47-55.1 AD wiring

[Clarance J]

Hey guys. I've got 2 cents to throw into the bucket. This is the kit I bought in 2010. I bought it because of the price and it looked complete enough to get me started and was what I could afford at the time.

Like a lot of you out there I had never wired up a complete system before. When I opened the box and saw all those wires I thought what have I gotten myself into this time.

Now about the kit. It was just like it stated. The wires were all long enough for the front and rear. They were labeled every 4 inches which made it easy to keep track of. They had the correct color GM code.

The instruction sheets that came with the kit were easy to follow and showed all the different systems like dash layout, charging system, ignition, plus wiring the column for all the lights and turn signals.

All in all it worked out for me. I would buy this kit again. Time wise the job took me about 2 weeks to do.

Good luck on your wiring.

Earl

[Matt_50]

Im liking the feedback on the wiring, which should be here next week. What ignition switch and light switch do you guys recommend?

[Matt_50]

Got my wiring in. Might be a few days until I do anything though. Between the weather and my teacher certification tests... my hands are tied.

[SFFD103]

@Matt50....the kit looks nice how do you like the quality?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Im liking the feedback on the wiring, which should be here next week. What ignition switch and light switch do you guys recommend?

Both my ignition and my light switch were generic/universal ones. Worked great. You have to make a small decision on if you want the original push button start as opposed to a more modern key turn start. Ignition module I grabbed from the auto parts store for the dash mount version. It has the turn to start and an Accessory option, light switch was at a car show with zero instructions. Looks just like this one...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...CABEgIbHvD_BwE

[Matt_50]

I have gotten a few things done inside the cab and am trying to plan a few things.

I'm having to order the paint color for the dash. It's a nice brown I've seen on the site here. The underside if dash is as cleaned out as I can get it, and I sprayed rust killer/primer for a nice clean look, and to get in the little areas I couldn't reach.

Looks like I can go universal on light switch and ignition right? Any tips I should know?

I've decided on the tan 5 inch quad dolphin gauges too. I was going to go with a more original look, but decided that if I'm gonna stare at them a whole lot, I want something a little more modernish to look at.

I don't think these come with built in lights for turn signals and headlights being on. Not sure I like that. Anyone recommend a good alternative but close to same price? Or good ideas to where to add the lights?

Lastly, photbucket has made to many pictures disappear. Search pulls up a lot of you have done diy wiper motor conversions. Anyone got a link to a thread that still has pics?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

I have gotten a few things done inside the cab and am trying to plan a few things.

I'm having to order the paint color for the dash. It's a nice brown I've seen on the site here. The underside if dash is as cleaned out as I can get it, and I sprayed rust killer/primer for a nice clean look, and to get in the little areas I couldn't reach.

Looks like I can go universal on light switch and ignition right? Any tips I should know?

I've decided on the tan 5 inch quad dolphin gauges too. I was going to go with a more original look, but decided that if I'm gonna stare at them a whole lot, I want something a little more modernish to look at.

I don't think these come with built in lights for turn signals and headlights being on. Not sure I like that. Anyone recommend a good alternative but close to same price? Or good ideas to where to add the lights?

Lastly, photbucket has made to many pictures disappear. Search pulls up a lot of you have done diy wiper motor conversions. Anyone got a link to a thread that still has pics?

I've got three!

1. The generic light switch may not have a low and high beam peg to attach a wire. I had to run a wire from low beam to the "dimmer" switch then ran the low wire off one peg of the dimmer and high beam off the other. The dimmer switch was also a generic one.

2. Figure out how to mount the fuse box before running any wires. Only after I had run half my wires did I realize my fuse box was upside down and I couldn't get the wires routed cleanly

3. Oh one more for good measure. Buy a couple of packs of those wire terminators to cap off any unused circuits. Twice now I've blown fuse because I left an unused circuit coiled up under the dash and it touched metal just right....bzzzzzt .

[Matt_50]

Thanks. So look for a switch that specifically says low and high? Umm, may be a dumb question, but does my truck have both? I bought it with front partially disassembled but I didn't see and lights behind grille or anything.

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

I have gotten a few things done inside the cab and am trying to plan a few things.

I'm having to order the paint color for the dash. It's a nice brown I've seen on the site here. The underside if dash is as cleaned out as I can get it, and I sprayed rust killer/primer for a nice clean look, and to get in the little areas I couldn't reach.

Looks like I can go universal on light switch and ignition right? Any tips I should know?

I've decided on the tan 5 inch quad dolphin gauges too. I was going to go with a more original look, but decided that if I'm gonna stare at them a whole lot, I want something a little more modernish to look at.

