What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[zicc1835]

I bought this highlander/dark saddle skin for another project in 2018 and changed my mind on the color scheme on my Doc & Kim build which is under construction... then I recently found and purchased. my Grand Theft Auto dark blue stepper . I also bought over time from members on the board dark saddle OEM safety belts visors arm rests etc. this was meant to be .....I guess ...so I had a seat I was saving for Doc and Kim purchased new foam from LMC last week my upholstery guy gave the foam a thumbs up and here we
are...stay tuned ill try to do the switcharooo this weekend

[SRU1436]

Put a tach in the truck.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Last night I went out to the supermarket for groceries. The 292 L6 in my '68 C/10 started right up, and the engine was fine on the three mile run. After I got out of the store, it wouldn't start.
Gas gauge read 1/4 tank. Not empty, but I added the 5 gallons from the jerry can in the back, in case it was a fuel problem.
No start.
So I opened the hood and pulled off the HEI Distributor cap. [I was going to change out the Module in case it was burned out.] Aha! the Rotor was loose. Both screws had backed off and it was at a slight tilt. So I screwed the Rotor back on proper and tried again.
No start.
OK, I'd better try that glovebox Module. Meanwhile, searching in the crossbed toolbox, I found a NIB Rotor and an old Distributor cap. The old cap was worse than the new one.
I put the emergency Module in -- I didn't have any fresh White Heat Sink Paste, but there was a prodigeous amount under the bad module, so I put it in dry. The new Rotor went in, then the cap, and I reconnected the Plug lead back onto Sparkplug #1.
It did start, then sputtered and died.
I was unable to get the engine to keep running. Just a few seconds on it sputtered out, dead. Choke had no effect.
So I called a Tow truck. And we got it home after a couple of hours.
Distributor is the Remote Coil type.
The bad Module tested Bad at AutoZone. Got a new one under a Lifetime Warranty.
The Rotor had a Life Warranty at O'Reilly's, so I have a Cap and Rotor on order from them. The counter woman at O'Reilly's said they couldn't test the Module there. They'd taken away the test machine, she said.
[She lied. it's still there.]

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Last night I went out to the supermarket for groceries. The 292 L6 in my '68 C/10 started right up, and the engine was fine on the three mile run. After I got out of the store, it wouldn't start.
Gas gauge read 1/4 tank. Not empty, but I added the 5 gallons from the jerry can in the back, in case it was a fuel problem.
No start.
So I opened the hood and pulled off the HEI Distributor cap. [I was going to change out the Module in case it was burned out.] Aha! the Rotor was loose. Both screws had backed off and it was at a slight tilt. So I screwed the Rotor back on proper and tried again.
No start.
OK, I'd better try that glovebox Module. Meanwhile, searching in the crossbed toolbox, I found a NIB Rotor and an old Distributor cap. The old cap was worse than the new one.
I put the emergency Module in -- I didn't have any fresh White Heat Sink Paste, but there was a prodigeous amount under the bad module, so I put it in dry. The new Rotor went in, then the cap, and I reconnected the Plug lead back onto Sparkplug #1.
It did start, then sputtered and died.
I was unable to get the engine to keep running. Just a few seconds on it sputtered out, dead. Choke had no effect.
So I called a Tow truck. And we got it home after a couple of hours.
Distributor is the Remote Coil type.
The bad Module tested Bad at AutoZone. Got a new one under a Lifetime Warranty.
The Rotor had a Life Warranty at O'Reilly's, so I have a Cap and Rotor on order from them. The counter woman at O'Reilly's said they couldn't test the Module there. They'd taken away the test machine, she said.
[She lied. it's still there.]

You had quite an evening. I'll bet you're glad this happened in the stepside instead of the Jimmy. I envy the easy access to the distributor.

[zicc1835]

installed.....

[67C10Step]

Took advantage of a nice, sunny day to touch up the wood in my bed. I finished this about four years ago but over that time the pine has cracked a bit and was starting to look a little rough.

[brandnew72]

That bench seats looks very cool!

Thsu weekend was a success! Front bagged! Chopping Block control arms were a breeze to put in. No binding, tires sitting on fenders until the right rims are ordered...

