Not enough heat out of a vintage air gen IV system

[aboesec10]

having this issue on mine as well, I've switched the hoses around on the water pump as they both attach there on my engine. no change. Ive programmed a couple of times but maybe its still not opening up? Ive also got issues with the vents changing to the dash setting. Works great on defrost and floor minus being warm at all.

[aboesec10]

if I've got the hoses backwards on the heater core would that kill the flow of water? I've felt the lines several times at with temp gauge at 200, their both warm for about a foot then cool off greatly, It acts as if theres no flow whatsoever.

[Longhornss]

It does not matter what port on the heater core the valve is plumbed into.

The valve depends on the high/low side. In VA case they say the valve should be in the hose going to the intake.

In the case of an LS Swap which is not called out they say the valve should be in the water pump in the line closest to the engine block.

[aboesec10]

cool, I'm pretty darn sure thats the one I've got it plumbed into. Ill double check this evening. Maybe ill try to jump the control valve with 12 volts and see if that opens it up

[Longhornss]

Originally Posted by aboesec10

having this issue on mine as well, I've switched the hoses around on the water pump as they both attach there on my engine. no change. Ive programmed a couple of times but maybe its still not opening up? Ive also got issues with the vents changing to the dash setting. Works great on defrost and floor minus being warm at all.

Which control panel are you using? is it a factory panel that was retrofitted with VA Cable converters? If this is the case it sounds like you may have a wire crossed on the converter.
The Temperature Cable converter should be connected with the White/Red Wire
The Dash, Floor, Defrost should be White/Yellow

[Longhornss]

Originally Posted by aboesec10

cool, I'm pretty darn sure thats the one I've got it plumbed into. Ill double check this evening. Maybe ill try to jump the control valve with 12 volts and see if that opens it up

IF you have a 2 wire control solonoid you can trigger it with 12V and ground you will hear the valve clicking.

the new plastic style 3 Wire may be a little more difficult.

honestly the best way to check if the valve is working is to feel the hoses going into and out of the valve when set to heat mode. Is there a Temperature differential? If there is then there may be an issue with the valve being stuck closed. In which case I MAY try manually over riding the valve to see if that helps.

If you do all this and are still having issues call Vintage Air. Their tech guys are great and know their products.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Longhornss

It does not matter what port on the heater core the valve is plumbed into.

The valve depends on the high/low side. In VA case they say the valve should be in the hose going to the intake.

In the case of an LS Swap which is not called out they say the valve should be in the water pump in the line closest to the engine block.

Isn't that because the LS engines use a "reverse" waterpump?

Originally Posted by Ken J Martin

Well turned out to be a defective thermostat.
Thanks again for all the suggestions.

That's great! So how's the temp now? I have GEN I VA system with cables I installed in 2006 It gets hot as crap.

[aboesec10]

well i checked all wires and their correct. I am running the cable converters and their in the right location. Im gonna call v/a in the morning and get some advice.

[aboesec10]

i got it figured out, the plug where the red/green wires plug into the harness to the solenoid, black, blue, red and a white ground. I didn't have the plug locked into place...... plugged it all the way in and bam..... stupid boo boo