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10-13-2015, 09:45 AM | #1 |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
This is the way I understand it, I may be wrong, but this is what I have gathered from the forum here. The thermostat in the water neck let's the coolant in when the truck gets hot. The temp sensor for the fans needs to come on when the coolant is over a certain temperature to cool down the coolant in the radiator. If you put the temperature sender for the fans in the head, the fans could be coming on when the motor is over temp, but the temp of the coolant may be already cooler. The thermostat and coolant cools the motor, the fans and radiator cool the coolant. I would want the fans to come on when the coolant is over temperature to be able to cool the motor when it flows through the thermostat in the motor. I am not a mechanic and have a thimble full of knowledge on the subject, but that is the way I understand it. I think it mostly evens out once the motor heats up anyway and the fans will be running most of the time anyway.
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10-13-2015, 10:50 AM | #2 |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
Where did you get the inline radiator hose sender adapter?
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10-13-2015, 12:06 PM | #3 |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
Summit racing has a wide selection of diameters and fittings for almost any temp sensor size.
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10-13-2015, 10:11 PM | #4 | |
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Location: Carlsbad, California
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Re: aluminum radiator question
Quote:
It had a 1/8 NPT sender hole and I needed a 3/8 NPT, so I had to drill and tap it. The manufacturer crowded the ground lug hole too close to the sender hole. I had to offset the new bore for the 3/8 tap to increase the space. Luckily I have a Bridgeport which made it easy. Most manufacturers of these parts anodize them for corrosion resistance and cosmetics, but it adds resistance to electrical circuits. Re-cutting my threads eliminated that problem. Both sender and ground thread were re-tapped. Russ
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RC |
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10-17-2015, 11:35 PM | #5 | |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
Quote:
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10-18-2015, 02:55 AM | #6 |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
Coolant flows from the bottom to the top. The T-stat holds the water in the engine so it can pick up as much heat from it, regulating how fast/slow the coolant flows. It is also the second hottest position you can put a sensor. (first being the head) It is an accurate spot. The fans will come on to cool the incoming coolant, since the temperature of the coolant already in the radiator isn't cutting it. It's just more precise reading. Plus, if it's stupid cold outside or you have snow/rain coming though to hit the sensor in the radiator, well that will affect cooling.
Pick a good temp for the sensor and put it in the engine, your choice of where. My 400sb runs warm, so I'm 205 on/185 off in the summer. My fans can't cool it any more than 185. In the winter it's 200/180. My FAST system allows adjustment.
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'68 C10 SWB '85 K30 Blazer |
10-18-2015, 01:34 PM | #7 | |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
Quote:
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71 c-10 Long Bed, under the knife for a No Limit Engineering Wide Ride Chassis Pack and coil over static drop. 07 Silverado Classic 2wd 95 Camaro 427SBC/TH350 |
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10-19-2015, 01:20 AM | #8 |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
I cut the bottom radiator hose about 5" from the radiator. Derale tech said that is where it should be for their PWM setup. The PWM is adjustable, so you can set the temp where you want. It is different than using a fixed sender that turns on at only one temp and the fans turn full speed always.
Russ
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RC |
10-20-2015, 09:56 AM | #9 | |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
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10-13-2015, 01:59 PM | #10 |
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Re: aluminum radiator question
I put mine here, it works fine..
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Thanks, Joe.. 1969 C/10, 348 C.I., 3X2 bbl. V8, 2004r , LWB. |
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