55.2-59 Has anybody here used a Chassis Engineering bolt-in crossmember on a Task Force?

[dsraven]

Kinda early in the build but do you plan to redrill the rear axles for the same pattern as the front?

[autowrench]

That's not something I have ever done. The axle is 64" face to face, so that adds some extra width. It's another problem to solve along the way. I asked Fatman about converting the front to 5x5" and they said I would need to replace the rotors, have the spindles machined for different bearings, Yada, Yada, Yada. I would just buy adapters instead. I thought about adapters for the rear, but that would add extra width. Might be better to fid a Camaro, Nova , or Chevelle rear end.

[leegreen]

A free level app on my cell phone is just as accurate as my digital torpedo level.

[autowrench]

That's good to know!

[dsraven]

do you have the complete MII kit? a couple of pics of what you have would allow the rest of us to advise if you are missing something.

[dsraven]

I have heard about thaT app and seen a video where a guy is using it but then got the app for whatever reason. looks cool though. I have the digital level which is cheaper than a new phone if I clutz out and drop it plus the level is magnetic which is handy when you work alone.
there is an axle width chart here if you scroll down some.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...chart.1201784/

you could look for a mustang rear axle, the 8.8 unit, as they are pretty strong as well and there are lots of upgrade kits if you are thinking of dumping a bunch of power under the hood.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ford-8-8-rear-end/
the explorer has the 8.8 as well and most have decent gears with the larger axles, top hat style park brake and rear discs but it has an offset center while the mustang is centered I think. there are a few guys who shorten the long axle to be the same length as the short axle and then simply use 2 short side axles so the pumpkin is centered. the axles and rotors or drums are easy to redrill if you just drill the flange between the ford studs and install the correct size of studs to match the front wheels. I have done it before. I cut the mounting flange off a scrap explorer rotor and drilled 1/8" holes where I needed the new studs to be (had a buddy mark the spots with it chucked up in a lathe but you could do the same with a good pattern marked with both the ford and the chevy circles and with the ford circles cut out to fit the studs). I bolted it up to the axle using the ford wheel bolts still in place. then marked the axle flange by running a 1/8" drill bit through the holes just enough to make a mark on the axle flange. removed the pattern piece, center punched where the marks were and drilled the flange with a 1/8" bit for a good pilot hole to use later. then measured how long the new studs needed to be to go through the rotor and the wheel with room for the nut on the front side. then I sourced some wheel studs the correct size for length with the same lug nuts as the front rotors had. drilled the axle flange to accept the new studs with a press fit and removed the old ford studs. then I used the ford studs to bolt the pattern to the ford rotor and did the same trick there. these holes can be a little sloppy because they don't have to fit tightly around the stud. with that done the whole thing can be assembled. I did this without taking the axles out of the differential housing, just be careful to drill straight and use a small bit for a pilot hole to ensure it is where it needs to be. best to do this with a drill press and the axles removed but it worked for me this way.

[autowrench]

I searched and found this: https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/wheel-...ill-guide-jig/. It leads to Hells Gate Hot Rods, who sell the drill guide to re drill axles, drums and rotors. It costs $149 now, but I think I could trust my results that way. I hope this helps someone!

[dsraven]

Seen those before. Seems easy to use.

[leegreen]

haven't done it but I think a set of these bolt pattern templates and some transfer punches would get the job done as well https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B076DJXPM7/

[autowrench]

Yep. Part of the issue for me is that my hands aren't always steady any more. Just something that is part of getting old!

[dsraven]

the road kill customs unit might be your best bet then.

[autowrench]

That could be, for sure. Everything is on hold now anyway. My wife hit a bear with our Honda Fit and boogered up the headlight and bumper cover. I had to move the pickup out to make room to get it on the lift and assess the damage. So it's on the back burner for now. Depending on weather, it may not make it's way back to the shop before weather sets in. I think I need to put the bucks together and do the bolt-in crossmember. I was hoping someone had experience with it, but I am willing to take a chance on it since I have heard no negative input. It just may take a while. That is the story of this project so far. I am not complaining. I did not find it, it found me.

[57tailgater]

FWIW I have not used an IFS but for a while I searched for a bolt in IFS for my '57 and couldn't find one. I thought the Chassis Engineering one was only for AD's (47-55.1) and they didn't have one for TF's (55.2-59). A long time ago there was a thread on here where a member bolted on a square body IFS into a TF. The frame is wider then a TF so he had to put some spacers in but the rest looked like a bolt in. That crossmember is pretty substantial and you didn't have to do any welding and even used the outside of the frame rail power steering. I thought it was pretty neat at the time. There is the one from Scott's Hot Rods https://scottshotrods.com/1955-1959-...s-bolt-on-ifs/ too. In keeping things simple and less expensive tho I wound up sticking with the straight axle.

[dsraven]

there was a fella on here awhile back who narrowed a square body cross member for under his truck. he also fabbed up his own control arms for the super low1 ton. it might be something that could be done but the steering center link would also have to be narrowed to match. could get involved with getting that done legally and safely. just a thought.if the wheelbase is the same you would also need to look at the ackerman angle to see if the steering geometry would be changed enough to think about.

[autowrench]

Just so you know, the part number is IF-5559CPT for the Chassis Engineering bolt-in crossmember. No pictures of it, but if you download the installation instructions there are pictures there. Summit sells a version of it with small block motor mounts already installed. LS type arealso available too.
Tom

[dsraven]

that sounds good umless the mounts aren't where you want them. could always cut them off and weld them on where you want them though. likely they are within reason of where they should be to fit a steering column, exhaust etc. looks like a decent part, without going through specs etc for steel thickness and on and on.

[autowrench]

Yes, I was thinking the same thing about the mounts. Plus, I won't know for a while which engine and trans are going in. I have the 455 and TH400 that came with the truck. Condition is unknown, except I assume it was running when the motor mounts let go.