Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[First c10]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I have seen a couple builds here where they sliced and diced the cowl a bit, nothing I have done so I can advise much on that. It does look like that maybe the addition of a length of welding rod to the rear of the passenger side may help get that gap to the door closed up a bit.

Thanks Mike

I do believe I can add a little bit of rod to the door side of the cowl but will need to take a little from the A pillar gap.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

It looks great, thinking your gaps are well within GM specs! I concur time to see what the hood will tell you?

Brett
Did GM have a spec? I guess 1/8"-1/2" is a spec lol.

I am trying to just make them the same. About 3/16" would be good.

I agree about the hood just need to get some help to get that hood intstalled.
It will tell everything I think.

How did yours fit when you test fit it? I am sure yours is a GM hood, mine is a aftermarket cowl induction hood. So I am sure I will have to do some work.

[First c10]

Last weekend I went ahead and bought that whole truck. 72 Cheyenne c20

I figured for what I paid for it I get the bed and will sell the rest of the parts to recoup my money. May even make a little bit.
In the pictures I have already removed most of the trim and damaged stuff.
Has a great driver door and fender. Passenger fender has a dent on the outer skin but the inside is in great shape. Inner door components all the AC stuff etc.

Has a great in cab gas tank that I'm going to put in Hulk Jr.

[87max]

I used straight ceiling grid wire (1/8) when I needed gaps filled, worked great.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by First c10

Brett
Did GM have a spec? I guess 1/8"-1/2" is a spec lol.

I am trying to just make them the same. About 3/16" would be good.

I agree about the hood just need to get some help to get that hood intstalled.
It will tell everything I think.

How did yours fit when you test fit it? I am sure yours is a GM hood, mine is a aftermarket cowl induction hood. So I am sure I will have to do some work.

Yep, busted 1/8”-1/2”! Seriously your panel fitment is looking great, a painter friend of mine told me once he liked using paint stirring sticks to set his gaps.

Good score on the whole truck purchase, that bed is going to look very cherry on this truck!

[First c10]

Thanks Brett I used the paint stick method. I was also told the same by my body guy.

The thing I am worried about is that I get the gaps where I want them and then the hood goes on and I have to move them out because the hood is 1/4" to long or far forward. I have seen a few people have hood issues from having nice and tight gaps but the hood wants fat and nasty!!!!
As soon as I get help I am going to get he hood bolting on and find out.

I got the whole truck for 400$. My plan is to get my money back with the rest of the truck. Suspension, axles, door, fender interior parts. Etc. I think I can get my 400 back fast.

Tha attached pictures are me massaging the metal for better gaps. I now have the front sheetmetal square. I think I have to work on the lower fender/rocker area it need a little bigger gap and add some filler to the cowl to the door area.
Again all is good if the hood fits right.

Oh one more thing. The cowl cover to the cowl. I have about 1/4" between them I know the seal will fill maybe 1/8". Is this normal?

[First c10]

More and more adjusting. It can't get anymore square. Moved the cowl induction hood next to the truck and opened the box. Man I need some help.

Hopefully I can get it on tomorrow.

[DWilbur]

That is way to nice of a hood for you. I think I should have it.

[7dee2]

Sahweet hood!

Thinking your cowl panel will pull down to your 1/8" guesstimate once you install the mounting screws. Curious if your original paint panel has these little pads, one on each side? I removed them when we sent ours out for blasting so I could reinstall them on final assembly.

[First c10]

Brett my sons yellow 70 has them but it's complete. The green 68 or the 2 extra cowls I have didn't have them. I do have them off the 72 I just got. But probably just going to get re pops.
Thanks for the picture. Question I have is... did they attached to the cowl or to the cab originally?

[First c10]

With a little help this afternoon I was able to get the hood installed.
Looks great, of course not with most its repop issues.

I will have to add a little metal to the driver side of the hood about 1/3 of the way from the nose back. But I wil keep tweaking it as it gets a little more uniform.

