1952 GMC "Demon Speeding" Project

[stesch_c10]

Alright so after looking at oldmans photos and measurments it looks like my front end has been widened. after looking at the cut cross member in the front... i would have to say it has been. would that have been for the c10 suspension to fit correctly? Oh the stuff you find after you have bought something haha

[stesch_c10]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

well..your axle is a 12 bolt car axle...
I assume your frame is stock 1952...pretty sure its not a 70s truck...
as for where to start and not knowing how your fab skills are..my .02cents of advise is I would scrap all that mangled up stuff and start over..keeping in mind the frames already been cut and bent..and specially since you've got a s10 frame..but again the fab skill thing comes into play..there will be a good deal of fab involved...before you commit to the s10 I recommend you read thru skymangs s10/AD thread..joedoh has also done several of these swaps...at least with the s10 you won't have to worry about squaring up a frame and suspension. .big thing is take it in little bites..don't get discouraged. .

Um, do you think its a 12 bolt rear end... or a 10 bolt? maybe im not understand it but i only count 10 bolts. maybe its just a cover but.. am i wrong?

[mongocanfly]

correctamoondoe.....10 bolt..aka a 8.2"....NOT 12 bolt...my bad ...I just glanced at the pic of half the cover on a very small screen with poor eyesight..that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it...haha..
and yes ...your frame was widened to match the c10 crossmember...if you removed the c10 crossmember you should be able to pull the frame back together and repair it ...but that would best be done on a frame jig to make sure you get it all back square and not offset...each frame rail would need to be relocated to the proper postition before rewelding..if you just tried pulling it together one side might move and the other not move and would cause your front end to ne off center..

[mongocanfly]

here's a good listing of diff covers.https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ential.975907/

[stesch_c10]

yup 8.2. Well... not i don't know what to do. I'd like to keep stock frame because everything is already mounted (don't have to mess with body, running, bumper mounts and such. And yes I have tried to bookmark all the thread about s10 swaps. The thing that really sucks is half of those threads are useless with all the pictures being taken away from photobucket.

I wonder if I could find a replacement front cross member and take the old out and replace with a new old one. OR like you guys said, maybe try and get it straight again and weld it back together... any advice?

[mongocanfly]

I agree with keeping your original frame if possible. ..I can't on mine because my frame is rusted completely in to..obviously all the brackets and mounts are already in place...obviously the c10 front is to wide.. obviously the frame has been cut...since you have a buddy with a frame machine you've got a leg up on it..you could split the c10 crossmember and narrow it and repair the frame back to stock width..and keep the c10 front
or remove the c10 front and repair the frame back to factory and find a stock front or a better choice of a arm suspension...there are some very high quality crossmember kits out there..
either way..if I was gonna keep the factory frame I'd try to repair it back to factory specs
lots of options. ..

[52ratrod]

I had the same problem with my 52 chevy when i bought it. The only difference is they used the complete 67 to 72 C10 frame with a 12 bolt rear end. The front clip is garbage for what you want to do im sure. The track width will be to wide and your going to have problems trying to get the tires in the fenders.

If you have the S10 then use it. There is threads on here that go step by step on how to do the S10 vonversion. I wouldnt care for the frame you have cause it looks chopped any way.

Measure your rear diff hub to hub and if its high 50" or low 60" then use that in the s10. A 10 bolt would probably be stronger then the stock S10.

[mobileortho]

That front end can work if everything is squared as mentioned before. With proper offset rims it can tuck in under the fenders as well. I drove mine for years with that setup before swapping to a MMII. The only reason I changed it out was I wanted a lower stance and to get that from the C10 ifs it would require major mods.

[stesch_c10]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

That front end can work if everything is squared as mentioned before. With proper offset rims it can tuck in under the fenders as well. I drove mine for years with that setup before swapping to a MMII. The only reason I changed it out was I wanted a lower stance and to get that from the C10 ifs it would require major mods.

thats why im wondering if the s10 would be a better option. the front if already bagged, (although its been about 7 years since its been aired up or checked in on.

[stesch_c10]

Well this happened tonight. got a little bored. worked all day, working tomorrow. ugh. So i said screw it, I'm taking that engine out. Wasn't really that hard considering most of it was all disconnected to begin with haha.

I talked to a friend who has an old chevy like this. I keep going to him for help and inspiration and tips. He was going over the options with me. If i use the s10 frame. I will have to either redo the air bags (its been 7 years since they have been ran or operated) Or put the coils back in (the frame is cut for the air bags), and since I haven't updated anything on it for 10 years plus, id have to replace all bushings and all that crap. Then still have to build the brackets for bed, cab, runnings, radiator and everything else.

Or keep the stock frame, Roll it across the street and 2 houses down to the auto body guy that i know. Have him get it all straight and weld cross member back together. roll it back home and take out the c10 suspension (its only bolted it). Bite the bullet and buy a mustang 2 kit and crossmember. Put that in and be all set to have a suspension. Then i wouldn't have to mess with bed, cab and such mounts.

[mongocanfly]

THAT...sounds like a solid plan...

[stesch_c10]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

THAT...sounds like a solid plan...

well i gotta figure something out, otherwise i will be sitting here with no goal and end up spending money on things i really won't need.

Hey mongocanfly, do you know how wide the rear axle, hub to hub, should be? Im wondering if my rear axle is too wide as it is.

[mongocanfly]

I think orig axle is 61-62" hub2hub

[stesch_c10]

anyone want to buy the engine and tranny? or should i keep the tranny for the 350?

[mongocanfly]

that engine/tranny may be a hard sell unless you find someome that's into original trucks...that tranny wouldn't last long behind a 350 I don't think but I'm not sure which one you have..

[Russell Ashley]

I think I see an EGR valve on that engine which makes me think it's a later model so wouldn't be correct for an original restoration. If it's in good condition I'd keep it, add dual exhaust and carbs, and drive it. It would be more unique than the common SBC or LS swap.

[stesch_c10]

if i got the numbers off the side of the block, could someone look it up for me. or show me where to go to look up what engine it is?

[stesch_c10]

well i found the numbers, tried to look them up and couldn't find anything, so i googled the number and i found more threads about people, like me, looking for exact cast number and not finding it on cast number websites.
cast number is 3994257 and from what other people finally found out is that it is from a 67-72, 250 4.1L