47-55.1 Brake lines

[Matt_50]

No kidding? This nickel alloy bends that well? I've had to bend replacement lines a little bit on a few cars and I know the steel can be touchy...

That tool looks nice and simple, got a link?

[mikebte]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

No kidding? This nickel alloy bends that well? I've had to bend replacement lines a little bit on a few cars and I know the steel can be touchy...

That tool looks nice and simple, got a link?

Ya, bends nice. I still use my bending tool to try and make it look nicer. But it bends well.

The tool is really only for brakes lines, limited sizes.


OEMTOOLS 24364 In Line Flaring Tool Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DO9142G..._tGkCBbPFW790C

[1project2many]

Please remember to properly support the copper-nickel line and do not allow anything loose to rub against it. It will chafe through in short order.

Also, if you are making your own flare it is also extremely important to "seat" the flare in the mating fitting. This usually requires multiple passes tightening and loosening the fitting nut.


And finally, professionals aren't likely to make simple mistakes like leaving the nut off the tubing. These guys are just trying to make themselves feel better. Professionals do things like put the nut on backward or worse, put the wrong nut on altogether!

[Matt_50]

I think my donor, 84 c10, that I got my MC, brake pedal and rear axle had 3/16 and 1/4 lines. Would it be ok to use 3/16 all around and use adapters where needed?

[_Ogre]

3/16 for disc, 1/4 for drums

[1project2many]

The 1/4" line to the rear brakes allows a larger volume of fluid to flow to the wheel cylinders so the shoes apply in the least time. If you have rear disc you can switch the 3/16" tubing. Otherwise I believe it is best to use 1/4" tubing.


Also, these are really good and durable tools. They're expensive but if you plan to do more than one line it's good to have.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/600-ser...rument-benders

These are a little less expensive:
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/400-ser...rument-benders

[Matt_50]

Makes good sense, I'll stick to what it was. I guess I'll need a different tool than the one just listed...

[Matt_50]

I'm ordering brake lines today! I'm looking for fasteners or something that I can use to hold the lines. I'm seeing some that right like a metal tab wrapped in rubber. And my neighbor has an awesome Eastwood flaring tool, showed me his projects lines and said he would show me how to use.


Would you guys recommend a kit like This?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F201590838927

[geezer#99]

Those metal tabs wrapped in rubber are call ‘adel clamps’.
Work nicely for protecting your new lines.

Line clamps also work well.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/add...e-clamp-types/

[Matt_50]

Thanks! Knowing what they are called sure helps in looking them up.

[geezer#99]

You can buy them in bunches in the help section in your local parts emporium.

[Matt_50]

What proportioning valve would you guys recommend?

[1project2many]

Do you have the valve from the same truck as the rest of the components? That is likely to be a good start. The square body trucks had a slightly better weight distribution but they were still pickups and they still had to prevent rear lockup.

Even better might be a height adjustable valve from some of the larger pickups. That way you can dial it in to reduce rear braking when empty and if you ever load weight in the rear you'd get additional braking automatically.

[Matt_50]

Well, I do but it was left out in the rain with the rear line off. I know, my bad. Looked a little rusty in the threads on the rear adapter piece.

Could I clean it up?

[1project2many]

You can clean it up. The threads on the brake line nuts are the same as on fine thread nuts. So if you have a rethreader set you can chase the threads out.

However, I would blow it out with air first. If dirt, sand, or rusty water came out I would not use that part.

[Matt_50]

I cleaned it up and looks like just the rear port looked worse than it was. I guess the reverse cone caught a little water or condensation but in the very center through the hole it was all shiny.


Got my brake lines in!

So, do I route them, bend them, get them all in place and then flare?

[1project2many]

Hmmm...

When replacing a line theses days I try to build the replacement line completely before installing it. For lines built from scratch I would flare and attach one end then bend much of it in place. Expect to make multiple test fits while making your bends. It's ok to do this. It's how you get a good result.

[Matt_50]

Well, I'll start with my proportioning valve I guess. I like the pic miraclepieco shared, I'll mount similar if I can. Looks like he capped on of his front ports and I'm assuming has a tee for front brakes.

What's recommended, a tee to front brakes or just run one for each wheel?

[1project2many]

You'll be fine with a Tee.

[Matt_50]

I started this thread last April!

This project is moving along a lot slower than I keep thinking it will lol I guess we have all been there.

Well I ditched the ifs from the c10 and rebuilt the original axle and upgraded to disc front brakes. A few weeks ago I got a new proportioning valve, a week or so back I borrowed an awesome brake flaring tool from my neighbor and a couple days ago I got a bracket to hold the proportioning valve.


Maybe now I will finally run my brake lines. Maybe I can also install windshield without breaking the glass again too.....


I need E brake ideas. I have the c10's e brake and im not brake 100 % sure I want to use it. Another guy on here cut his down and made it less bulky, I can try it but I'd like to see what others have.

[dsraven]

when running your brake lines it is nice to have a slight uphill run to the master cylinder, that way bubbles find their way to the top overnight. also try not to make a "P" trap style anywhere that will trap air like the plumbing trap under the sink traps water. hard to bleed those. when running the lines I usually flare one end and then connect loosely so it will move if a little force is applied. that way you can do a few bends under the truck while the line is connected. you will likely be making a few trips up and down from the creeper unless you have a hoist.

[svr]

Nicop line, eastwood flaring tool, a good bender, and straightening tool, a nuts to match what your ging into, after that its just making the lines fit where they need to go. Only lines i had problem with were the ones i used the old style flaring tool on, eastwood tool is worth the money, found mine at a discount deal for $100.

[paintman]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

3/16 for disc, 1/4 for drums

Seeing as how I barely made it out of high school, can someone please explain this to me.

If the outlet ports on the MC is 3/16, and all the ports on the residual valves and propr valves, are 3/16, how the hell do you run 1/4 line? And what good would it really do if the intial point of exit at the MC is 3/16.

I'm not rying to disagree with Ogre, I am just trying to wrap my head around hydraulics.

[Matt_50]

I decided to clear off my bench and get all my new brake stuff out. I thought it would be good to practice so I grabbed my old lines and started cutting and flaring.

I used a drill bit and a file to clean up the lines before flaring. Good thing I'm practicing lol couple arnt pretty.

Question:

I'm comparing my flares to the donor's lines and im wonder if both kind work in the proportioning valve. Keep in mind that the old stuff I'm practicing on and comparing to are from 1984. My new valve looks just like my old one, do both flares work? Here's a pic of the old lines flared end and next to it is one I made. Old on right newly flared on left.

[Matt_50]

Or are these the same and I'm doing something wrong?