Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[Captainfab]

The '63-'66 booster bracket will not work on a '67-'72. Unlike all of the big name parts sellers, I make booster brackets that are a direct fit for each specific year range of truck.

Originally Posted by HSRACER

I bought one from you for my 64 and never used it. Looking at your thread it looks like it won’t work on the 67 I have now, is that correct?

[HSRACER]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The '63-'66 booster bracket will not work on a '67-'72. Unlike all of the big name parts sellers, I make booster brackets that are a direct fit for each specific year range of truck.

Thanks what I figured seeing the details of your post. I am going to convert from drums to disc from a 71 I have taken the loaded spindles off of and buy some 6 lug rotors. I will see how much pedal pressure it takes to stop and might add a power booster if it is to hard.

The 67 has an LS in it and they mounted the factory computer on the fender which is right in the way of adding a booster. Always something with these upgrades!

[HSRACER]

Originally Posted by HSRACER

Thanks what I figured seeing the details of your post. I am going to convert from drums to disc from a 71 I have taken the loaded spindles off of and buy some 6 lug rotors. I will see how much pedal pressure it takes to stop and might add a power booster if it is to hard.

The 67 has an LS in it and they mounted the factory computer on the fender which is right in the way of adding a booster. Always something with these upgrades!

I am looking to see if you make a bracket that will allow me to put on a brake booster on my 67 C10 with the stock all drum brake master cylinder I currently have.

Trying to take the easy route before figuring out all the disc brake and drop spindle options out there.

I just want to drive the truck with out manual brakes for awhile as I determine my next upgrades.

Thank you for your assistance

[HSRACER]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The '63-'66 booster bracket will not work on a '67-'72. Unlike all of the big name parts sellers, I make booster brackets that are a direct fit for each specific year range of truck.

I am looking to see if you make a bracket that will allow me to put on a brake booster on my 67 C10 with the stock all drum brake master cylinder I currently have.

Trying to take the easy route before figuring out all the disc brake and drop spindle options out there.

I just want to drive the truck with out manual brakes for awhile as I determine my next upgrades.

Thank you for your assistance

[Captainfab]

Please be patient. I only have time to log into this forum once a day after I get home from my 10-12 hour work day. I always reply to all PM's. I replied to your PM from this morning.

[The Rocknrod]

I found this informing thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...57&postcount=3

[Stickboy1968]

Can anyone tell me the fix to the positive camber problem that stems from using the 88-98 spindles on the 68 crossmember? I did all the steps and used the parts from the thread and my truck has HUGE positive camber without any shims. There was another thread that discussed this problem but no fix was explained. In my mind either I need to switch to 73-87 upper control arms and use the MOOG offset cross shaft to move the upper control arm inward or relocate the upper ball joint inward.

[newtious]

Originally Posted by Stickboy1968

Can anyone tell me the fix to the positive camber problem that stems from using the 88-98 spindles on the 68 crossmember? I did all the steps and used the parts from the thread and my truck has HUGE positive camber without any shims. There was another thread that discussed this problem but no fix was explained. In my mind either I need to switch to 73-87 upper control arms and use the MOOG offset cross shaft to move the upper control arm inward or relocate the upper ball joint inward.

I did this too.. used linkage from my 98 that i was scrapping.. easiest.. fastest.. cheapest.. was for me to pull the upper and lower control arms off a 73 to 87 and grab the steering linkage from the same doner.. i never got the allignment right with any parts after 87.. i drove it for a week scrubbin the edges off my tires and i mean it realllllly pulled once you turned the slightest bit.. i welded the adjusters cause the threads didnt match.. i lived about 5 blocks from the shop and was sweatin the entire trip home and back.. i dont reccomend driving it like it is.. and i feel stupid for doing it as i know better..

You dont need the cross member .. unless you changed yours.. i have a 68 c10 and a 68 c20.. the upper and lower from the square bodies bolted right up to my 68 c20 cross member.. and it measured up with the c10 also.. and the guy at the allignment shop said hes never seen one of the old trucks line up so well! So thats a perk..


If you plan on dropping the thing.. just buy the spindles and rotors you want online.. i had a low budget after rebuilding the 98 parts.. just know that there is a known clearance issue with stock rims hitting the brake caliper if you lower it.. the spindles and discs usually cost extra at the used yard.. and rotors are usually rusted to **** from sitting.. but the calipers are wort pricing the core on.. having old ones you picked up for 20 each saves the core of 40 each.. (im canadian.. pricing is likely off for you) if you buy used spindles.. inspect them for wear..