Just had to adjust toe after install. Removed front inner fenders and got the shock relocators mounted. Drives nice! Waiting on panhard bar jamb nuts to adjust that. And fixed a small leak in the air tank as well.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

installed.....

That is a nice seat. Suddenly I'm hungry for Blueberry Pancakes. Don't know why.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

You had quite an evening. I'll bet you're glad this happened in the stepside instead of the Jimmy. I envy the easy access to the distributor.

Yeah The L6 has the Distributor in a good place.
Good news is I got her running.
Loose Rotor chewed up the inside Cap contacts. Irregular pulses burned out the Module.
Autozone warrantied me a Module. ORAP warrantied me fresh Rotor. Had to buy a new Cap. [Old one off eBay],
Pulled the Crank around to TDC w/5/8'' socket on breaker bar so Lines on HB matched O mark and Rotor pointed to #1 plugwire.
Reinstalled the whole business, hooked up the Batt and she fired right up.

[Johnl48]

Temporarily put the front bumper on

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Took advantage of a nice, sunny day to touch up the wood in my bed. I finished this about four years ago but over that time the pine has cracked a bit and was starting to look a little rough.

looking good ...you have a part # or vendor you bought the fuel door from you could share with me

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by Johnl48

Temporarily put the front bumper on

John we are not so distant neighbors hope to see you at the Hot Rod Farm or any of the other shows etc.in NJ goor lookin truck you are building is there a build thread?

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

That is a nice seat. Suddenly I'm hungry for Blueberry Pancakes. Don't know why.

TASTY love it ....

[Orange Crate]

Fixed it.

[Johnl48]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

John we are not so distant neighbors hope to see you at the Hot Rod Farm or any of the other shows etc.in NJ goor lookin truck you are building is there a build thread?

No, I haven't done a build thread yet. Trying hard to get it done for the summer shows. Here's a before picture

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by Johnl48

No, I haven't done a build thread yet. Trying hard to get it done for the summer shows. Here's a before picture

amazing .....there are some great inspirational builds here good luck on getting that beauty ready lets try to stay in touch this season

[KQQL IT]

Spent a day and a half fighting with a friends 454 that wouldn't run.

Pumped 12 gallons of water contaminated gas out. Swapped a carb re verified timing and a quick temporary fuel supply... and som b it ran fine.
Finally tried to get the pv4 proportioning valve installed on old blue... and boxed wrong.
I love old trucks
I love old trucks...

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

looking good ...you have a part # or vendor you bought the fuel door from you could share with me

Thank you! It's not as orange as the photo appears, the stain color is gun stock and toned down a bit when dry.

The fuel filler is a Boyd's Universal Flush Mount Kit. I got it when I installed the Boyd's tank in the rear. Can be found at the link below:

https://fueltankparts.com/products/b...floor-fill-kit

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

I bought this highlander/dark saddle skin for another project in 2018 and changed my mind on the color scheme on my Doc & Kim build which is under construction... then I recently found and purchased. my Grand Theft Auto dark blue stepper . I also bought over time from members on the board dark saddle OEM safety belts visors arm rests etc. this was meant to be .....I guess ...so I had a seat I was saving for Doc and Kim purchased new foam from LMC last week my upholstery guy gave the foam a thumbs up and here we
are...stay tuned ill try to do the switcharooo this weekend

That seat is beautiful.

[brandnew72]

Real simple today. Wired in the dual needle PSI gauge lights for the airbags to the accessory ignition power, protected with fuse.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

No pix, but today, a friend and I attacked my Starter problem on a '71 GMC Jimmy: 350 SBC/SM465/NP205/D44 Front, 12-Bolt rear, 3.73 w/Auburn posi.
[No-Start Gripe.]
We had to pull the Header on the passenger side to get to the Starter. Since I want to paint the Hedders white, anyway, we'll have to pull both. We got the passenger side off. Took the Starter into O'Reilly's for test and check. Flunked the Solenoid test. No surprize since it was installed 4/2008. [Lifetime Checker Auto warranty.] I had used an aftermarket Accel solenoid. That was shot -- the cap was loose, Solenoid is trapped behind the header so it got a lot of vibration and heat cycles in 16 years. I have a NIB bendix-type solenoid on the shelf. Gonna hook that on and go back for another test tomorrow or Tuesday.
Meanwhile to get the drivers side header free, I'll have to disassemble the whole Z-Bar and Clutch Pushrods and Clutch Fork business.
We ran out of daylight today.

