Next steps for the 63?

[Asshat]

I have been researching new distributors, and it seems these for the inline 6 do not have mechanical advance.

Here is the timing mark.

[Asshat]

Video checking vacuum advance.

https://youtube.com/shorts/pJIyFlZLa7k?feature=share

[Steeveedee]

Turning the rotor counterclockwise and letting it return to the starting point means you have mechanical advance and that it is working. The weights are under the breaker plate in the sixes.

I see that there is an elastomeric ring on the balancer. Now, can you pull #1 plug and rotate the engine backwards and forwards and locate the piston at TDC? If TDC on #1 cylinder and the timing marks align, your balancer is good. If the timing appears to be advanced, the outer ring has slipped. Setting the timing by the timing mark would then be useless, as it would result in retarded timing and cause your truck to be weak. It could also make it run hotter than it should. This is just another check to eliminate a suspect from the lineup.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Turning the rotor counterclockwise and letting it return to the starting point means you have mechanical advance and that it is working. The weights are under the breaker plate in the sixes.

I see that there is an elastomeric ring on the balancer. Now, can you pull #1 plug and rotate the engine backwards and forwards and locate the piston at TDC? If TDC on #1 cylinder and the timing marks align, your balancer is good. If the timing appears to be advanced, the outer ring has slipped. Setting the timing by the timing mark would then be useless, as it would result in retarded timing and cause your truck to be weak. It could also make it run hotter than it should. This is just another check to eliminate a suspect from the lineup.

I’m quite certain that the marks align. I can check again tonight after work.

The timing seems to be pretty close to where it should be. I’m thinking of buying a new points distributor and seeing if that makes a difference. Could be the lobes are rounded off a bit.

Is it worthwhile spending $200 for an HEI distributor? Are there other parts or special coil I would need to purchase?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I’m quite certain that the marks align. I can check again tonight after work.

The timing seems to be pretty close to where it should be. I’m thinking of buying a new points distributor and seeing if that makes a difference. Could be the lobes are rounded off a bit.

Is it worthwhile spending $200 for an HEI distributor? Are there other parts or special coil I would need to purchase?

I do get a lot hesitation when it’s cold, however, once it warms up, the hesitation is practically nonexistent.

I did try advancing the timing quite a bit and it really did not make much difference in how it ran.

[Steeveedee]

The marks align, sure. But is the piston KNOWN to be at TDC when the marks are aligned? Probably, based on what I'm seeing written. Putting in an HEI is pretty straightforward, you just need to run a wire from the "IGN UNFUSED" terminal in the fuse block (if a '63 has that), and remove the coil and it's power wire, and the yellow wire from the "R" terminal, as well. Though you could leave the wires in the harness and tape them back in case you wanted to go back to original. The rebuilt 6 cylinder distributor is about $40 at NAPA. I can spend all your money, if you want an HEI, go for it. Looking at your old distributor, I'd bet that it would help, though one with a better lobe condition might be all it takes.

[AcampoDave]

The HEI you linked earlier in the thread from Amazon seemed like a good deal at $84.99 and it seems to include new wires too. (Which you're gonna need if you switch to HEI.)

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

The HEI you linked earlier in the thread from Amazon seemed like a good deal at $84.99 and it seems to include new wires too. (Which you're gonna need if you switch to HEI.)

I’m just not sure if I will need another control module.

I’m picking this up tonight, can’t believe the price. Even lower than Rock Auto.
For $25, I can’t go wrong - even if it is remanufactured.

[Steeveedee]

Post a pic of the cam, for sure. The lobes should be way more pronounced than what yours looks like. That engine was used in some pretty heavy duty bigger trucks and should be able to grunt right up a reasonable incline, especially unloaded. You aren't hauling a cubic yard of bricks or anything, are you?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Post a pic of the cam, for sure. The lobes should be way more pronounced than what yours looks like. That engine was used in some pretty heavy duty bigger trucks and should be able to grunt right up a reasonable incline, especially unloaded. You aren't hauling a cubic yard of bricks or anything, are you?

No bricks, just a small pallet.

[Paul Y]

Would it not be worth buying a basket case truck with a good drive line and swapping this all over?

You would get all of the small components that always make a swap more expensive and difficult.

Or do you need/want to stay with the 8 bolt?

As for your current engine/ gearbox set up I would have thought that it would be able to navigate hills with ease if it was all in fine health.

Have you run a compression test?

Are you sure you have full throttle?

Is the timing set correctly?

Exhaust blocked?

Always a good idea to check the basics, I spent weeks chasing a misfire only to find out that it was one of the new plugs I had fitted but, of course, it couldn't be the plugs as I have just changed them....

P.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Would it not be worth buying a basket case truck with a good drive line and swapping this all over?

You would get all of the small components that always make a swap more expensive and difficult.

Or do you need/want to stay with the 8 bolt?

As for your current engine/ gearbox set up I would have thought that it would be able to navigate hills with ease if it was all in fine health.

Have you run a compression test?

Are you sure you have full throttle?

Is the timing set correctly?

Exhaust blocked?

Always a good idea to check the basics, I spent weeks chasing a misfire only to find out that it was one of the new plugs I had fitted but, of course, it couldn't be the plugs as I have just changed them....

P.

I don’t have the room for a donor truck, and at this point, I would rather stay with the 8 lug.

I did a few compression checks, everything looked good. Pressure came up quick.

Checked the carb and opening of throttle plate - all looks good.

I checked timing and tried several positions.

Also disassembled the exhaust and checked for blockage; I did have a blockage, however, it was removed quite a while ago.

