Balancer Install Gone Wrong

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by Longhorn 70

also I usually clean the snout of the crank first with solvent. feel for burrs. also feel the inside of the balancer and inspect the keyway inside before reinstall.

I only gave the balancer keyway a glance - I will check it good before the install

[Norgermish]

To those that wrote about damaging the thrust bearing, it is true. But, when instaling a balancer with the hammer and block of wood method if the engine is out of the vehicle, it is possible and necessary to lay the engine on the rear, crank nose pointing up with something supporting the back of the crank to make sure the thrust is pushing forward. When engine is operating thrust is always pushing forward on the backside of the thrust bearing. This relieves the thrust from any undue force on the front side. Also a bit of oil on the crank nose and inside the balancer is very helpful to keep it from binding. Early 327's and 283's, 250's, 230's, all have no threads in the crank. I used to drill and tap all the early cranks for 7/16 UNF bolts in a lathe for my shop and others I worked for. I ground crankshafts for quite a few years. Without threaded nose BFH is necessary

[68_Step]

I bought a balancer puller and installer kit by OTC. With the proper installer it took maybe 2 minutes to finish the job. There was no damage from the 1st failed attempt thank goodness. Thank for the help!