Actually yesterday, I tried my new slime green creeper under the Jimmy. I disconnected my Lower Clutch Push Rod. My piece is custom and 15'' long. We had to go with a lengthened rod because the wrong size Throw-Out Bearing was instally, and my helper said ''No way'' to pulling the SM4695/NP205 tranny/xfer case lashup back off and trying again. We went with extending the Clutch Push Rod.
Clutch is a 3-Finger Borg & Beck. Clutch Pedal also has that stiff vertical spring under the dash. A machine shop [that also did some custom gunsmithing back in the day] built up my Push Rod. The rear section has a threaded extension that goes thru the hole in the Clutch Fork and is secured by a 1/2'' locknut. PO's idea that I kept. To get better reach, A Square Body clutch rod was spliced to the fron, giving over 4'' threading to to mount nuts and jamnuts securing the Z-Bar Swivel. A section of 9mm submachine gun barrel was welded over the angled splice. This system creates tension on the Clutch Fork. To work on any of the Z-Bar and clutch linkage, a ratchet strap from a chain looped over the rear axle and hooking the clutch fork was to be ratcheted back to relieve the tension.
Once the backpressure is releived, a Vicegrip pliers captures the Rod, so first the nuts on the ends can be pulled. The front nut comes off easy with a 9/16 deepwell on a ratchet, Then two 9/16 open wrenches loosen the Jam nuts.
Following that the aft-most 9/16 nut is worked back with short strokes [1/4 -- 1/3 turns] until pulled back enough to slip the elongated rear shaft out of the Clutch Fork hole.
Whole operation took me about 90 minutes,

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Actually yesterday, I tried my new slime green creeper under the Jimmy. I disconnected my Lower Clutch Push Rod. My piece is custom and 15'' long. We had to go with a lengthened rod because the wrong size Throw-Out Bearing was instally, and my helper said ''No way'' to pulling the SM4695/NP205 tranny/xfer case lashup back off and trying again. We went with extending the Clutch Push Rod.
Clutch is a 3-Finger Borg & Beck. Clutch Pedal also has that stiff vertical spring under the dash. A machine shop [that also did some custom gunsmithing back in the day] built up my Push Rod. The rear section has a threaded extension that goes thru the hole in the Clutch Fork and is secured by a 1/2'' locknut. PO's idea that I kept. To get better reach, A Square Body clutch rod was spliced to the fron, giving over 4'' threading to to mount nuts and jamnuts securing the Z-Bar Swivel. A section of 9mm submachine gun barrel was welded over the angled splice. This system creates tension on the Clutch Fork. To work on any of the Z-Bar and clutch linkage, a ratchet strap from a chain looped over the rear axle and hooking the clutch fork was to be ratcheted back to relieve the tension.
Once the backpressure is releived, a Vicegrip pliers captures the Rod, so first the nuts on the ends can be pulled. The front nut comes off easy with a 9/16 deepwell on a ratchet, Then two 9/16 open wrenches loosen the Jam nuts.
Following that the aft-most 9/16 nut is worked back with short strokes [1/4 -- 1/3 turns] until pulled back enough to slip the elongated rear shaft out of the Clutch Fork hole.
Whole operation took me about 90 minutes,

I wonder if the high stiffness of the Borg & Beck clutch is why your z-bar has failed a few times over the years.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I wonder if the high stiffness of the Borg & Beck clutch is why your z-bar has failed a few times over the years.

Could be. I figured it was beause the "Ears" were joggled, plus a lot of doube clutching in city traffic, plus Over-Fifty steel/metal fatigue.
I had CenterForce II clutch on before the Borg & Beck -- also stiff.
All these factors gang up.
How long is the stock Rod?

Attached a pic of my Super Lower Clutch Push Rod:

[pjmoreland]

I believe these are stock clutch push rods for a K10.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I believe these are stock clutch push rods for a K10.

Is the tail end threaded on those? Looks like it on the top one.

C- Series trucks don't have any terminal nut there.