Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm - Page 3 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

shifty · 03-01-2008, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Couch

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

are these junk?

Those are just the uppers, you'd need the lowers too.

I was told to avoid the DJM tubular arms them by three diff't people I generally tend to trust. I was thinking about buying them b/c a truck shop locally has them, and it was about $120 less (for both uppers and both lowers) than Air Ride's arms, and $150 less than all four CPP arms.

When it came down to it, I decided the additional coin was worth the name, quality, and reputation of the ART arms, so that's what I've decided to go with.

baggedcten · 03-01-2008, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raguemoe

They are Mercedes hinges (very strong-no side movement).

what model mercedes?????????

shifty · 03-01-2008, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Couch

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

are these junk?

PS - I mentioned these same DJM brand arms back on page 1: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...8&postcount=18

Couch · 03-01-2008, 11:11 AM

i can do just the uppers now though right. until i can afford the lowers.

shifty · 03-01-2008, 09:48 PM

I guess the thing to find out would be whether or not the DJM control arms do any correction, and find out what balljoints they take/use.

I've heard stories of aftermarket/custom tubular arms using non-standard/custom balljoints which make things a real pain in the ass, and heard of problems it has caused with spindles, etc.

jwcardy · 03-04-2008, 05:55 AM

if i dont stick with the stock, i will be going with the ART arms...
-wes

shifty · 03-08-2008, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlaird

Shifty, go to www.stylintrucks.com and sign up for their email newsletter. They frequently have 10-15% off specials and free shipping deals. I once had them down to $400 for the airride lowers

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE SUGGESTION! You friggin rock!

I haven't shopped with them since 2004 when they were "Stylin concepts". I had a really bad experience last time, so I came prepared with that and a 20% off coupon code (EXTRA20)

I couldn't get the coupon to work at the website, so I called them on the phone and talked to an operator, who sounded pretty hot btw

She said the code went right through for her. Cha-ching

$710 total (incl. tax + ship) for both uppers and lowers! Very cool! This saved me ~$200!!

(Part # for 73-78 arms is LUCA11802)

XXL · 03-08-2008, 04:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shifty

I called them on the phone and talked to an operator, who sounded pretty hot btw

They always do

SCOTI · 03-08-2008, 05:08 AM

Hhmmm . . .... Does anyone find it odd the he has a pic like that w/the screen name 'XXL'

. . . ....

*Shane* · 03-08-2008, 05:12 AM

I don't find it odd at all ...

jlaird · 03-08-2008, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shifty

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE SUGGESTION! You friggin rock!

I haven't shopped with them since 2004 when they were "Stylin concepts". I had a really bad experience last time, so I came prepared with that and a 20% off coupon code (EXTRA20)

I couldn't get the coupon to work at the website, so I called them on the phone and talked to an operator, who sounded pretty hot btw

She said the code went right through for her. Cha-ching

$710 total (incl. tax + ship) for both uppers and lowers! Very cool! This saved me ~$200!!

(Part # for 73-78 arms is LUCA11802)

I'm glad I could help. You gotta hellava deal!

Custom 68 · 03-08-2008, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shifty

Those are just the uppers, you'd need the lowers too.

I was told to avoid the DJM tubular arms them by three diff't people I generally tend to trust. I was thinking about buying them b/c a truck shop locally has them, and it was about $120 less (for both uppers and both lowers) than Air Ride's arms, and $150 less than all four CPP arms.

When it came down to it, I decided the additional coin was worth the name, quality, and reputation of the ART arms, so that's what I've decided to go with.

So you decided to get the DJM anyway?
I was thinking like said before to get the uppers only if I can get some "performance" from them. Min is not extreme as I have only dropped mine 2.5 inches with the spindles only. I may not see much if any improvement in handeling? For that price I guess you also got the ball joints? Let us know how they work out for you. I keep thinking on doing this...
Thanks
Dave

shifty · 03-08-2008, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Custom 68

So you decided to get the DJM anyway?

Hell no! I went with the AirRide StrongArms. With the 20% off coupon, the cost was $639. Shipping was around $67 + $4 insurance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Custom 68

I was thinking like said before to get the uppers only if I can get some "performance" from them.

You're not going to gain much (if any) performance from changing your control arms. They're just good for looks, and some brands/models are engineered to fix certain alignment problems in the case of extreme drops, but I don't know that DJM is one of those brands/models, and either way, you'd probably need to use both lowers and uppers to get that desired alignment fix.(someone is bound to argue with me on that, though).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Custom 68

For that price I guess you also got the ball joints? Let us know how they work out for you. I keep thinking on doing

Yes, they come with balljoints from what I understand, and new bushings, possibly cross-shafts as well. I don't know what other parts/brackets they come with, upper shock relocator/reinforcers....you'd need to ask some other guys around here about that.

Custom 68 · 03-08-2008, 10:25 PM

Thanks for the clarification, I did not see the strong arms listed on the website you linked to? Did you get them from stylintrucks? I will do some more digging...
Thanks again
Dave

shifty · 03-08-2008, 10:31 PM

Look four or five posts up. The part number is at the end of my post, and there is a link to www.stylintrucks.com in the quoted text from jlaird (in that same post)

NOTE: That is the part number for 73-87 arms! I am using '77 brake spindles, so I needed the 73-87 balljoints, which means I needed the 73-87 strongarms, which is what I ordered

Unless you're running 73-87 brake spindles, you may need to order something else

Custom 68 · 03-08-2008, 10:35 PM

ok I found them on the site.

shifty · 03-09-2008, 12:44 AM

The coupon wouldn't work for me at the website (free shipping would, but not the 20% off). I had to call to place the order.,

03-01-2008, 11:11 AM	#54
Couch Daily Driver Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: fresno,ca Posts: 228	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm i can do just the uppers now though right. until i can afford the lowers. __________________ nitrous...the equal opportunity destroyer.

03-01-2008, 09:48 PM	#55
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,373	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm I guess the thing to find out would be whether or not the DJM control arms do any correction, and find out what balljoints they take/use. I've heard stories of aftermarket/custom tubular arms using non-standard/custom balljoints which make things a real pain in the ass, and heard of problems it has caused with spindles, etc. __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

03-04-2008, 05:55 AM	#56
jwcardy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Omaha, Nebraska Posts: 116	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm if i dont stick with the stock, i will be going with the ART arms... -wes

03-08-2008, 05:08 AM	#59
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,080	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm Hhmmm . . .... Does anyone find it odd the he has a pic like that w/the screen name 'XXL' . . . .... __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

03-08-2008, 05:12 AM	#60
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm I don't find it odd at all ...

03-08-2008, 10:25 PM	#64
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,939	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm Thanks for the clarification, I did not see the strong arms listed on the website you linked to? Did you get them from stylintrucks? I will do some more digging... Thanks again Dave __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

03-08-2008, 10:31 PM	#65
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,373	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm Look four or five posts up. The part number is at the end of my post, and there is a link to www.stylintrucks.com in the quoted text from jlaird (in that same post) NOTE: That is the part number for 73-87 arms! I am using '77 brake spindles, so I needed the 73-87 balljoints, which means I needed the 73-87 strongarms, which is what I ordered Unless you're running 73-87 brake spindles, you may need to order something else __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 03-08-2008 at 10:31 PM.

03-08-2008, 10:35 PM	#66
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,939	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm ok I found them on the site. __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

03-09-2008, 12:44 AM	#67
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,373	Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm The coupon wouldn't work for me at the website (free shipping would, but not the 20% off). I had to call to place the order., __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.



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