My 1963 K20 Stepside - Going to be lots of questions ....

[gmc684x4]

I have a lever lock in my 72 k10 it was installed for winching duty is your recovering another vehicle

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by CivilEGR

2. It looks like my alternator belt isn't in-plane with the flywheel. I think I need a new bracket, but I don't know what I'm looking for just yet.

'65 c20 with 292. It appears somebody replaced the alternator with another alternator without the correct spaced out pulley and fiddled with the bracket.

[CivilEGR]

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

I have a lever lock in my 72 k10 it was installed for winching duty is your recovering another vehicle

Makes sense seeing as my truck also has a PTO winch.

[CivilEGR]

Originally Posted by factorystock

'65 c20 with 292. It appears somebody replaced the alternator with another alternator without the correct spaced out pulley and fiddled with the bracket.

It looks like the bracket on mine on the top is flipped and that's causing the offset. I haven't looked underneath to see how it's bolted below.

[gmc684x4]

I have that brake lock setup in my 72 k10 it us to help recover another vehicle winching it out

[factorystock]

Another possibility, maybe the the lower alt. bracket has been changed? Here is the bottom bracket on a 292, one piece cast iron. The second photo is a bracket off a 230 or 250? steel.

[Ol Blue K20]

Maybe it has generator brackets instead of alternator brackets.......

[CivilEGR]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

A late 60's early 70's dual master should bolt right in. You will have to bend your own lines though. Some places may say they have what you need, but I guarantee they will be wrong.
Those drums should be 12x2", 11" is 2wd and will not work. Cylinders should be available, but be sure they are for 4x4. Hardware is different for a 4x4 even though some parts vendors think otherwise. Re use what you have, or go someplace where you can match before you buy.
While your at it, this is a good time to go to self adjusting brakes like later 60's trucks had.
Once well sorted, those 12" brakes work surprisingly well.
Good luck
Tom

Browsing through LMC is looks like the rear cylinders are easy to find, but it doesn't like front cylinders for a '63 3/4 ton 4x4. I also see they don't list a hardware kit for the 3/4 ton, only 1/2 tons. The brake shoes should be easy to find as well.

So if anyone has a heads up on hardware kits and front cylinders, please let me know.

[Short 3/4]

As I said, you will have to go to a "real" local parts or brake shop and match springs and hardware from whats in stock. I had no problem finding cylinders locally for front and back. I have found the vendors such as LMC are fine for stuff that would be on a C10, but don't wast your time with them on 3/4 ton 4x4 stuff, it's just too uncommon, and they will get it wrong every time (ask me how I know). Best to find a good local old time parts house, should be some in your city.

[CivilEGR]

Baby steps. Put new Falken MT LT255/85R16's on. With decent rubber all around, I finally took it out on the road. I noticed that at higher speeds (no idea what number because the speedometer isn't connected) that the front end is very loose. It starts pulling to the left, then when you steer right it "grabs" and starts pulling too hard to the right, then you steer left and it grabs and pulls you too far that way. Also, I was starting to get what I assume was a belt whine at the higher end, so I pulled off, turned around, and headed home.

[72cs20]

Those wheels and tires look good. What width are the wheels?

[CivilEGR]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

Those wheels and tires look good. What width are the wheels?

Those are just plain GM steelies. I had a spare set from my M1008 CUCV. I think they're 6.5"x16".

[Short 3/4]

Some 16" steel rims will very slightly distort those 12" drums. I was getting all kinds of weird braking and handling issues and also darn near ruined my drums, which are getting impossible to replace. Rims with rivets will do that, but I found some welded ones that work just fine. Or you can use wheel spacers, but I don't really like to use those on a truck.

[350TacoZilla]

Steering issues might be worn out box. If that's the case it's perfect time for a power steering upgrade to the newer style box.

[Short 3/4]

Good call on it possibly being the steering box.
I was able to get parts to rebuild mine at the local parts house. Paid a real mechanic to rebuild it though. Apparently if you don't adjust it right you can ruin the box, and the 4x4 version is different from 2wd, so not as common. Truck now handles great, so money well spent.
Good luck
Tom

[CivilEGR]

It would have been nice if the steering box were a standard model used across multiple vehicles. I'm not finding any rebuilt or rebuild kits for the 4wd model.

[bsarts]

Steering problem could be an alignment issue, I would check toe-in first.

[CivilEGR]

I'm working on finding a new master cylinder that's going to have dual reservoirs, but I can't find one with my bolt pattern. It looks like my truck has mounting holes at 45 degree angles, but all the new master cylinders are straight across. Any ideas on if I can find a dual reservoir with my bolt pattern?

Sample of my Master Cylinder

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by CivilEGR

I'm working on finding a new master cylinder that's going to have dual reservoirs, but I can't find one with my bolt pattern. It looks like my truck has mounting holes at 45 degree angles, but all the new master cylinders are straight across. Any ideas on if I can find a dual reservoir with my bolt pattern?

Sample of my Master Cylinder

The firewalls were made to accept either master cylinder bolt pattern. Looks like you have a bolt in the straight across holes from one of your earlier pictures. My 63 also has the provisions for the master with the angled mounting holes, but I'm running a master with the straight across holes

[AcampoDave]

When it comes to steering boxes....this is a good start. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/ edit: in my experience, it's better to call them. I suspect they are a bit on the (ahem) "old school side" and not super responsive to email and stuff.

[CivilEGR]

I'm having a slight crisis of conscience with the starting stage of this project. Part of me says to do the minimal required to get it on the road and driving. That would mean brakes/parking brake rebuild, some slight electrical, and a speedometer cable.

But when I start poking around, I think, if I'm going to be working on the brakes, I might as well tear the hubs down and do new bearings, grease, and seals. Then I start thinking if I'm working on the axles, then I should open the differentials and putting in new gear oil and seals. And if I start going down that road, maybe pull the transfer case and make sure it's full of oil and not leaking....

What would you do? Bare minimum and fix stuff as they become broken/a problem? Or be proactive and start rebuilding from the bottom up?

[AcampoDave]

Ha, I've always wished for a "can o' worms" emoji. I think a running project is preferable myself. You know, working in stages. Everyone has different circumstances but a runner has the advantage of remaining mobile in the event ones housing situation changes. It's also more easily resold if ones financial or family situation changes and it's just plain fun to still take it out to local "cruise in" events and talk with other enthusiasts about your plans.

I once tore an old International panel down and became overwhelmed for many reasons and wound up selling it as a basket case for a mere pittance. I'll never do that again. A long term stationary project is good for a guy with tons of space, a stable life and plenty of money, but not me.

[caseyjones]

Do the minimum and chip away at it. Making a small fix and then getting to drive it immediately tends to keep me motivated. No reason to do all of those tasks you mention at one time…you can break them up into smaller weekend jobs and get to them when you get to them.

[350TacoZilla]

If your not looking to do a full rebuild on the truck I would do the stuff you know it needs and check over stuff like fluid levels.

[Short 3/4]

I agree with those above. Do small stuff and keep it on the road, otherwise I guarantee you will get overwhelmed and run out of patience and money. A lot more fun if you can drive it after a smaller job and get immediate gratification!

That said, you should make it a priority to replace every fluid in that truck. That’s the best way to avoid some very expensive troubles down the road. The mechanicals of that truck are practically indestructible IF you keep the fluids clean and topped up.

Although finding some of the stock parts can be discouraging at times I would avoid the temptation of trying to re-engineer with newer parts. That can lead to some bigger headaches and a real cluster of a project.

Keep it simple, and fun, that’s what these old trucks are all about.