1972 GMC Jimmy PENNY

[Graham57a]

So at this point I am down to the following (roughly in order of importance)

- replace all (4) headlights
- powdercoat and mount my 15x8 steelies (I picked up a set of GMC stainless caps already)
- locate and install rear hatch struts and latch keepers
- pickup and install 4x4 shift knob
- repaint new door panels and install
- repaint new sun visors and install
- replace leaking gaskets/rubber seals at door glass
- redo entire exhaust system and mufflers
- fix steering slop
- pull motor, fix oil leak, all new seals, re-paint, put back in
- replace piece of broken glass in top
- fix AC/diagnose issue

I used a spot sand blaster and blasted all of the rust in the kick panels and under the sill plates in the rockers and used a rust sealing primer to neutralize those areas. I started to do the same in the quarters and rockers but wanted to back up do some more homework on what products to use.

My next milestone will be to remove the top. I have never done it before but did some research and I think I am going to back her up to my 68 gmc in the driveway and stand up in the back of the blazer and pick the top up on my back and walk from the blazer into the bed of the pickup and set it down on the bed rails. We will see, it sounds fairly easy

I also dropped the fuel tank the other day thinking I needed to replace my sending unit. I plugged up my new sender and moved the float up and down and still had the same result, the needle wouldn't move past 1/4 tank. My next guess was the resistor on the back of the gauge. Luckily I had an extra from a spare cluster so I pulled the cluster, replaced the resistor, and the gauge works fine now. A little frustrating after all that but at least it's fixed and I don't have to worry about running out of gas.

[Graham57a]

A few pictures before some of the progress...

[Graham57a]

....

[Graham57a]

Here is the interior after cleaning the cluster, installing the gas pedal, and blasting the rust in the kick panels. The black steering wheel has been driving me crazy so I had a pretty rough saddle one on the shelf that I threw in the truck and ordered a saddle GMC button that should be here Wednesday. I'll post a pic of the new wheel when the button shows up.

[Graham57a]

I found some pictures of this old truck online and it's almost identical to mine. I thought they would be a good reference point for the goal once I'm done working on this thing. The only difference I see would be the wheel covers.

[Graham57a]

A few more

[Graham57a]

Last one for the day, stay tuned for some more updates

[lolife99]

Man,... I love this Jimmy.

[preciador6]

Nice I'm looking for a driver side fender for my K5 this og color.

[lks dcvn]

a few notes -

- replacing headlights - are you going with HIDs or upgrading the stock wiring first to remove the limitations of the stock wiring/voltage running through the headlight switch?

- removing the top by yourself may not be the best approach even if you are walking it between PENNY and your 68 bed. Grab a buddy (or two) to spread the load and prevent any damage to either truck. I have seen people use a hoist, 2 post lift, etc. to assist in the process as well.

- exhaust swap - I have used the heartthrob exhaust (can get steel and also stainless for a bit more) three times now which is a direct bolt in full dual manifold back exhaust. I have sold the trucks before I ever had an issue with the exhaust system. The system comes with mufflers that sounds pretty good. You could always swap the mufflers out for your own preference in sound.

- slop in steering - best bang for the buck is to swap to the redhead steering gear (stock or quick ratio) if yours is loose and then check all column bearings and steering connecting points to make sure there is little to no slop during turning of the wheel. I just did the swap on my 71 project and it drives a lot better. I also did the lower column bearing in the process as it was toast.

The truck looks good and it is really coming together - keep us posted on progress!

[Graham57a]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

a few notes -

- replacing headlights - are you going with HIDs or upgrading the stock wiring first to remove the limitations of the stock wiring/voltage running through the headlight switch?

- removing the top by yourself may not be the best approach even if you are walking it between PENNY and your 68 bed. Grab a buddy (or two) to spread the load and prevent any damage to either truck. I have seen people use a hoist, 2 post lift, etc. to assist in the process as well.

- exhaust swap - I have used the heartthrob exhaust (can get steel and also stainless for a bit more) three times now which is a direct bolt in full dual manifold back exhaust. I have sold the trucks before I ever had an issue with the exhaust system. The system comes with mufflers that sounds pretty good. You could always swap the mufflers out for your own preference in sound.

