Dropmember in a 69 C10

[Sweet 85 C10]

Porterbuilt just bring this Topic back to the top for everyone! Happy Holidays!

[edflores]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Not trying to speak for Nathan, but I think he already answered this "somewhere". I believe his response was "why?". ART Has done a great job of spending lots of money to R&R the Strong Arms. No need to reinvent them when he has many other Dropmember applications in the works.

ha. i was also going to ask that. but my reason would be too narow the track width even more. i am probably having narrow arms made with uniballs. for the price of art arms, i had to look for an alternative.

[dan468]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Here is an updated pricing and options list for the Dropmember. I have included part descriptions and part numbers to aid those who may want to purchase components separately or elsewhere to possibly save a few bucks. I will be adding a sway bar option shortly.

I have gone back and forth with being a middle man on some of the parts/components that I do not build in house. I have decided to move forward and deal with some of the headaches associated with relying on other people/companies to better serve my customers. Please keep in mind I am only the middle man on everything except the fabricated Dropmember components. I rely on others information that I pass on to my customers in regards to shipping times.


Dropmember $1350
Includes the following: Main cross-member; Inner frame support plates; Exterior frame plate/upper control arm/bag mounts; motor mounts; trans cross-member; tie-rod end adapters and heavy duty heim joints (includes misalignment spacers and hardware); grade 8 hardware to install cross-member; rack and pinion mounting bushings; frame c-notch for rack and pinion tie-rod clearance; upper shock mounts and inner frame support (to be used with Air Ride Technologies' newly designed lower control arm and Monroe shock (part#32245) or equivalent.


Options

Rack and Pinion (Mustang II rack and pinion 1979-1993)
Manual Mustang II rack and pinion $230 (Unisteer part#8000440)
Power Mustang II rack and pinion $250 (Unisteer part#8010020)
Chrome Power Mustang II rack $499 (Unisteer part#8010390)

Unisteer Steering Joints and Linkage (these pieces are all polished stainless)

*I have found best results using three single u-joints. It is also necessary to use a steering shaft support/idler with this configuration.

*The u-joint on the column has a couple different options depending on the output shaft. The most common shaft ends are either a 3/4-36 spline or a 3/4 smooth.

Column end joints:
3/4-36 x 3/4DD $69.95 (part#8050240)
or
3/4 smooth x 3/4DD $69.95 (part#8050330)

Center joint:
3/4DD x 3/4DD $69.95 (part#8050330)

Rack joints:
Manual Rack- 9/16-26 x 3/4DD $69.95 (part#8050230)
Power Rack- 3/4-36 x 3/4DD $69.95 (part#8050240)

Steering Shaft:
DD shaft 23" $30.00 (part#8050520)
Idler Support $40.00 (part#8050770)


Shocks:
Monroe part#32245 $99.80 (pair)
Air Ride Billet Adjustable Shock part#SHO2000 $359.00 (pair)


Air Ride Technologies Strong Arms:
*(following prices does not include bags or shocks)

LUCA11800 (1963-1970) $749
LUCA11801 (1971-1972) $749
LUCA11802 (1973-1987) $749



Slam Specialties Air Bags
RE7 $75


Supporting board members will receive a 5% discount on all purchases.

Do you have any pictures of the set up with 3 single u-joints?

Thanks!
Dan

[slammed1]

Porterbuilt,really nice craftsmanship,welding and fabrication. I was checking out the thread and looking at all the features of the Dropmember and wanted to see if you had a picture of one particular item. I was interested in seeing the rack & pinion c-nothc for the frame up in the front. I know you have addressed it and I seen somewhat of a picture showing it but I wanted to know if you had an inside frame rail shot of therack notch itself. Is there a plate for strengthening up that part of the frame along with the notch or is it just a notch to go in with no boxing of the frame in that area?? Great products,and ingenuity.

[gringoloco]

Look here for notch pics. There is no boxing, but I don't see why it would be necessary. You could box it in for peace of mind, I guess...

[slammed1]

Thanks for the link,your project is coming along very nicely.I want a blazer.

[PBFAB.COM]

Thanks for the help Gringo!

