LFD's Project Traizer 2WD closed cab.

[Angelse68cal]

All I have to say is that anything Kevin Touches Comes out to be a master piece I am Assuming the Kitchen included.LOL So All I have to say Kevin keep the pics coming I Love the projects you do and can spend numerous hours looking them over... Also how far is you place from San Bernardino Ca I would like to come up there and see some of the stuff you got going in person.

[kyle4381]

Kevin, Nice progress. keep up the good work.

[Rokcrln]

Well I am near Sacramento so ?

Here are a few pics of the finished kitchen. We also just finished putting in a 400amp service for the house and the shop and then put in a 4ton A/C and heat unit for the house.

Here is todays progress. We finally found an original set of 67 buckets and center consul for our 67 SS 396 chevelle. The car is a factory bench seat 4spd car but we wanted the buckets for it. It only has 30K original miles and is a blast to drive.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Got some more work done on the blazer todfay as well as some needed parts. I removed the dash in order to build the braces that will keep everything aligned when we pull the body off the frame to get it blasted. How it works is simple, I made attachment plates in 8 locations, 4 front and 4 rear. In front their are two were the dash bolts in using all three bolts and two more by the rear step up to the bed floor. These areas are bolting thru several layers of metal and will help hold things in place. The rear four are more to help my keep things perfectly square as I am replaceing bed sides and they bolt into the tail gate hinge and latch locations. Then I made turn buckle rods that will push or pull the body back into shape as needed. But the first step is to shim the body to get things lined up how you want them then you will tighten up the rods to hold it in place once you like how it all lines up. Then pull the body off and bag each shim pack and body mount seperetly so it will go back in the corredt spot.

Since the mounting plates and rods will be left on for soda blasting and wil not be removed untill the body is back on its frame I went ahead and cleaned and preped all mounting areas before bolting up the plates. I also removed the dash since I needed the mounting holes for my turn buckles and rods. Also we are putting in a very clean A/C dash after the body is all preped. I could have bolted my rods into the hinge mounts but then I could not test fit the doors with out removing everything and that defeats the hole reason for having them. The way I did it you can mount up doors, rockers, floor patches and almost any thing else you need to do while keeping the body right were you want it. I will be adding more braces before the body comes off but for now here is what I have done.

Kevin
LFD inc.

[Rokcrln]

And yes all the rods do have left and right hand threads so it is very easy and fast to adjust things as needed. Then I welded a large nut over the rod to make it easier to adjust then using a pipe wrench or chanel locks.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[LUV2XCLR8]

[hgs_notes]

Well, at least your finally out doing something! Slacker.

Looks, good. I think I'll make a set of braces like that so the windshield doesn't hit me in the face when I finally try driving my junkyard Jimmy.

[red71cheyenne]

Kevin, I like the rods and turnbuckles, look like they will work perfect to adjust the cab. How do you shim it all back in place where you want it to stay though? I have that problem with the passenger side on mine. The passenger side is way out of line with the driver's side. I'd like to match them up, but don't understand how I would shim it. Do you use just the cab mounts to do it? Or are you shimming somewhere else as well? Thanks, and keep the pics coming! Jeff.

[Rokcrln]

Well if you have no rust than you will need to put in new body mounts and shim it with body washers between the mount and body. If you have rust than you need to do the same as above and once the body is close then the rods will help fine tune it in place and hold it so you can do all the rust repair with out the body moving around. Once it is all welded back up then release the rods and shim for final tolerance. Simple right

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[red71cheyenne]

Nah, I'm already at the repaired stage and reassembled, I just can't get the body to line up. The passenger side firewall is sitting farther forward than the driver's side and I'm trying to figure out how to pull it back and then shim. I think the rods will work for pulling, then do I just shim the body mounts? Or is there somewhere else I would need to shim? In front of the firewall where the floor supports are? Thanks, Jeff.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by red71cheyenne

Nah, I'm already at the repaired stage and reassembled, I just can't get the body to line up. The passenger side firewall is sitting farther forward than the driver's side and I'm trying to figure out how to pull it back and then shim. I think the rods will work for pulling, then do I just shim the body mounts? Or is there somewhere else I would need to shim? In front of the firewall where the floor supports are? Thanks, Jeff.