I don't think these come with built in lights for turn signals and headlights being on. Not sure I like that. Anyone recommend a good alternative but close to same price? Or good ideas to where to add the lights?

Lastly, photbucket has made to many pictures disappear. Search pulls up a lot of you have done diy wiper motor conversions. Anyone got a link to a thread that still has pics?

Here is one. I know there are more. I will keep looking. Clay

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=blazer+wiper

[Matt_50]

Thanks Clay, good info but I can't see the pics. Do I need a photobucket account? Or did photbucket do something recently?

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Thanks Clay, good info but I can't see the pics. Do I need a photobucket account? Or did photbucket do something recently?

Matt_50, I don't have a clue. I do not have photobucket. I also have bookmarked threads that I wanted to keep and I can't see the pictures anymore. This one I can see the pictures and that's why I sent it. I apologize for the screw up. Again, I don't have a clue. Clay

[Matt_50]

Ah man, you can see them? Theres a bunch of threads I wished I could have seen the pics in. Maybe someone else will chime in on this. Thanks though dude, no need to apologize.

[Matt_50]

Gigamanx, something like this? How do I know correct amperage?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80153

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Gigamanx, something like this? How do I know correct amperage?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80153

Exactly like that.

Amperage is maybe 25-30a. Ignition only sends a small amount back to the starter (or in my case the neutral safety switch). I don't know the details of how the starter knows to engage, but its definitely not the 500amps going through that key switch If I were to guess, I'd say its a solenoid in the starter that is engaging both the start gear and closing the circuit for power from the big positive battery cable you've attached to the starter peg.

[dsraven]

the ignition switch sends power to the solenoid on the starter which is like an electrically operated switch that engages the starter drive into the flywheel and also sends power to the starter motor simutaneously. if you have the old "step on the starter" pedal style of starter still bolted onto the engine then you have a mechanical linkage that did this when you stepped on the pedal and you will need to swap out to a different style that has the required solenoid. not sure but it may be just a solenoid swap on the existing starter. if you need to swap the starter then maybe look into a 12 volt conversion starter but research it first ecause there are also different flywheels for the 12 volt starters and they have different number of teeth and possibly a different size hole in the middle.
if you have a v8 swap then disregard all the starter talk, you already have the electric solenoid on the starter.
for amperage draw the solenoid on the starter will not draw more than the ign switch from summit but if you need to run other circuits for stuff that may draw more than the switch will handle you can simply use the switch to turn on a relay which is rated for that circuits draw. that is why you see a bank of relays under the hood of newer vehicles, so the dash switches can be smaller and radiate less heat under the plastic dash. the switch in the dash is just turning on a relay so a small signal wire is all that is required from the switch to the relay.

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Ah man, you can see them? Theres a bunch of threads I wished I could have seen the pics in. Maybe someone else will chime in on this. Thanks though dude, no need to apologize.

If I can see them, I must assume I can print them. I would be glad to print these pictures and either attach them to an e-mail or put them in an envelope and mail them to you. My e-mail is csjeter@suddenlink.net if you want to respond with either. Clay

[Matt_50]

Dsraven I did do a v8 swap. So the switch I listed should be fine? Radio, lights, phone charger... I do plan on heater and a/c... possibly electric fan. Not sure what all runs through the switch, or what just has a relay wire.

Clay, I'll send an email, thanks

[Richard2112]

Looking to re-wire next summer. This thread will be handy.

[dsraven]

maybe this chart will help you choose wire size for current draw and circuit length. you can also run a high draw breaker somewhwere near the battery (so short unfused run), then from there to a strip of auto reset breakers which have a common feeder bar connected to that feed wire (of a wire gauge appropriate for the draw from ALL those auto rest breakers on the strip). the auto reset breakers can be purchased on a holder strip for ease of mounting and also this works well if you connect them all across the top with that common bar which is power feed from the high draw breaker.
the same idea can be used for a relay center where the power for the relays comes from auto reset breaker strip above. each relay gets a feed from the circuit breaker above it.
if that makes sense

[dsraven]

here is a quick read on the relays and how they are wired up for different applications
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html

you can also find items like this locally most likely
http://www.simplysplitcharge.co.uk/s...product_id=640

you will likely want to wire a relay into the circuit for high draw items that are switched on for extended periods, like headlights, heater fan, rad cooling fan, if you have one, electric wipers, driving lights etc, and also some intermittent high draw items like the horn. it would be a great time to install a daytime running light relay if you plan on having that safety item. if so, you can wire the tail lights in the circuit so you don't drive around in the dusk with no tail lights because you forgot to turn them on.

