Engine Removal Prep Questions/Advice

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I suppose it might depend on the machine shop’s requirement.
No gentle easy removal on them. They usually get mangled.
You need to drill out the hot rivet on the bracket and apply some heat to the back side to get them out.
Are you putting the stock intake back on?

Mine had a bolt on the bracket. Looks like his might too, but it's hard to tell.

[Alloyvert]

Yep, mine has the bolt into the block. After some thought, I decided to try and remove it. First pass failed as there is no way get a solid grip to pry it out. Went to plan B after realizing you can get bent tool on the inside lip and using a small pry bar, it only took a couple taps to pop it out. The only damage is a couple small indents on the inner lip, but otherwise unscathed and very reusable.

Also popped out the freeze plugs, so just about ready to find a shop.

[AcampoDave]

Kudos for keeping the ol' sbc. Please do keep your thread going as things progress. I too have have kept my 283's and am interested in following your progress.

[Alloyvert]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Kudos for keeping the ol' sbc. Please do keep your thread going as things progress. I too have have kept my 283's and am interested in following your progress.

Will do. I am starting to think ahead and making a list of all the little things that need to be addressed before the motor goes back in. Instead of cluttering up some of your threads, I have a couple questions about your 283's.

In your BT tuning thread, you mentioned using an Edlebrock 500 cfm carb. Which specific model? The 1403??

Also are you running the stock intake?

I finally located the correct ramhorns with the forward alternator mounting location and getting a Jet-Hot quote this week. Trying to get a head start on some of these longer lead time items.

Thanks!

[AcampoDave]

I am using an Edelbrock 1403 atop an Performer EPS manifold. The 1403 comes out of the box jetted quite rich. According to Edelbrock, It's for "perfomace applications on 305 and smaller engines or dual quad applications." You may have noticed in this thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=838553 that I have it leaned out 8 percent on the primaries (a jet change) and currently 4 percent on the secondaries. Like the thread says, I need to blast it full bore up a steep hill and depending on my AFR at that point I may try another 4 percent leaner yet on the secondaries.

Edit:I do have a stock 283 as well and it still runs its original type Rochester 2 jet on the original intake and it is a joy to drive too. Is it "fast? Not in a brute power sense of course, but it is peppy and it will hustle with its 3 on the tree tranny and 3.08 rear gears. It still has the light duty 3 piece drive shaft and drum brakes so those limitations make it plenty powerful enough.

BTW if you look in that thread, you can see my old pitted ramhorns wearing a nice coat of Jet-Hot in the "Silver Polish" finish.

[AcampoDave]

Here's the other one it was in better shape so it came out noticeably smoother. I did it more for function than style anyhow. I don't really like the pseudo chome look of Silver Polish, but it blocks the most heat so I got it.

Edit: I did this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=838223 to them before I sent them to Jet-Hot.

[Alloyvert]

Good info. and very helpful. The quote from Jet-Hot today recommended the Satin Silver as well. So once I find a box, they will be going in.

Going back and forth on the top end as I looked at that same Edelbrock setup initially. But I need to slow down and take baby steps, coupled with liking the basic performance after taking a couple drives before tearing it down.

My 283 is a little different as I was surprised to find a 4 barrel on it. Once I pulled the block and intake numbers, confirmed it came from a ‘64 Chevelle. The carb was junk, so to get it running decent I bought a rebuilt 4GC from Rock Auto that worked great out of the box. Worse case I can go with these stock parts and see how it goes when back on the road. Plenty of other higher priority spending and labor this winter like front suspension, ignition, dash wiring, and going through the brakes.

[Alloyvert]

Just saw your port clean up and now is the time to do it. And with the fairly quick 15 day processing time, not a huge deal if I delay sending them for a couple weeks.

[AcampoDave]

I saved a bit of cash shipping mine in a flat rate box from the post office. They were pretty snug in there and I had to remove the studs. The post office box was like 17 dollars vs their return shipping through UPS at 60 or something crazy.

Satin silver and Silver Polish are not the same so make sure you are getting what you want.

[Alloyvert]

You are right as I was a bit confused with how the color chart was setup. Assume your finish is the classic polish as that coating touts the biggest heat reduction, correct? They were steering me to the Satin Silver since it looks cleaner.

Perfect timing as they just started a BF 20% off deal thru 12/7. So I need to get these boxed up and shipped. I also checked on the flat rate boxes, but not sure how you fit these in a medium FR box given the size??

[AcampoDave]

Mine are classic polish and it does offer the best heat reduction which is important where I live. No doubt about it that satin looks better on a pitted manifold, but I don't care about looks too much under the hood of my '66. It's built for driving and driving seems to get it pretty dirty anyhow. The box was snug alright but I had room for some wadded paper cushioning to keep them from shifting around in there. Maybe it was the 13⅝ inches x 11⅞ inches x 3⅜ inches (side-loading) . The outlet studs were removed though. They wouldn't fit with those still in.