If you are already repaired then you have one of two things going on.
1) When it was repaired it was not in th eright place and now it is "fixed" out of line and it may not shim out.
2) It was repaired right and just needs to be shimmed. If your passenger side needs to come back then you will want to add shims to the body mount under the pass door hinge area and remove any from the next body mount back from their. This will cause the body to flex down in the middle and "bow" the fire wall back. The rods I made will not help because their are designed to move and hold things in place before repairs are done.

Hope this helps.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[raggedjim]

Jeez, Kevin's temporary braces look better than my permanent repairs!

Rg

[red71cheyenne]

Thanks Kevin! I'll try that and see if I can get it all in line. Jeff.

[Rokcrln]

Well I am working out of town right now so that only leaves Saturday for blazer play, I mean work I hung the doors and they were way off untill I started turning the brace nut and they lined up real fast. I also hung some front fenders for mock up just to double check things and I like what I see. I am going to pick up the truck cab tonight for the donner roof and some other misc metal. It is a shame to cut up this cab because it is one of the cleanest ones I have seen. And no don't even ask because it is getting cut up, I belive if you are building a nice vehical you want to start with the best parts you can find. We are also now going to replace the drivers bed side with a new SWB side because it will save time and turn out with less filler. Also their are no door latches installed right so what you see is what you get for fitment. We all know how much a blazer door will more for the latch to line up when shut hard enough!
More to come later!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

So the next step once the cab is here is to cut, chop and mock it all up. Once I am happy with all the fitment I will tack it all in place then cut al the rusted sheet metal off and send it out for blasting and epoxy coating. Then it will come back for new metal and minor body work.

Kevin
LFD inc.

[Rokcrln]

Well here is the donner parts cab. Like I said it is a shame to cut it up but like I said start with the bests!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Had a few hours to kill today and thought I would get started on the cab roof chop. I first made a templet of the inside of the blazer tub were the cab back panel will weld in. Then I took that and transfered it to the back of the cab. Then I braced off the blazer windshield so it would not move once I cut the top off. I also added two locators to the blazer brace to help make sure the top lines up perfect. I then added a brace to teh truck cab window opening as well and started cutting after measuring several times. The back of the truck cab is cut off right at the floor line but I will section in the bottom of the cab later so all the panels will look complete and not cut off like they do now.

Kevin
LFD inc.

[Rokcrln]

I ended up cutting part of the truck cab's "B" pillar that I will graft into teh blazer tub for two reasons. First it will make the joining of these two parts alot stronger that if you made all your conections in the same plain. Second the passenger side of the blazer has some damage to the "B" post so this will solve the problem of fixing that area. The drivers side I cut out just below the strike plate and the passenger side was cut at the lower body line.

Well I am working out of town during the week so I will not have any more up dates untill next weekend.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[sick69]

I think this, like everything else Kevin does, is gonna turn out pretty damn clean! I look forward to watching this build progress.



Frank

[smbrouss70]

Kevin, the bracing in the windshield opening is such simple idea, even I can do it! Now I know that when I replace the windshield frame on my blazer that it will be in the right spot!

[Yukon Jack]

Pretty amazing.

[deer slayer]

your crazy too i just did the same thing but it wasnt going on a blazer tub

[Frizzle Fry]

I like how you cut the rear corners of the cab so the Blazer bed-sides will "plug right in." You plan things out well

[Frizzle Fry]

BTW, saw another Trazer at a local cruise in. Thought you'ed like to see it:

[jaros44sr]

Sorta looks like an El Camino, only a truck. You guys have better vision than I, guess I just have to wait awhile and pay attention...

Nice work, Kevin!!! Youz guys never cease to amaze me. J.