9625A carb. I was told it was an Edelbrock when I bought it at a swap meet years ago, $15-20 don't recall for sure. Used an Edelbrock kit for the rebuild and works great, truck is quite healthy when I push the romp on it pedal. Never checked the carb # thru Google, Google is your friend as they say. I use it a lot.

[Myoldtruck]

Im also running a 5psi regulator before the carb. I also had alot of problems with jetting. Doing research the 1406 is jetted leaner than the 1405 manual choke model. I rejetted the 1406 to the 1405 specs. Truck runs very well now, it has a stock mr gasket crate 350.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

'68OrangeSunshine, thanks for the info on the #9625A carb. I was told it was an Edelbrock when I bought it at a swap meet years ago, $15-20 don't recall for sure. Used an Edelbrock kit for the rebuild and works great, truck is quite healthy when I push the romp on it pedal. Never checked the carb # thru Google, Google is your friend as they say. I use it a lot.

Tomato, tomahto. Basicially the same carb with 2 different retail vendors at one time. Now only one.
Like GMC/ Chevy... Rolls Royce/ Bentley. The badging affects the price tag, not the internal quality.
Good score.
Just remember when you call Edelbrock's tech line, don't let on that you have a Carter AFB, they'll dummy up.
Some matches:
Edl-1405 = AFB 9625A
Edl-1400 = AFB 9635 [w/EGR]

['68OrangeSunshine]

Ironhorse: 9625 is a Carter AFB number. I have a Carter AFB 9625A on my V8 350 in a '71 GMC Jimmy [k/5]. I tune it as an Edelbrock 1405 [manual choke]. I always thought it flowed 600 CFM, but there's no way to measure at this end. Carter designed and produced the AFB, then got bought out by Federal Mogul, who continued the "AFB Performance Series" carbs. The same [Weber?] plant was making the same carb for both FM (dba ''Carter'') and Edelbrock. The "Performer" Eddies were shinier and retailed higher for the same carb. Eventually FM dropped out of the carb line, leaving Edselbrock as the only game in town.
About 10 years ago, I put a Holley fuel pressure regulator inline to my AFB on the Jimmy, as advised by the many experts on this board. I wasn't passing AZ emissions, and after trying everything myself, got hold of a pro mechanic. First thing he did was tell me to lose the regulator. I still have it -- in the parts drawer.
Phenolic spacer is a must. I have a 1/2" tall aluminum Offy Squarebore/Spreadbore adapter on the bottom, over my Wieand 8004 intake, and a 1/2'' phenolic 4-hole spacer directly under the 9625A.