[First c10]

These are the first pictures I took of the initial install and adjustment.
Not bad but will continue to work on it.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by First c10

Brett my sons yellow 70 has them but it's complete. The green 68 or the 2 extra cowls I have didn't have them. I do have them off the 72 I just got. But probably just going to get re pops.
Thanks for the picture. Question I have is... did they attached to the cowl or to the cab originally?

Ours were stuck to the cowl, not really sure what they do maybe keep the panel from rattling against the a-pillars?

[First c10]

I was able to sell the steel floor bed on CL. I got my money out of it so that is good. I was able to work on the gaps a little more on the hood.
I disassembled the wood floor and fender well on the bed. It is about ready to be in pieces.
I am thinking of painting the wood the truck color with SS slats.
But will see as I get closer.
The bed rails will be powder coated

[First c10]

I also found this jewel on CL.
Not sure what they came out of but the guy said he paid over 1500$ to have them custom made.
Top is gray leather with gray vinyl sides. Not sure I will keep the color but a good deal none the less. I seen a factory buddy buckets at the Turlock swap meet for 2200$. These are nicer. Both sides are fully adjustable, center has lower compartment and fold down arm rest is also a compartment.

I think it was a good deal.

[First c10]

I will have to fabricate the mounting brackets to fit the stock holes. But I have room to raise the seat as the brackets on the seat is very low profile. So I have room to move forward or backward, up or down from the stock seat location.

[7dee2]

That's a tough call on the bed slats, the hand rubbed brazillion tikky is beautiful. Your factoryish paint em idea you could still use the truck some and not feel bad about it, tough call... Those seats look way comfy and the lighter gray against your dark blue would be very sharp!

[Nitis]

Seat looks like one of those custom order ones like from shop4seats.com

[First c10]

Hey Nitis Thanks for checking in... I do believe you are correct the seat that is closest is 1100$ WOW I got a great deal on them. I think I am going to call them and see if I can get the frame they have for 68$. Not worth my time to continue my R&D on the frame for the seats.

Bucket seat

[First c10]

Hey guys. Man I am all over the place and the shop shows.
I installed the new push on door seals from GMC Paul's (precision).
Nice product. Better then the old push ons.
Anyways.... of course the doors need to be moved out wider at the front. So after working on it I found that the window frame was too close to the front of the cab at the mitered frame area.
So after much debate I figured ok time to drill out spot welds and lower the rear frame down into the door. After moving it down 1/8" the door looks much better. Has anyone had to do this? I have not read of anyone doing it.

[First c10]

Here is the inside pictures

Time to move the welder into this shop and welder up!

Pictures soon after I get it welded and aligned.

[Nitis]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey Nitis Thanks for checking in... I do believe you are correct the seat that is closest is 1100$ WOW I got a great deal on them. I think I am going to call them and see if I can get the frame they have for 68$. Not worth my time to continue my R&D on the frame for the seats.

Bucket seat

no prob. I've been known to be a wealth of useless knowledge glad I was of some help!

I almost hit you up for that bed you sold with the door already mocked up but I am so far from that point I let it go

[First c10]

Nitis speaking of the bed and the gas door. I worked on the other bed....trying to add the gas door to the driver taillight. It's going to be interesting to say the least.

I picked up a gas door from a Buick car. Cut it up and test fit it in. I will be welding studs to the door hinge but for now it is just has stove bolts.

I will have to clearance the bottom of the taillight opening a little I think.

Keep you guys posted.

[First c10]

Ok so the hinge idea didn't work once I put the taillight housing on. So started over. After 6+ hours i think I got it.

[First c10]

Driver and passenger taillight housings. I am going LED's built by rob here on the forum.

I did trim the bottom of the driver housing. Now that I look at it I might not have needed to trim it. I may get another and try it untrimmed.
I may also just well studs to the bed and put nuts on the inside. Currently you can see the stove bolts under the taillight, maybe the trim would cover.
I will try the trim on and see if it covers the screw heads.

Now i need to weld up all the holes in the bed and put a dent or 2