Dirty Dingo LS Low Mount A/C Bracket

[toddoky]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

I'm sure it will fit as the compressor is smaller than the factory one. Was really just wondering how the lines come off the compressor in relation to the frame. If you want to send me one, I'll do some R&D for you......

I'd love to send you one to test fit, but I unfortunately don't have any authority to do so. The best I'll be able to do to help in that regard is to post dimensions on it as we get closer to its release.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by toddoky

I'd love to send you one to test fit, but I unfortunately don't have any authority to do so. The best I'll be able to do to help in that regard is to post dimensions on it as we get closer to its release.

No worries, was just messing with you, .

[shores6]

I've been looking at this mount. Was going to try to use it with my level 3 dropmember. Its kind of my last option. I can't put it up high because of my turbo. But down low is tight because of the pb motor mounts. Anyone used it with a dropmember yet?

[knomadd]

Since this thread is supposed to be about the Dirty Dingo mounts, here are some pics of that bracket installed into my 71 factory frame, factory cross member.







I'm using 45* EZ Clip fittings for the lines, in case anyone is wondering.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by knomadd

Since this thread is supposed to be about the Dirty Dingo mounts, here are some pics of that bracket installed into my 71 factory frame, factory cross member.







I'm using 45* EZ Clip fittings for the lines, in case anyone is wondering.

That looks good!

[toddoky]

That DD mount seems to provide good fitment in your application...nice pics.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Originally Posted by knomadd

Since this thread is supposed to be about the Dirty Dingo mounts, here are some pics of that bracket installed into my 71 factory frame, factory cross member.







I'm using 45* EZ Clip fittings for the lines, in case anyone is wondering.

what headers are you using brother?

[knomadd]

Hey Ruben, I will be using Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, 324Y-C to be exact.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Originally Posted by knomadd

Hey Ruben, I will be using Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, 324Y-C to be exact.

thx for the info brother

[jessemthompson]

I'm considering the Alan grove low bracket. I have a high mount kwik bracket right now and it throws the belt if I get on it. Everything's lined up, I think the tensioner isn't keeping things tight enough and it's brand new. I have ECE motor mounts, so I believe my sanden compressor will fit down there okay.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

So bottom line, will this bracket clear the frame with the mounts described?

[knomadd]

I don't see why it wouldn't. I don't have any experience with the Holley mounts, but I don't suppose they will raise or lower the engine much. If they raise the engine, it should be fine. If it lowers it, you'll possibly have other issues to work with too, like the oil pan.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by jessemthompson

I'm considering the Alan grove low bracket. I have a high mount kwik bracket right now and it throws the belt if I get on it. Everything's lined up, I think the tensioner isn't keeping things tight enough and it's brand new. I have ECE motor mounts, so I believe my sanden compressor will fit down there okay.

Would you like to sell your Kwik set up??

[Rsj4h]

Anybody ever try the Dirty Dingo or Holley low mount on their 73-87 2wd C10 with the Holley mounts?

[Slowguy]

Not to raise up an old thread, but I didn't see any resolution to this really. I need to keep my compressor in the stock location because I plan to have a passenger side log manifold style single turbo above. It seems the options appear to be:

1: keep the stock compressor with stock bracket and modify the frame to deal with refrigerant lines and compressor clearances. This will not allow the use of sliding engine mount brackets.

2: Dirty dingo bracket with small sanden compressor. This seems to be the best fitting option as the compressor is compact and very tight to the block. I have POL tubular perches and was going to buy a sliding "adjust2fit" bracket to go with the POL poly mounts I already have.

3: Alan grove bracket which will work, but uses a larger sanden compressor. Might be a tighter fit? May or may not work with adjustable engine mounts?

With the LQ4 LS gen3 truck engine, is it necessary that I need adjustable "sliding" engine brackets? I won't know this (unless someone chimes in) until I actually fit the engine in place.

It would be nice to get what I need so I don't have to mess around with dry fitting the cab just to see if the block will clear the firewall etc. It is so much nicer to mount all the brake lines, fuel lines, air ride lines, wiring, etc, without the cab in place. I'll take more time and it'll be a much prettier result without the cab set in place.

[Rsj4h]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

Not to raise up an old thread, but I didn't see any resolution to this really. I need to keep my compressor in the stock location because I plan to have a passenger side log manifold style single turbo above. It seems the options appear to be:

1: keep the stock compressor with stock bracket and modify the frame to deal with refrigerant lines and compressor clearances. This will not allow the use of sliding engine mount brackets.

2: Dirty dingo bracket with small sanden compressor. This seems to be the best fitting option as the compressor is compact and very tight to the block. I have POL tubular perches and was going to buy a sliding "adjust2fit" bracket to go with the POL poly mounts I already have.

3: Alan grove bracket which will work, but uses a larger sanden compressor. Might be a tighter fit? May or may not work with adjustable engine mounts?

With the LQ4 LS gen3 truck engine, is it necessary that I need adjustable "sliding" engine brackets? I won't know this (unless someone chimes in) until I actually fit the engine in place.

It would be nice to get what I need so I don't have to mess around with dry fitting the cab just to see if the block will clear the firewall etc. It is so much nicer to mount all the brake lines, fuel lines, air ride lines, wiring, etc, without the cab in place. I'll take more time and it'll be a much prettier result without the cab set in place.

Yeah I ended up going with the Dirty Dingo mount and small Sanden compressor, worked out perfectly!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Slowguy]

did you need or use adjustable engine mounts to slide the engine forward or backward for clearances to the cab/firewall?

[knomadd]

I did not buy the slider kind of adapters, but I did have the adjustable kind (3 different motor mount positions). The sliders would have potentially been easier to get the engine in the right spot, but I did move them and the engine perches about 4 times to get the cab and crossmember clearances just right. There is absolutely NO WAY I'd try to get the engine mounted and "set" without at least checking the firewall clearance. There isn't a lot of movement front to back to fit between the firewall, radiator and crossmember.

[Slowguy]

Finally came in and got it installed. Looks like it may work. Fits nicely. I’ll know more when I get the engine installed on the frame.

[Ford Assassin]

Digging up an old post yet again....


I am curious and concerned on how well a mini Sanden would preform on an otherwise stock AC system on a crew cab squarebody. Old Air suggested a Sanden 709 to replace the HR6 (A6 style) compressor.

I too am going to run a turbo LS setup like the rest of my rides.