Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by matthamby

Yeah, I was figuring the track width would change, wondering how much, I plan on installing a front suspension cradle out of an 85 model that I have a contact for. so the front end should push out with that, trying to find exactly what I need, wonder if a rear end out of a 4x4 in those years would be the same width?

"fixing" one thing brings up another to be "fixed"!

No difference in the 4x4 rear widths that I know of.

[HAVE 1970 GMC]

I have a 1970 GMC 3500 Wideside (longhorn) (1 ton) with 8 lug wheels. Do I look for a 1973 - up to do a disk conversion. This sound a lot cheaper and easier a a old fart on a very limited budget. Any help is appreciated.

[Captainfab]

You could use a '71-'86 C30 or a '87-'91 R3500 front suspension. Also the G3500 vans are good donors also, but the crossmember is different.

[kaneerarchery]

Has anyone tried the bracket etc. from Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC? They say you do not have to remove your spindle and it uses 95-98 3/4 ton rotors and calipers. They say they provide brackets, bearing spacers and hardware. Also able to use a 1/2 ton rotor from the same years to get 5X5" bolt pattern.

[Captainfab]

I have not. Is that a cheaper option that picking up a good used '73-'87 C10 spindle, rotor and caliper?

Originally Posted by kaneerarchery

Has anyone tried the bracket etc. from Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC? They say you do not have to remove your spindle and it uses 95-98 3/4 ton rotors and calipers. They say they provide brackets, bearing spacers and hardware. Also able to use a 1/2 ton rotor from the same years to get 5X5" bolt pattern.

[Intimudator]

I'm new to this so I hope this is in the right location. II have read everything I can find and have not found an absolute answer ( unless I missed it in the 21 pages of this lol) I have a 1961 Chevy C30. Can I swap spindles or crossmember on my truck to convert to disk? I have the spindles somewhere I took off my 1985 1ton crew when I converted it to 4x4 can I use them? Some of the stuff I have read has been contradicting so I would like to hear from someone that has actually done it or seen it so I know for sure. Most things point to it can not be done on a 60-61 c30 only, in hoping this is not true. Thanks
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[aggie91]

Intimudator - First off, welcome to the forum. I think you will find this site to be very helpful.

It basically comes down to the ball joints and tie rods...

I am not versed in the 60-62 torsion bar front suspension, so here is what you need to look at: If the ball joints are changed to the '85 1 ton ball joints, then yes the spindle will bolt up...NOW, will the ball joints actually fit the control arms for your '61 C30? I don't know that. I would check the OD of the lower '85 BJ against the OD of the lower '61 BJ, if they are the same size, then yes it should press into the arm. I believe the upper control arms use a bolt in style, if the '61 is the same as what was in my '65, than the upper BJ is a direct bolt in for the '85 upper BJ.

As for swapping the arms themselves, the lower want work because of the torsion bar from suspension under your '61.

Now, the tie rods, this can be solved by using an adapter sleeve if the thread sizes are different between the years like the C10's are.

Good luck, let us know what you decide to do and how it works out!

[Intimudator]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Intimudator - First off, welcome to the forum. I think you will find this site to be very helpful.

It basically comes down to the ball joints and tie rods...

I am not versed in the 60-62 torsion bar front suspension, so here is what you need to look at: If the ball joints are changed to the '85 1 ton ball joints, then yes the spindle will bolt up...NOW, will the ball joints actually fit the control arms for your '61 C30? I don't know that. I would check the OD of the lower '85 BJ against the OD of the lower '61 BJ, if they are the same size, then yes it should press into the arm. I believe the upper control arms use a bolt in style, if the '61 is the same as what was in my '65, than the upper BJ is a direct bolt in for the '85 upper BJ.

As for swapping the arms themselves, the lower want work because of the torsion bar from suspension under your '61.

Now, the tie rods, this can be solved by using an adapter sleeve if the thread sizes are different between the years like the C10's are.

Good luck, let us know what you decide to do and how it works out!

Thank you for the fast response. I was hoping to hear some one has actually done it but I will go measure them and go from there, I'll keep everyone posted so everyone on here will know for sure if it can be done
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[Captainfab]

I have seen a couple '60-'62 C 30's that had coil springs in the front. If yours does have coil springs, you should be able to change the balljoints and bolt on the '85 spindles. If you have a torsion bar front suspension, that will not work. You will have to change the entire front suspension including the crossmember.

[Intimudator]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I have seen a couple '60-'62 C 30's that had coil springs in the front. If yours does have coil springs, you should be able to change the balljoints and bolt on the '85 spindles. If you have a torsion bar front suspension, that will not work. You will have to change the entire front suspension including the crossmember.