Hope this helps..

[Captainfab]

There are posts on page 16 of this thread recommending against using the '88-'98 LD 2500 spindles and rotors for 6 lug discs, due to this issue being discovered. I do not currently have an easy solution for this issue. A shorter upper control are would certainly help.

Originally Posted by Stickboy1968

Can anyone tell me the fix to the positive camber problem that stems from using the 88-98 spindles on the 68 crossmember? I did all the steps and used the parts from the thread and my truck has HUGE positive camber without any shims. There was another thread that discussed this problem but no fix was explained. In my mind either I need to switch to 73-87 upper control arms and use the MOOG offset cross shaft to move the upper control arm inward or relocate the upper ball joint inward.

[GBCustoms]

Hey Guys, I have a 66 Gmc Burb that i used a 77 c10 donor for the conversion. Aftermarket 2" drop spindle 6 lug. I am having an issue with my turning radius. I am hitting the spindle stop to the left, but turning right stops way short. its like the steering box is maxed out and wont turn any further to the right. Any Ideas?

[Captainfab]

If you also installed power steering, the turning radius needs to be adjusted/equalized due to the thickness of the steering box adapter plate. This is typically done at the same time as an alignment.

[GBCustoms]

Ok, thanks for the info. I own a custom upholstery shop so I'm a wiz inside the truck. Its everything else that confuses me.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by GBCustoms

Hey Guys, I have a 66 Gmc Burb that i used a 77 c10 donor for the conversion. Aftermarket 2" drop spindle 6 lug. I am having an issue with my turning radius. I am hitting the spindle stop to the left, but turning right stops way short. its like the steering box is maxed out and wont turn any further to the right. Any Ideas?

I had that problem. Had to cut 1" off the left tie rod to get it right. Basically line up the pitman arm with the box and adjust your toe from there. To get it close you can use a tape measure on the front and back of the wheels. Just use the same tire groove in the front and back. This will at least let you get it to the alignment shop.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

I had that problem. Had to cut 1" off the left tie rod to get it right. Basically line up the pitman arm with the box and adjust your toe from there. To get it close you can use a tape measure on the front and back of the wheels. Just use the same tire groove in the front and back. This will at least let you get it to the alignment shop.

I would think the steering linkage would be close to begin with. I doubt the linkage was off by that much from the donor.
The way I thought to solve it was to get your wheels pointing straight, then remove the pitman arm from the steering box, then turn the steering wheel one way until the power steering box hits stop, then turn the steering wheel the other way - counting the rotations - until it hits stop, then turn it again back the other way - counting the rotations - half the total rotations stop to stop, then reinstall the pitman arm to the steering box. Now you'll have the same turning radius both directions. That's how I thought it was to be done.

[Chuck78]

Hi fellas,

I'm about to do a 73-87 (1991 Suburban junkyard front end; 88-91 Suburban = 73-87 pickup front suspension) front crossmember swap on my 62 GMC big block V6.

The 60-62 ball bearing wheel bearings may as well be obsolete as the only available replacements are inferior quality and will burn up frequently, ball joints are OBSCENELY EXPENSIVE & getting scarce (& mine are worn out), and I got a nice set of 5 lug American Racing Torque Thrust D wheels and had my rear axles welded up, machined smooth, and re-drilled for 5 lug. So a 5 lug front with readily available parts, disc brakes, and a sway bar is a welcome upgrade without a doubt.


Here is some great info for this conversion:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...54#post4432154

and specific swap photos/info for a 60-62:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366850





I also wanted to point out for those looking for a 6 lug rear disc setup, modern Dana 44's on Isuzu Rodeo's (also rebadged as Honda Passport?) from 1993 or 1994+ or maybe it was 1998, are 6 lug on 5.5" and these can be swapped onto our rear ends with a little modifying of axle register or rotor hole, and bolt pattern adjustment to backing plates, and actually the whole rear can be swapped and is a slight bit narrower than the GM corporate rear ends from later models, so this is a welcome thing for the early model 60-66 trucks that use a narrower width rear. IF someone has a rear end needing replaced. Of course suspension mounting points would need to be fabbed/modded. Then you can do the front end swap and use 6 lug aftermarket rotors if needed.






