new steering box

[kglowacky]

I found some cpp adapters i think will work. Have a question. does anyone know if the 80 and up boxes are metric tread? I am going to call redhead in the morning to see if they can tell me. Looks like in their add they are if so I solved my problem.

[Nick_R_23]

Yes, I want to say the Metric changeover was 1979 or 1980. I know my 1978 is pre-metric, and I used the CPP adapters to use metric lines on it.

[v30crewcab]

you need a 1980 up box, or change the fitting in the back of your pump and run a 78 hose.
you could also convert to an fittings on the box and pump and do it that way.

[kglowacky]

ordered fittings on the box to convert o ring to flare from CPP

[LT7A]

I hope the fittings work out and I look forward to your review on the new box. I spent plenty on an AGR and even the second one didn't work as advertised, but I moved on to other things at that point. Please post pictures of redhead

[kglowacky]

This is my third box. First two local rebuilder, used him for over 30 years no problems. Family run shop father died and I think he lost the edge. We will see.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by Mathew21

Very good quality https://redheadsteeringgears.com/

Do you still have the rag joint on your steering shaft? If so have you given any thought to switching to an XJ Jeep steering shaft? It really tightened up my steering. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9C4RdvjPNQ

Thank you for sharing the video.

[kglowacky]

just wanted to update my steering box project. Been out of town for 4 weeks so today I just installed the new adapters from CPP part # 500IOA. I used Teflon tape on the threads going into the box. Not sure needed but I am old school. As everyone knows always curve balls when working on anything that has wheels. The 1 inch tall adapters raised my one hose to where it interfered with my custom made air cleaner for my LS1 so with it being 106 degrees in Houston today I decided to stop. Anyways should be able to finish next time I work on it. Still need to decide what steering shaft I am going to install. Have a jeep and a original with a new rag joint to decide from. The adapters worked fine . Will update when complete with road test results included.

[Axle]

Originally Posted by kglowacky

not sure what I bought on ebay to replace the rag joint but it was a steering shaft off a jeep. The splines on the box and the splines on the shaft seemed to be a alitttle loose so I went back to a new rag joint.
The more I look and turn turn the wheel looking for sloop the more i believe it is in the box.

I put in a new Omix-Ada jeep shaft, I found the same thing after running it for a year. Pinch bolt is tight, but the yoke seems to rock from the split yoke getting spread apart at the u-joint side. When I first installed it it was solid, no movement at all at the spline joint. Makes me wonder if its "normal" wear for a jeep and why jeep shafts are readily available in the aftermarket.
Contemplating adding a clamp of some sort to assist with holding the split yoke together at the u-joint side to keep the turning stress from opening up the split.

[kglowacky]

OK I installed my new redhead steering box and took it for a test drive today. Here are the results
1. it bolted up no problem other then I need the adapters for the metric to standard hose
2 the steering box itself gave me tighter /more friction turning pressure. My old box was really really easy to turn where this new redhead have some resistance BUT I like it as it feels like you have more control over the truck.
3. now the issue of slop in the steering wheel. It is still there. But I think I found the issue.
during my restore mod build I moved the steering wheel column in around 3 inches toward the motor. This made me shorten the steering shaft between the column and box. I drilled out the plastic inserts that keeps it still unless there is a crash then it collapses. After drilling them out I slide the shaft apart and cut 3 inches off both the male end and female end. Well it looks like after I put it back together there is slop at this connection. I also did the same to my jeep purchased shaft. and I got the same slop. So it appears you cant modify these shafts as there is no way to get them to tighten up again or the female side of the shaft is tapered and I cut the tapered out.. So now I am trying to figure out what my solution is the my problem.
Here's what I came up with.
1. Drill two new holes in the modified shaft and install bolts. The problem is it wont collapse and not sure if it will tighten it up enough to get rid of the slop
2. Weld the two shafts together at the connection.
3 Try to see if someone in the aftermarket sells a collapsible shaft the length and fit I need
4. drive as is. really not a solution.
5 buy another factory shaft and cut 3 inches out of the shaft at the coupling and weld back together without messing with the connection

so as far as is the red head box a improvement the answer is yes and I would buy another one and the price is a little higher but after three attempts on rebuilds they seem to be the best result for me. I believe the tightness is a result of them installing oversize bearings and it is a new oem tight fit I am feeling as the local part houses are installing oem size bearings and the box is worn to a point where the are too small due to wear in the box.
will post what I decide to do to fix my CHALLANGE

[Nick_R_23]

Glad to hear you’ve pinpointed the issue, but why did you move the steering column in the first place?