- slop in steering - best bang for the buck is to swap to the redhead steering gear (stock or quick ratio) if yours is loose and then check all column bearings and steering connecting points to make sure there is little to no slop during turning of the wheel. I just did the swap on my 71 project and it drives a lot better. I also did the lower column bearing in the process as it was toast.

The truck looks good and it is really coming together - keep us posted on progress!

Thanks man,
I was just going to grab a see of headlights from the parts store, that's what I'm running on my other trucks and they do fine. I typically don't drive at night enough to be concerned about it. I'm trying to decide between doing a complete exhaust swap or just changing out the glass packs for some flow masters. The pipe is in decent shape but it's all 2" and ultimately i would wanna change to 2.5"

[Graham57a]

I forgot I had powder coated the air cleaner. It was pretty rusty so I wanted to preserve it more than anything. I also found these grease markings under the LR quarter

[Graham57a]

I got bored on Monday and was really curious so I enlisted the help of a buddy and pulled the top off

[Graham57a]

Aaaaandddd what I found was a little disheartening

[Graham57a]

I sure hate the r word. I used a wire wheel to clean everything up and then used a rust converter to seal it. Anyone have experience fixing rust here? I'm not scared of the metal work but it'll be challenging where it's 3 walls thick

[Graham57a]

I also found my missing hubcap at one of my local spots. Pic of the dash to show the repainted needles and working fuel gauge. I thought I had fixed the temp but drove it some Monday and the needle didn't move, picking up a new temp sender tomorrow

[Graham57a]

Last few, picked up some parts on eBay and at one of my local spots. 4wd shift knob, horn button, hatch parts, and missing custom emblem. I think I have almost everything I need now, at least the original stuff that's hard to find

[Graham57a]

Don't think I ever posted this, a little before and after of the rust treatment. I used a spot sand blaster and blasted the rust back to clean metal and then treated with rust preventing paint.

[briank]

Nice Jimmy, Im getting a California jimmy as well that has a similar spot on the passenger floor as well as a spot on the pass side windshield frame.Your floor looks considerably better...what did you use on the floor?

[Graham57a]

Originally Posted by briank

Nice Jimmy, Im getting a California jimmy as well that has a similar spot on the passenger floor as well as a spot on the pass side windshield frame.Your floor looks considerably better...what did you use on the floor?

Thanks man, I used a rustoleum product to seal it up. They say you can spray it directly onto active rust but I like removing the bad metal and flakes of rust at least.

[Tom Vogel]

Actually, that truck is pretty solid.

[dirish]

Great looking Jimmy, great find.

[Graham57a]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Actually, that truck is pretty solid.

Thanks man, is the rust on the top of the bed rails common? I'm not used to these things so I'm not sure where to look.

Originally Posted by dirish

Great looking Jimmy, great find.

Thanks man, I think its the perfect amount of driver but nice. It cant be too nice or I'll be afraid to drive it

[Graham57a]

I did spend some time last weekend under the hood of this thing. I was battling the temp gauge and it's next to impossible to get the sender out of the head with the manifolds on so I took the opportunity to replace the manifold gaskets (It needed them pretty badly). I pulled everything apart and discovered that my heads were most likely changed at some point, the temp sender was much smaller in diameter then the factory comparisons I had. I tried to read the stamp on the block to verify the origin of the motor but it was pretty hard to read. Either way, I am leaving everything in and together.

I replaced the temp sender, ran a new wire from the firewall to the head, fired her up and the temp gauge works great. The new manifold gaskets made a huge difference and reduced the overall exhaust sound to about half of what it was. I am really pleased with how everything is coming together. I am picking up my 15x8 rallies from the sand blaster tomorrow, I am hoping to powdercoat them Thursday and would like to have mounted next week sometime.

[Tom Vogel]

[QUOTE=Graham57a;7966363]Thanks man, is the rust on the top of the bed rails common? I'm not used to these things so I'm not sure where to look.

That seems an unusual spot, but an easy fix. You really have very little to fix in the way of rust on that truck. I would be thrilled if I were you.