[Matt_50]

Thanks, I'll be doing my homework lol. Where is a good place to put a relay bank? Just on firewall?

Ok this may sound dumb but can we clarify the lights on the front?

Did the big fender lights work as the high beams? This makes sense but what acted as running lights and what were turn signal lights? Aside from the fenders, there are a couple tiny lights inside the grille. Turn signals?

I was looking at some headlight bulbs that had built in turn signals... I'm assuming the headlight can be off for signal to work or do the lights stay on?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Thanks, I'll be doing my homework lol. Where is a good place to put a relay bank? Just on firewall?

Ok this may sound dumb but can we clarify the lights on the front?

Did the big fender lights work as the high beams? This makes sense but what acted as running lights and what were turn signal lights? Aside from the fenders, there are a couple tiny lights inside the grille. Turn signals?

I was looking at some headlight bulbs that had built in turn signals... I'm assuming the headlight can be off for signal to work or do the lights stay on?

ooh, I just did my lights and had a similar thread asking how the rear tail lights work for park, stop, and turn.

Those big glass headlights in the fender are dual filament. They have both high and low beam. On the back you'll see a three prong plug. One is high, one low, one ground. Works great.

For front "running lights" I have the two rectangle ones that go in each side of the grill. These lights are dim as running lights and when I hit the turn signal, the correct side blinks at a brighter level. I'm considering switching them to amber just because the clear lenses don't seem turn-signaly enough for safety.


https://www.classicparts.com/1947-53...ctinfo/47-012/

The rear lights are where it gets real interesting. They are little squares with turn, running, and "park" lights. Works the same way...the running light is dim, the turn signal is super bright and the brake pedal will light both sides up brightly. The wiring harness is smart enough to know that if you have the brake pedal down and the turn signal on, one of those lights needs to turn on and off still.

[Matt_50]

Thanks again, yea I don't have any headlights, one of the grille lights I think was messed up, and no rear lights at all. The headlights shouldnt be a problem... not sure what ill use the rear lights though.

Do I need a relay for like.. everything? Every major circuit?

[Matt_50]

Dsraven, that 2nd link looks like what I thought I'd need. Honestly, I've never used the top link before. Any advice?

[dsraven]

the need for a relay is partially dependent on what type of switch you use and also the guage of the wire supplied in the harness kit. go with the chart for wire guage you need and check out the spec sheet for the accesory you are wiring up for the expected draw and then check that against the expected length of run (use a string to run out a fake expected wire run and then measure the string if you are unsure how long the run will be. add some to the length if anything so you don't under estimate the run length and get an excessive voltage drop in the end of your circuit). if the need comes up for the relay then the harness wire becomes the signal wire to turn on the relay and you run the requred wire guage from there forward to the accesory. you also need to run matching ground wire guage to a good ground andmake sure there are body, frame, engine ground cables in place. install all the relays in an easily accessed area but out of the way for road dirt and excessive heat. under the dash works well if you have the room because there is less chance things get wet. some guys will install the relays behind the glove box but that won't work if you plan on having a/c because that area will be spoken for. use double wall shrink tube on all the connections irregardless. get yourself a good pair of stripping/crimping pliers as well. I have a set of strippers and a seperate plier that crimps only. I like this because I don't like to have the crimper or stripper inside the handle area of the tool I like all the workings of the tool to be on the tip of the tool. sometimes that is important in a tight work area. there are some whizzy crimping tools out there with interchangeable tips etc but remember the basics, don't over strip, don't over crimp and try not to twist the wire after it is crimped because that causes strands to overlap each other inside the barrel of the connector and this can cause the wire strands to break. try not to use a crimper that only flattens the barrel of the connector because this usually allows the wire to pull out later. use double wall shrink tube over a bare terminal (I hardly ever use the connectors with the plastic covering simply because I always shrink tube anyway and also I like to see the quality of the crimp), tug on the connection after the criming but before the shrink tube. this will let you know if the crimp is holding.
you can also use a large junction terminal to bring big battery power to an area and junction from that to supply power to a relay block or an automatic reset circuit breaker block. you could use a maxi ATO style fuse at the battery end of that to protect that battery feed in case of a short in the circuit before the relays/breakers.

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/au...tion_chart.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/American-Auto.../dp/B005JUWZY0


I googled automotive relay block and this came up, looks interesting with an OEM looking box. it holds 12 relays which is overkill unless you have a whack of stuff to run.

https://www.online-led-store.com/switches-relays

or this from littelfuse
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/f...y-sockets.aspx

the whole littelfuse page
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/f...tribution.aspx

more stuff from amazon site
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-OLS-Rela...8&s=automotive