[kglowacky]

the steering column was to close to the seat. LOL either loose weight or move the column. moving the column was easier to do. it just seemed to be to close to the seat for me.

[Just call me Sean]

So I went and measured some shafts to try and help. Because they're on my trucks and have that plastic cover on them I measured from the low pressure line on the box to the through bolt at the column. I got 23" for the '86 K5 but it's missing the column so I don't know if the shaft is at the actual installed length. I got 20 3/4" on my '93 2500 and it has room to collapse more than the 3/4. I got 19" on my '92 S10. If the ends are the same where they connect then you can probably make one work. There isn't anything to drill to collapse them, I collapse them to remove them.

[cadillac_al]

I wonder if a Camaro steering column would fit better.

[kglowacky]

just mea sured mine from the low pressure line to the bolt in the column. 20 inches. I have a 80s column with the double d connection and one side round other side flat. The box side is spline. did not count the spines but I think all the c-10 boxes have the same.

[Just call me Sean]

Here's a pic of the '93 shaft and the box end.

[kglowacky]

Thanks
going to a c10 junkyard in the morning to try to get one that is short enough. I think the 93 2500 may be short enough.

[Mathew21]

Jeep XJ Steering shaft is a nice upgrade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9C4RdvjPNQ

[kglowacky]

decided to waste a day going around the junkyards in Houston today and as expected no one had the steering shaft I am looking for. Does anyone have a shaft off a 93 2500 as shown in the pic Sean shows above. I have contacted three ebay sellers on the ones they show for sale and all three responded "part is in warehouse just buy it and return it if it doesn't fit" Well the length I need is 18.5 inches top hole to bottom bolt or 20 inches top hole to low pressure PS hose fitting. I am assuming it would have to collapse another 2 inches to clear the steering column to install.

[Just call me Sean]

1500 is the same, 88-98 pickup. Tahoe and Suburban also in the same body style.

[kglowacky]

sean is this one like yours. This one seems to have a plastic tube on it. cant seem to get the picture to upload. Ebay #334047515838

[Just call me Sean]

The plastic tube is just a dust cover. My S10 looks similar.

[Honest Bob]

**oops didnt read the 2nd page where you had this all figured out already. **


This might be the solution. I believe it lets you use your old standard thread lines with a metric steering box.

https://leepowersteering.com/product...sae-conversion

I ran into this same issue with the hydroboost unit on my 75 C35. No one sells a hydroboost unit with standard fittings, only the newer oring metric fittings.

[kglowacky]

bought a shaft off ebay .(93 suburban) Will update when I receive. Thanks everyone.

[Axle]

Originally Posted by kglowacky

1. Drill two new holes in the modified shaft and install bolts. The problem is it wont collapse and not sure if it will tighten it up enough to get rid of the slop

2. Weld the two shafts together at the connection.

Do not get rid of the movement. If you do, something is going to get damaged as the cab moves in relation to the frame. ie: soft cab bushings, they age and sag movement has to come from somewhere, the normal twisitng of the frame when you turn, changes in surface height at one corner etc).
On the original shaft there is enough free play fore/aft to take care of this without noticing (the rag joint a bit, and that hybrid u-joint up by the steering column).

When I first put in the jeep shaft I only heated it up enough to break the slip
joint free and tap it to length. What I found in driving it is there was enough cab movement that I had popping/snap heard and felt in the steering wheel, turns out the source of that popping was the slip shaft having to break the friction of the remaining plastic bushing since there was no where else for movement to occur. Ended up knocking the remainder of the plastic bushing out and greasing it up good. No more popping, just back to more slop in the wheel.