The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build

[Sodell]

Ahhhh, d*^n.....I have had plenty of smashed fingers and toes, but to get one infected like that after you already drilled it once...glad the swelling is down...

[Tx Firefighter]

I'm not real proud of my work or my pictures today.

It was warm and I had time so I figured to get some progress made. The plan for today was to swap steering columns, repair any issues behind the dash, and install dash.

I ran into a problem that really slowed me down.

First, its common rhetoric here on this board to say steering columns are interchangeable between 1984 and 1987. This is absolutely wrong. The wiring harness that plugs into the ignition switch is much different. So, I couldn't plug my wiring harness into place. So I tried to swap ignition switches between the tilt and non tilt. They do not interchange either. Apparently my column is an 85 or so vintage. Fortunately, I have a buddy at O Reilly who pulled all of the switches off the shelf for 84-91, tilt and non tilt. There simply is no switch that will fit an 85 era column but accept a 88 model wiring plug. Fortunately I had an old 85 model junk harness in my shop attic that I could rob the plugs off of and splice into the 88 model harness.

Sorry for the poor pictures. In the first, you can see the difference between the connector configurations if you care to squint and study the picture.



In this picture, you can see why the later model switch won't bolt to the earlier column. The receptacle for the push pull rod is in quite a different spot. They're off by about half an inch.



In frustration, after finishing the wiring debacle, I just powered on and reinstalled the scummy old dash pad and bezel. I did install a radio block off plate out of my stash. I need to do some suspension, wheel and tire, and underbody wiring work on this thing. Its time to make some progress even if it isn't pretty I need this truck to be a truck and not a yard ornament so much.

[Tx Firefighter]

I spent the afternoon working on the underbed and tail light wiring. I did more figuring out than I did working. First and foremost, my tailights are junk.





Coincidentally, I saw this on the top of the board today.



Plus they coincidentally sent me a "Black Friday Free Shipping" email offer this morning.



So I combined the discount code and the free shipping and ordered me some new lights. And, not just new lights, but full on pimp Hillbilly Deluxe lights. Or, you could say they're the most expensive, ugly, glorified boat trailer lights and you'd be correct too.





Now to wait their arrival.

[Sodell]

Those taillights should look pretty sharp. Was wondering about the LED's, were you able to dim them?

[Tx Firefighter]

I'm about to walk out to the barn and do my nightly feeding chores. It should be dark enough to see some results of my work. Will report back soon, success or epic failure. It was so bright outside today that I couldn't tell what was working and what wasn't.

[Tx Firefighter]

I'm kind of lukewarm to the final results. They seem to work fine, no dimming though. They're either on or off. For some reason the pictures show a white haze on the outboard sides of the two main gauges. It's not obvious in person for some reason.

Final score.....meh.

Next time I'll just buy a new box of normal incandescent bulbs.

[rusty76]

Man hope the finger gets better. I work with my hands and can't stand to not be able to use them. I tried to cut my index finger off with a 4 inch hole saw a few months ago. Stitches and all. It sucked. Hope you get better. Now to make your Thanksgiving weekend better.

I have avoided reading this build for some dumb reason. Mainly I think because I thought it was going to be one of those dually builds that lack utility. No disrespect to anybody it just isn't my thing. So today I thought I'd sit down and take a look. Man I've got to say I have much respect for you. You do some really great work and your truck makes sense. I decided to put it in my or our low buck build threads in the General Discussion area http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=581873 . It's right on with what I feel is a great way to look at and build a truck.

So when will we see a build thread on the other truck? It looks way too kool. I can't wait. Happy late Thanksgiving.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Man hope the finger gets better. I work with my hands and can't stand to not be able to use them. I tried to cut my index finger off with a 4 inch hole saw a few months ago. Stitches and all. It sucked. Hope you get better. Now to make your Thanksgiving weekend better.

I have avoided reading this build for some dumb reason. Mainly I think because I thought it was going to be one of those dually builds that lack utility. No disrespect to anybody it just isn't my thing. So today I thought I'd sit down and take a look. Man I've got to say I have much respect for you. You do some really great work and your truck makes sense. I decided to put it in my or our low buck build threads in the General Discussion area http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=581873 . It's right on with what I feel is a great way to look at and build a truck.

So when will we see a build thread on the other truck? It looks way too kool. I can't wait. Happy late Thanksgiving.

Wow. Thank you for the compliment. If you ever see me building a truck, its gonna be a truck that can haul stuff. If it can't do that, I'd just build a car.