[Steeveedee]

You checked carb opening by having someone step on the gas pedal, right? Many times the linkage doesn't actually open the throttle all the way, but opening the throttle by the hand under the hood will show that it does open all the way.

[Asshat]

Hoping this distributor will make a difference.
Loves are very pronounced.

[Steeveedee]

Here's hoping! But two things were changed- you now have breaker points instead of electronic "points". If it works OK, you'll never know which was the culprit for sure, but that old distributor had some sorry looking lobes.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Here's hoping! But two things were changed- you now have breaker points instead of electronic "points". If it works OK, you'll never know which was the culprit for sure, but that old distributor had some sorry looking lobes.

I agree, those are some sad lobes.
Might be nice to have the simple points setup; I heard some scary stories about the Pertronix failing.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I agree, those are some sad lobes.
Might be nice to have the simple points setup; I heard some scary stories about the Pertronix failing.

Turns out, those are not lobes - it’s the magnetic pickup that slips over the lobes. I guess I could have just swapped out the Pertronix with points. Regardless, I have a new distributor with points - old school!

It did drive a bit better, a little bit more crisp on the throttle response.

While driving, I remembered the linkage adjust, which truns out, may have been a bit off. I adjusted it and started it; it does open the throttle plate all the way now.
I will drive it tomorrow and follow up.

Pics of the old distributor.

[Steeveedee]

Hm. That Pertronix part faked me out pretty badly...I've only ever used points or an HEI.

Do you have a measurement of how far the throttle opened before you adjusted the linkage? At least qualitatively, like about 3/4, about 7/8 open, something like that?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Hm. That Pertronix part faked me out pretty badly...I've only ever used points or an HEI.

Do you have a measurement of how far the throttle opened before you adjusted the linkage? At least qualitatively, like about 3/4, about 7/8 open, something like that?

Yeah, I think about 3/4. If I see a big difference tomorrow, that will explain most of my issues.

[Asshat]

New issues - big time.

New distributor installed, started up ran fine in the garage last night. Roll it out this morning after work, about 5pm. Wanted to drive it up a small incline and check the new throttle adjustments. Ran good, went about 5 miles, and we wanted to stop at Trader Joe’s. We get there, come back out and start driving again. No issues.
We go a few blocks and it starts to sputter. I’m thinking it’s running out of gas; it happened to me the other day. The other day, before I changed the distributor, when it ran out of gas, I put gas in it from a gas can I carry and I was on my way.
Tonight I put gas in it and it starts up, but running really rough. Get it going, drive about 1/4 mile and I am stick at an intersection. It doesn’t want to start.
After about 10 minutes I get it started and make it across the main intersection into my neighborhood where it dies. The whole time I am dribivkmv it in 2nd gear, running super rough just sputtering up a storm. Like it’s running on 2-3 cylinders.
Got some neighbors to help me push it back into my garage.

After a while I have to check it.
Compression check ok - all cylinders.
Coil giving a good spark.
Pulled distributor cap and points are opening an closing, sparks look good.
Cracked the fuel line and it spews fuel.

What the hell?

It ran like the timing was totally off; but I derive it all that time and it ran good

Now it’s not starting.

Stumped.

[Paul Y]

Do these have the filter in the fuel inlet to the carb?

If so might be worth checking.

Get a spray bottle, throw some fuel in it and spray it down the carb whilst cranking it over. If it fires up you know you have a fuel issue. If not, probably spark.

Also, long shot but worth a consideration. Check the fuel tank hasn't got a bit of paper or bottle label in it which could be blocking the fuel pick up intermittently and causing a drop in fuel pressure and therefore performance and starting etc.

Had exactly this problem in a Ford Capri I purchased for cheap because the previous owner got fed up with it breaking down.

Always seemed to happen when the tank got below 1/3. Complete fluke but found the label to a can of STP in the tank on the 3rd time of taking it out.

Removed label and car fixed.

Keep diagnosing it and you will get there PLUS! you will know your truck inside out and be able to fix any fault at the side of the road in the future!

P.

[Steeveedee]

Get a clean pan and drain the engine oil. If the oil is clean, you can put it back in. If you see fibrous material, your cam gear is probably shredded. Did you pull the timing cover when you had the engine out, before? The cam gear going bad is unlikely, but your comment about the way it sounds makes me think of it as a possibility.

[Asshat]

Checked the following:
Voltage at the coil
Coil spark
All plugs sparking
Rotor spinning
Compression good
Fuel pumping
Fuel filter clear

Not sure what the hell is wrong.
Totally stumped.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Get a clean pan and drain the engine oil. If the oil is clean, you can put it back in. If you see fibrous material, your cam gear is probably shredded. Did you pull the timing cover when you had the engine out, before? The cam gear going bad is unlikely, but your comment about the way it sounds makes me think of it as a possibility.

Yes, checked cam gear before, looked good.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Do these have the filter in the fuel inlet to the carb?

If so might be worth checking.

Get a spray bottle, throw some fuel in it and spray it down the carb whilst cranking it over. If it fires up you know you have a fuel issue. If not, probably spark.

Also, long shot but worth a consideration. Check the fuel tank hasn't got a bit of paper or bottle label in it which could be blocking the fuel pick up intermittently and causing a drop in fuel pressure and therefore performance and starting etc.

Had exactly this problem in a Ford Capri I purchased for cheap because the previous owner got fed up with it breaking down.

Always seemed to happen when the tank got below 1/3. Complete fluke but found the label to a can of STP in the tank on the 3rd time of taking it out.

Removed label and car fixed.

Keep diagnosing it and you will get there PLUS! you will know your truck inside out and be able to fix any fault at the side of the road in the future!

P.

Tried the spray bottle too. Same thing, no start; fires on a couple cylinders.