I have torsion bars. Could I modify the control arms(weld) ball joints to fit or they completely different? Will the complete suspension bolt in without cutting up the truck where it could never be taken back to stock or just drilling holes?
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[Captainfab]

It would take a lot of fab work to install the '85 lower ball joints. I would just change the entire suspension. It is no different than on a '60-'62 C10 or C20. Mainly just a bunch of holes to drill. If you had a '63-'66 it would only be one hole on each side to drill and one to elongate on each side.

Originally Posted by Intimudator

I have torsion bars. Could I modify the control arms(weld) ball joints to fit or they completely different? Will the complete suspension bolt in without cutting up the truck where it could never be taken back to stock or just drilling holes?
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[CC's 62]

I have a 62 step side. Everything on it is stock except for the alternator thats been added. I would like to add disc brakes to the front for now and also lower it. I've read through all 21 pages and have come to the conclusion that for those of us with a 60-62 who want disc brakes, to keep our torsion bars and to lower it, our only option is aftermarket drop spindles and turning the torsion bars. Is this correct? Also thanks to everyone for all the great info on here.

[botoepfer]

So after I read almost the complete 17 pages , Is the six lug front conversion viable without a cross member swap?

I have a 1963 I would at least like to add power front disc brakes and more over 4 wheel power disc brakes,

but the question remains is the aliment issue resolved and am I clear on what parts I need to hunt up


Thanks Happy new year

[Captainfab]

If you are wanting to keep your torsion bars, then yes you will have to purchase the aftermarket dropped spindles specifically for converting a '60-'62 to disc brakes

Originally Posted by CC's 62

I have a 62 step side. Everything on it is stock except for the alternator thats been added. I would like to add disc brakes to the front for now and also lower it. I've read through all 21 pages and have come to the conclusion that for those of us with a 60-62 who want disc brakes, to keep our torsion bars and to lower it, our only option is aftermarket drop spindles and turning the torsion bars. Is this correct? Also thanks to everyone for all the great info on here.

Having 6 lug disc brakes on the front is simply a matter of purchasing the aftermarket 6 lug rotors. bolting on disc brake spindles is simply a matter of changing the ball joints and bolting them on. It may be possible to not change the balljoints these days as I believe there are spindles specifically for the '63-'70 trucks. Back when I starting upgrading to disc brakes, there was no such thing as dropped spindles.

As for converting your rear to disc brakes, that is not easily done with a '63 12 bolt as the backing plates are pressed onto the axle tubes. That is why my rear disc brake brackets are designed to be used on the '64-'87 truck 10 and 12 bolt differentials. There is nothing on a '63 12 bolt to bolt the brackets to. If at some time during the past 55 years, the differential has been changed to a '64 and newer differential, you are in luck

Originally Posted by botoepfer

So after I read almost the complete 17 pages , Is the six lug front conversion viable without a cross member swap?

I have a 1963 I would at least like to add power front disc brakes and more over 4 wheel power disc brakes,

but the question remains is the aliment issue resolved and am I clear on what parts I need to hunt up


Thanks Happy new year

[CC's 62]

Thanks Cap'n. I was also wondering why the oem 15" steelies wont fit if I swap to disc. Is the diameter not enough to clear the calipers or is there not enough backspacing? Would I have to go up to a 16" wheel or could I find a 15" aftermarket steely with enough backspacing?

[Captainfab]

The factory 15" wheels will not work with disc brakes because of the design of the inside of the wheel. They will not clear the calipers. It does not have anything to do with the backspacing, they just have to be disc brake compatible wheels

Originally Posted by CC's 62

Thanks Cap'n. I was also wondering why the oem 15" steelies wont fit if I swap to disc. Is the diameter not enough to clear the calipers or is there not enough backspacing? Would I have to go up to a 16" wheel or could I find a 15" aftermarket steely with enough backspacing?

[botoepfer]

Cap'n Fab please forgive me as I know I have asked this before Just can't find your answer,, In adding the front disc, and keeping the stock rear brakes, What booster? Master cylinder should I be on the lookout for,, with your adaptor bracket. ! Thanks,, Bo

[Captainfab]

As for compatible boosters, in addition to those mentioned in post #1 of the for sale thread, there is a larger list of compatible boosters in post #183 on page 8. Every one of my booster brackets come with an expanded list including parts numbers.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...=339081&page=8

As for a master cylinder. You do not have to use the master that comes on a given booster. You can use a different master cylinder as long as it is compatible with the length of the intermediate pushrod. The master needs to be somewhat matched to the type of braking system you will be running, ie: drum/drum, disc/drum or disc/disc.