Last picture of the gauges. I took my iPad outside since it's camera is better than a phone camera. It was also full dark by now too.



I'm getting about wore out with my lack of progress, between nursing my finger and cold weather. I'm getting ready to dig into something different to make some motivational progress. Maybe do the front suspension and lower it and put the wheels and tires on.

[68Timber]

Kevin - why "meh"? Are they expensive, or because they don't dim, or? I haven't used them before but have considered them, just curious.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

Kevin - why "meh"? Are they expensive, or because they don't dim, or? I haven't used them before but have considered them, just curious.

Expensive, yes. About 5 times per each what a stock incandescent bulb goes for.

The dimming thing doesn't bother me even a little bit. I've been driving 25 years and I don't think I've ever dimmed any dash lights. I always run them full bright. Even my little Honda daily driver which has fantastic dash lights, I leave turned all the way up.

Maybe the meh is just I'm kind of embarrassed that I worked several days fussing over painting and cleaning and replacing bulbs and it's not much different than if I'd just have reached my arm up under the dash and swapped whatever stock bulbs were burnt out.

I did need a "ground ball" project to mess with while I was laid up with the finger though. Something I could sit at my workbench and do very carefully with 9 fingers. I can say, it fit the bill in that category.

[Zane M]

I had the same reaction when I did the LED conversion for my gauge lights. I was expecting a lot more. BUT, I'm not unhappy, and I figure I will never have to change those bulbs again.

[Tx Firefighter]

My finger is mended enough that I felt like taking advantage of a freak 70 degree December day.

First off, remove these things.....



I'm installing a pair of drop shackles. These are half ton truck shackles. My cab and chassis truck is weird in that it uses 2.5 inch wide leaf springs rather than 3 inch like a dually pickup uses. Fortunately, when I lowered my buddies truck with flip kit and c notch, he gave me the drop shackles that were on his truck. Cool deal, good price, and made right here locally.



They bolted right on. I couldn't use the higher holes (more drop) because the leaf springs would hit the bed runner channel.



It's very close as is right now. Less than a finger width clearance as the shackles cycles through its range of motion.

Then, wiring work. This is slow progress because I'm methodical and particular.

I mounted this big junction box in the rear center of the truck. The feeds from the truck wiring harness come in from the top. The feeds out to the left and right sides go out the respective side of the box. The odd red wire out the top is a feed to the license plate lamp and three center marker lamps on the back of the bed.





The reason I'm so slow is that every wire is laid out to determine proper length and routing, then removed from the truck and the end terminals installed. I like to crimp, solder, then heat shrink. Every one of them....





Then I installed another pair of junction blocks, one on each side of the truck. This gives me a place to tie in the tailights, bed side marker lights, and headache rack lights all in a sanitary manner.



I'm still waiting on my tailights to arrive, but they will be an easy bolt on and run wires to the junction blocks on each side.

I also need to get some little clamps to bolt all of the wiring looms firmly into place so they don't sag or wiggle around. It will all look more sanitary when I get it finished.

[OutlawDrifter]

i like the attention to detail on the wiring side. i spent a lot of years cutting corners with wiring and ended up paying for it two fold! now i'm also very particular and my soldering iron comes out even when not needed.

[Tx Firefighter]

Thank you. I like wiring work to stand the test of time. There's nothing worse than intermittent lights that you have to troubleshoot at the worst possible time.

I'm studying right now to figure out how I want to configure my trailer light plugs. My 18 foot trailer uses an RV plug which is common on modern trailers and my small trailer uses a flat 4 wire plug. I want this truck to pull any trailer I ever need it to so I want to make sure and choose a configuration that I can work with down the road.

[Trekster]

I am a big believer in soldering the crimped connections. I assume that the junction box has a lid. Where did you get the junction box?

[OutlawDrifter]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Thank you. I like wiring work to stand the test of time. There's nothing worse than intermittent lights that you have to troubleshoot at the worst possible time.

I'm studying right now to figure out how I want to configure my trailer light plugs. My 18 foot trailer uses an RV plug which is common on modern trailers and my small trailer uses a flat 4 wire plug. I want this truck to pull any trailer I ever need it to so I want to make sure and choose a configuration that I can work with down the road.

i hate to admit it...but i had a 2004 F150 that had both hookups on the tow package. it was very handy! my silverado does not, it just has the larger RV plug, and i have run into instances when i needed a converter.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Trekster

I am a big believer in soldering the crimped connections. I assume that the junction box has a lid. Where did you get the junction box?