[Alloyvert]

Made some progress this week as the manifolds are at Jet-Hot for coating and I dropped off the motor today at the machine shop. Should know in a week or so the extent of the rebuild and then about month to get it completed.

The instrument cluster needs a restore, so I pulled it this week and did a quick tear down. Found one damaged bulb socket along with a chunk of plastic gear that rolled out. Guess the rattling from the removal uncovered a weakness with the speedo gears as it worked fine last time I drove. So now I need to find a replacement. The fun of working on a 50 plus year old vehicle.

[Alloyvert]

Some progress aside from the motor as the manifolds are back from Jet-Hot a week early and they came out great. Also found a reasonably priced cluster for parts and although it was very dirty, everything from the bezel to the speedo (which looks like new inside) was in much better shape than mine. You can really tell my truck sat in the sun for those 20 plus years while parked as the needles were a faded orange and the replacements are a nice/bright red. I hope to finish the cluster restoration this weekend and maybe start cleaning up the deluxe steering wheel.

The machine shop is taking their time as I am still waiting for the autopsy and cost estimate.

[MT65]

Your machine shop maybe having issues finding parts, my local machine shop is having huge supply issues, his typical parts bill is minimum $1500 per day…and the parts for the 283…you can build a 350 for much less…can’t blame you for the originality though….
Build a 350, use your original tinware…99% will not know the difference….

[AcampoDave]

Eastwood actually sells guage needle paint. I got some of the same from a hobby shop. Steady handed work...Not a job you do after drinking coffee that's for sure. Your manifolds look cooool.

[Alloyvert]

I found some needle paint after reading through the cluster restoration thread, so I was ready to tackle this project. Spent this afternoon cleaning up the replacement harness including new wrap, installing the face decals and getting the guts reassembled. I had the original face plate and bezel already completed, but the ones on the parts cluster were in much better shape. So I need to get those stripped and painted tomorrow, then check this project off the list.

[Alloyvert]

I stopped by the machine shop today to make a deposit and things are slowly moving forward. The heads are rebuilt and they are now awaiting parts including pistons, lifters, cam and timing set. The cylinders had some scoring and pitting, so they need to be bored out. We agreed to not use the draft can setup for ventilation, so I need to start shopping for new valve covers along with a replacement oil pan.

We mutually agreed the worst case completion is early March, but should be sooner. The fun of working with a small 2 man mom/pop shop. But this is exactly why I did this over the winter.

Speaking of oil pan, any recommendation for a decent quality dip stick tube set as mine was toast? I ordered a chrome one from Classic and was not impressed.

The cluster was wrapped up and came out great. Next up is the deluxe steering wheel and depending on how it turns out, I may just go the aftermarket route.

[AcampoDave]

I don't have an oil pan recommendation but I have learned the importance of having a set of valvecovers with a real baffle for the pcv. I used to wonder where the heck my oil was going then I saw this: http://mewagner.com/?p=1221 . That write-up was the reason I switched my fancy aluminum covers which had homemade baffles (if you call them that) similar to design #2 for the metal ones I got from Speedway Motors. (See post 31 in this thread). Those have a real baffle similar to OE valvecovers.

[Alloyvert]

Thanks for the valve cover input as those are also on my shopping list. Yours appear to be stamped steel, correct?

I am just going to order a Jegs oil pan.

[geezer#99]

You can use any non baffle valve cover if you use one of these.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...yABEgKxAfD_BwE

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by Alloyvert

Thanks for the valve cover input as those are also on my shopping list. Yours appear to be stamped steel, correct?

I am just going to order a Jegs oil pan.

Yeah, stamped steel. These...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...BC,323550.html I got them thru Amazon to save on shipping.

[Alloyvert]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Yeah, stamped steel. These...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...BC,323550.html I got them thru Amazon to save on shipping.

How are they holding up? Any leak issues? I don't want or need any bling, so these look to be a nice option... especially for the price.

Looks like you are running an adjustable PCV and breather, correct? Any details? Thanks again for all the input!

[Alloyvert]

Finally an update as I received the long awaited call yesterday that my engine is complete! The fun of working with a small shop. But just in time to get it on the road for the nice weather season.

Next up is renting the hoist yet again and get it mounted on the stand so I can start paint prep. My goal is to have it on the road before May 1.

[scottofksu]

Exciting times! Can't wait to see her painted and in the engine bay!

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by Alloyvert

How are they holding up? Any leak issues? I don't want or need any bling, so these look to be a nice option... especially for the price.

Looks like you are running an adjustable PCV and breather, correct? Any details? Thanks again for all the input!

Wow, I just saw this . Sorry to ghost you. They are holding up just fine and the PCV is an ME Wagner and it is adjustable and kinda cool looking too. I went in on a group buy with a few other guys on this site. If you site search it out you will find a couple of threads about them but their website is pretty good too. Not cheap but they are kind of a unique looking gizmo that not too many people have. The breather though is just a run of the mill serviceable type with a foam filter inside.
Edit: thanks for bringing your thread back too. I enjoy it.