Originally Posted by botoepfer

Cap'n Fab please forgive me as I know I have asked this before Just can't find your answer,, In adding the front disc, and keeping the stock rear brakes, What booster? Master cylinder should I be on the lookout for,, with your adaptor bracket. ! Thanks,, Bo

[Materi1]

I have read threw all the pages and couldnt find an answer i need. Maybe I am over looking it. I have a ‘63 and am gonna swap over to the 73-87. I plan on keeping the 63 front crossmember and using the new/better spindles,upper/lower control arms and steering components. I have the smaller I6 just not sure which one yet. I want to keep the 63 manual steering box as the power steering brackets are outta the budget right now. Will the 73-87 pitman arm bolt up to this??? I plan on using airbags so can inuse the stock spindles or are drop spindles recomended if i go that route

[Captainfab]

The '73-'87 pitman arm will NOT bolt up to your original manual steering box. It is possible that the '63 pitman arm will fit the '73-'87 draglink tight enough. I have not tried that particular combination but I have installed a '73-'87 pitman arm into a '66 draglink.

[botoepfer]

I just had a pretty good score, I picked up a 1983 C10 with PS and PB I have ordered my Capt Fab parts,, I hope to capture picture of the install,, from what I have read I can do the swap from the ball joints out!

My truck is a 1963 C10,, plus I should be able to part out the 83 and get my $ back as it has pretty good sheet metal and a few other accoessories

This is a great post ! Thanks you to all the contributors!

[64RC20]

Hello Everyone...

I just became a registered user today. Hooray!

I want to take this opportunity to express my thanks and gratitude for everyone who has ever posted here, not just on this thread, but everywhere in this forum. You folks really make this a better world, for sure!

[64RC20]

And now it's crunch time!

I've got a mostly stock '64 C20, with its original front brakes and single chamber master cylinder. And way back in 1982, I had a great shop down in Los Angeles swap out my original 4.55/1 stock rear end to a '76 (if memory serves) C20 14 bolt rear end, and I had that upgraded to a 3.21 ring and pinion. (My 80 mile/day commute was killing me on gas and this swap jumped me up from 10.5ish mpg to 14.5ish mpg!). Hooray!

It's finally time for brakes again and I intend, at minimum, to split the front and rear brakes and convert to a dual chamber M/C. But converting to discs is something I never thought practical...until I found this forum. Now that I've read through every single post in this thread (all 21 pages worth!) plus several other related posts, I now know it is eminently doable. But one key point has eluded me. It's similar to MATERI1's question from a few posts back..

I am also not sure of what a 73-87 C20 front suspension swap will require with regard to my manual steering box, which I also want to keep. I have just found a '79 C20 donor truck where I can get the entire front suspension: crossmember, steering, brakes, etc, for $200 (haven't seen it yet, though). But I don't know whether my old pitman arm will bolt up to it. Or can I use the donor truck's pitman arm on my old manual steering box (not likely, per Captainfab...but mine's a '64 C20...is there hope!)? Or...can I bolt up a '79 C20 manual steering box without any modifications? (Autozone has them...sigh!)

[Captainfab]

No you can not use a '73+ power steering pitman arm on your '64 manual steering box. If you are planning on using the '79 steering linkage( which I recommend) you can use the '79 manual steering box. However I think you will still need a steering box adapter plate. It's been so long since I have seen a '73+ manual steering box I don't remember if it also needs the dimple in the frame for clearance.

Are you staying with manual brakes too?

[64RC20]

No, if I can accomplish this disc upgrade, I'll definitely want a booster/MC and proportining valve. And with my Social Security budget, I'm open to suggestions on those parts...I found a combo package at Classic Parts but it's over $300 and though it looks nice, I'm hoping to find a less expensive alternative!

My previous engine spun a cam bearing and died (a used 350...lasted 29 years, God bless it) right after I invested $1200 on nice new wheels and tires, so I wanted to protect that $1200 investment. Got lucky on another used 350 from PicknPull ($150 out the door, plus another $100 or so in timing chain, gaskets, etc.). Got lucky there...perfect compression and it runs like a Swiss watch! But now my brakes are wanting attention. So now I'm trying to get them done, including splitting front from rear, as cheaply and safely as possible. When I found this forum, I realized disc brakes were doable.

(If my next posts looks weird, it's because I'm gonna try to use the "quote message in reply" function. That's another learning curve where I'm still looking way up!)