Because the rack and pinion is attached directly to the Dropmember, there is no longer any large amount of stress from the steering components on the frame in front of the notch... It could be boxed for looks and "overkill". I did not see any cause to design/build the notch differently.

Dan-

I don't have any good pics of the triple-single-u-joint set-up. I set-up Kyle's blazer this way, but failed to take any good pics. It was originally set-up with a double on the column and a single at the rack... if you search the Blazer forum for Dropmember his build comes up. There are a couple of bad pics on pages 5 & 6 if i recall.

[slammed1]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Thanks for the help Gringo!

Because the rack and pinion is attached directly to the Dropmember, there is no longer any large amount of stress from the steering components on the frame in front of the notch... It could be boxed for looks and "overkill". I did not see any cause to design/build the notch differently.

Dan-

I don't have any good pics of the triple-single-u-joint set-up. I set-up Kyle's blazer this way, but failed to take any good pics. It was originally set-up with a double on the column and a single at the rack... if you search the Blazer forum for Dropmember his build comes up. There are a couple of bad pics on pages 5 & 6 if i recall.

I thank you for the pics and expanation. I realize the rack position dont allow for much flex like a steering box would,was just looking for a few clearer pics of the actual rack notch.
You guys are Porterbuilt do awesome work,too bad I dont live closer.
I am sometimes a little more over cautious I guess,when I built my c-notch for the back of my 72 I went ahead and partially boxed that rear portion of the frame.....I guess for aesthetics mainly.

[PBFAB.COM]

Nothing wrong with over engineering or over building something!

It definitely never hurts to box any part of the chassis... especially after cutting it!

[bagged74]

Slammed1, I have a dropmember in my 72 blazer. You are more than welcome to come by and check it out. Im in pocola

[slammed1]

Originally Posted by bagged74

Slammed1, I have a dropmember in my 72 blazer. You are more than welcome to come by and check it out. Im in pocola

Cool thanks for the offer. I suppose you know the Cox's over there,or are you related??No offense meant if your not,they build cool stuff and usually have a 67-72 project running at all times.

[bagged74]

lol....im not related, but i know them very well. I do their audio/video work. Along with anything else electrical they need help with

[gregfull]

How is the dropmember coming for the 55-59 trucks? I made a 200+ mile long run in the 55 Cameo with the straight axle front end and was exhausted from chasing it all over the highway. I need an IFS, preferably bolt-in. I know you're busy with other projects, but you had mentioned last year you were working on one. Thanks.

[cmt45169]

Hey everyone. Been reading and drooling on this for awhile!! May have missed it earlier, but will I need to do any drive shaft modification (shortening,etc.) with a dropmember install?

[1LoC10]

just a little info... at the top of this thread you can do a search only in this thread....
just click search this thread and type in driveshaft

[66chevy PROSTREET]

do you have to switch to rack and pinion with the drop member ?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 66chevy PROSTREET

do you have to switch to rack and pinion with the drop member ?

Yep. No gettin' 'round it...

[66chevy PROSTREET]

with the basic kit, you have to find your own rack, or is that standard?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by 66chevy PROSTREET

with the basic kit, you have to find your own rack, or is that standard?

Basic kit does NOT include the rack and pinion. Summit racing is running a good deal on a quality unit:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

[66chevy PROSTREET]

thankyou

[gringoloco]

You can also pick one up from your local parts house for about $100- core charge included. They are rebuilt and painted black, but warrantied and work well if you're not looking for bling...

[pig rig]

HOLLY SMOKES!!!!!
thats a lot of reading I had to bring it up to the top so I can set and read it agine tomorrow at work and not wast time hunting for it

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

You can also pick one up from your local parts house for about $100- core charge included. They are rebuilt and painted black, but warrantied and work well if you're not looking for bling...

Which truck was that off of by chance? Been a long time since you said that, but figured I'd ask

Nevermind, just looked on the application on summit's site for the rack Nate posted. 79-93 mustang unit, makes sense.

[BFRO$TY]

so me and the old man have finally came to the conclusion that we are gettin one, where could i go to figure out how much it'd cost to get one of these to my front door?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by BFRO$TY

... where could i go to figure out how much it'd cost to get one of these to my front door?

This should get you there- www.porterbuiltstreetrods.com