I also would like to point you towards a GMC truck Dana 44 rear end disc brake conversion thread that I started, and compiled a ton of info on, for late model Dana 44 rear brake setups with integral rotor hat drum parking brakes, vs the now getting scarce old Cadillac Eldorado/Seville Riviera Toronado & WS6 Trans Am rear disc calipers with the mechanical worm gear parking brake actuator assembly built into the hydraulic piston. These have been very popular for swaps, but are getting scarce and with expensive core charges, but using some big ford 9" application brackets for these calipers, can be bolted directly to the Dana 44 GMC rears.

https://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.php?p=71172

[Asshat]

For a 1963 C20, is it possible to just use the parts from a 1987 3/4 ton, rather than swapping out the entire front end?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

For a 1963 C20, is it possible to just use the parts from a 1987 3/4 ton, rather than swapping out the entire front end?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...81&postcount=6

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...81&postcount=6

I think that was the wrong link, it referenced this thread.

[Captainfab]

The unknown is whether the '71+ C20 disc brake lower ball joint will press into the '63-'66 C20 lower control arm. I have one person that told me that he did it, but I have not confirmed this myself.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I think that was the wrong link, it referenced this thread.

It was just a single post that referenced the answer to your question.

A complete x-member swap is not required. One can swap over the disc brake required parts to a drum brake truck for the upgrade on both 1/2 ton or their heavier duty 3/4 & 1-ton counterparts. Required parts would be new replacement wearable pieces (BJ's, TRE's) as well as possibly needing the later a-arms & other possible items vs. just swapping BJ's to the existing arms.

[LostMy65]

I didn't think swapping out the front crossmember was a complex task at all. Now all my front end parts are all 1979.

[Asshat]

So, here’s my understanding so far.

If I want to keep my C20 ¾ ton truck 8-lug, and NOT install a complete crossmember, I can use the parts from a 7-87 C20.
This would include:
• Lower ball joints (not sure if they will press into 63 LCA)
• Spindles
• Tie rods
• Rotors
• Calipers
• LCA from the 73-87 cannot be used on the 63
• Upper ball joints from a 63 are ok to use

However, if I buy after-market spindles (not sure if this is a kit?) then I do not need to change the ball joints or the tie rods. I can use what is standard on the 63. If this is the case, I would probably need to buy the after-market rotors and calipers that fit these after-market spindles.
This is my interpretation of the info from the FAQ:
"Drum to Disc" conversions 63-66*
________________________________________
DRUM TO DISC CONVERSIONS 63-66

63-66 truck with:
63-66 Crossmember Installed:
1) There are many advantage to leaving your 63-66 crossmember in place to add disc brakes.

2) 63-66 truck owners can now purchase "year specific" standard and drop spindles, from many aftermarket suspension vendors.
* No need to change ball joints.
* No need to change tie rod ends.
* These new "conversion disc brake spindles" are a true "bolt-on" mod to add disc brakes to your truck.

3) The 63-66 a-arms can also be used with any other spindle (71-72 or 73-87) with a simple ball joint change.
* The upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rods must match the correct year of spindle you choose.

4) You will need a "conversion" rubber brake hose to connect your disc brake caliper to your existing steel brake line.

5) Keeping your original 63-66 crossmember allows to to leave the engine and transmission in place.
* No need to remove drivetrain.
* No need to temporarily support the engine, while removing the crossmember.
* Complete disassembly of the front suspension also allows you the ability to clean, inspect, replace or rebuild all the individual components.


Links:
*http://www.classicperform.com/discdrop.htm
*http://www.earlyclassic.com/Tech.asp...20That%20Truck
*http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...all/index.html

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[Captainfab]

Today I contacted the forum member that said that he used the disc brake lower ball joint in a '63-'66 C20 lower control arm and he verified that it did indeed press into the LCA. He is someone that I trust with accurate info.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Today I contacted the forum member that said that he used the disc brake lower ball joint in a '63-'66 C20 lower control arm and he verified that it did indeed press into the LCA. He is someone that I trust with accurate info.

Did he say what part number? Was it part of a kit?

[Captainfab]

He is going to get back to me on the part number of the lower ball joint. No he did not buy a kit. There is no need for that when you can simply buy all the parts at your local auto parts store except for the spindles. As far as I know it is just a '73-'87 C20 lower ball joint........they are all the same.

Originally Posted by Asshat

Did he say what part number? Was it part of a kit?