Here is the junction box. It does have a sealed cover that I haven't shown. Runs about 11 dollars.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Stud-Ty...n-Box/p_790202

Originally Posted by OutlawDrifter

i hate to admit it...but i had a 2004 F150 that had both hookups on the tow package. it was very handy! my silverado does not, it just has the larger RV plug, and i have run into instances when i needed a converter.

That's what I'm thinking. I can do one of those dual plug deals that has an RV plug and a 4 wire plug all in one unit. Then run an adapter if I ever need something different.

[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by OutlawDrifter

i hate to admit it...but i had a 2004 F150 that had both hookups on the tow package. it was very handy! my silverado does not, it just has the larger RV plug, and i have run into instances when i needed a converter.

I believe it is Hoppy that makes a replacement plug for the Silverados, it plugs right in to the 7wire harness after you remove the factory plug and has both 4 and 7 wire hookups. It will fit back in the hole on the factory plug's bracket, but doesn't snap in like factory, just drill 4 holes in the factory bracket and bolt it down.

You can get the same hookup in a universal that you wire up on your own as well that would work for the OP's situation.

I installed this setup on my 01, 03, and my 2000 F250, little FYI, Ford and GM use the same connector layout behind the 7way plug.




I just carry an adapter for our 6 way round trailer, everything else we have is either 7 or 4.

[aggie91]

I am with you on keeping the wiring for the long haul. I have done some temp wiring to get things moving, but always go back to make it right. I like how your wiring is done on this truck. Do the 2 single strips on each side have covers? I would be worried about something hitting those terminal studs and shorting out the wiring...

For your trailer plug issue and being neat and functional, this part is what I am looking to add to my 2004 Silverado HD so I do not have to use adapters...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-7-F...ht_1086wt_1362

I know it is a ford part, but it seems it is something that they got right for what you might want...just a thought for you!

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I am with you on keeping the wiring for the long haul. I have done some temp wiring to get things moving, but always go back to make it right. I like how your wiring is done on this truck. Do the 2 single strips on each side have covers? I would be worried about something hitting those terminal studs and shorting out the wiring...

For your trailer plug issue and being neat and functional, this part is what I am looking to add to my 2004 Silverado HD so I do not have to use adapters...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-7-F...ht_1086wt_1362

I know it is a ford part, but it seems it is something that they got right for what you might want...just a thought for you!

That plug is the perfect solution. Great price too. Nineteen bucks to ship it to me. Damn. Strike that one from the list.

I'm gonna look through my catalogs at the Hoppy stuff life GCncsuHD mentioned.

[Tx Firefighter]

Eighteen dollars and I can get Valerie to order it with her Amazon free shipping deal.

Amazon.com: Hopkins 48470 Multi-Tow Vehicle Side...

[Tx Firefighter]

I'm about to change gears again.

I got confirmation that my tailights shipped today so I'm waiting on that.

In the mean time, I ran the truck out of gas moving it around the shop today. Before I add gas, I need to address a few fuel system issues.

First, the truck won't take gas at any decent rate. I need to reconfigure the filler setup. It's got an unnecessary kink in it which is the problem I believe. It seems to have enough slope so I'm betting the kink is the bottleneck.





It seems to have enough slope otherwise.



I also need to fix these ghetto fab fuel lines. When the previous owner removed the other saddle tank he did some fantastic plumbing work to modify the system to single tank configuration.



Yes, that a bolt stuck into the line to block it off.

I also want to reconfigure the filler itself. The cap is buried behind a spring loaded door. Its in such tight confines that the cap had to be modified to fit. Its a real exercise in patience to remove and replace the cap with your fingertips with it not having anything to grab on to.





I welcome any and all suggestions on how to make this whole setup more sanitary and to flow fuel quicker when I'm fueling at the pump.

[eldogg]

Ive had the Hoppy 7/4 on my dually for at least 8 years now. No problems. Wiring looks nice. "Do it nice or do it twice"

[83GMCK2500]

Fuel fill...can you weld that hokey thing shut and put something like this in, more forward so a single 90 degree hose (like OEM) is usable?

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Fuel fill...can you weld that hokey thing shut and put something like this in, more forward so a single 90 degree hose (like OEM) is usable?

I can definitely weld. Coincidentally, I had just added that exact eBay auction to my list. I'm thinking one of those bezels, weld a straight pipe to my current filler neck in place of the crook, and connect the dots.

I think I'll go bid....