'67 project nightmare ls1 swap

[azsmokey]

Awesome headers! I am sure they will work great for the 6.0L K-10 I am building! When can I get a set?

[c-mack]

hi, welcome to the boards from crockett, texas

[shifty]

Hey Jaime, if you end up selling any of these to someone with an ECE GenIII motor mount setup like Rob and I use and they fit really well, please let me know

This is of obvious interest to me.

[Jamie @ Doug Thorley]

Originally Posted by shifty

Hey Jaime, if you end up selling any of these to someone with an ECE GenIII motor mount setup like Rob and I use and they fit really well, please let me know

This is of obvious interest to me.

I will be sending Rob a set within the next few days and he has agreed to try them out and document everything for us .

[Hart_Rod]

SSSSSWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTT! I'll be home Thursday night.

[jb4short]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

SSSSSWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTT! I'll be home Thursday night.

Rob- I'll test fit that extra '67 you have sitting down there in my garage and write a review for you....LOL

[MN Rooky]

Welcome to the board!! from Minnesota

[pcmcobra]

Rob,
Are you headed back to FLA?
Let me know, I would like to see how they fit on your truck.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by pcmcobra

Rob,
Are you headed back to FLA?
Let me know, I would like to see how they fit on your truck.

Thursday night!

[gringoloco]

Watching this...

[DREAMS OF A 67]

Welcome From Knoxville Tn!!!

[Rat72]

Jamie-
Can you tell if these might fit with a boxed in frame? My S&Ps get into the frame rail.

Thanks,
Whit

[hessian18]

Right on welcome to the board from the desert of Hesperia !!

Me and my boss Ray use your headers on our long travel cars...

Cool to see you have interest in the chevy trucks !!!!!





^^^^^^^

Desert Rat Buggies built...


So would this header design work on a 81 with 5.3l vortec ??

I have a 81 brick that i want to do a swap in...and since we are a distributor for your products, I was thinking of getting a set...

[tcb-1]

Welcome aboard from Shawnee, KS!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Jamie @ Doug Thorley

I will be sending Rob a set within the next few days and he has agreed to try them out and document everything for us .

Jamie the headers arrived, . Unfortunately, I'm back in NM now and won't be home until March 20th to do a test fit, . Updates to follow...........

[mfishburn]

Welcome from South Carolina. Sweeeet truck!!!

[Jamie @ Doug Thorley]

Originally Posted by Rat72

Jamie-
Can you tell if these might fit with a boxed in frame? My S&Ps get into the frame rail.

Thanks,
Whit

I think they will Whit. No part of the header protrudes into the frame rail. pm me your email addy and I will send some pics to you.

Originally Posted by hessian18

Right on welcome to the board from the desert of Hesperia !!

Me and my boss Ray use your headers on our long travel cars...

Cool to see you have interest in the chevy trucks !!!!!





^^^^^^^

Desert Rat Buggies built...


So would this header design work on a 81 with 5.3l vortec ??

I have a 81 brick that i want to do a swap in...and since we are a distributor for your products, I was thinking of getting a set...

Thanks!! and damn nice work on the rail there. I think they will fit your generation but I haven't checked them out for myself yet. We shall see.

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Jamie the headers arrived, . Unfortunately, I'm back in NM now and won't be home until March 20th to do a test fit, . Updates to follow...........

Cool, I glad your got 'em. Keep me posted.



Thanks for all the welcomes, ya'll
Jamie

[Rat72]

Jamie-
I've purchase quite a few headers recently and am amazed at how they show up and curious why companies make the decisions they do. Maybe you can help me understand. I just bought some S&P headers for my 72 K10 and was surprised at a couple of things. They are using 5/16 flanges and thin wall tubing. Is it weight or cost that sends them in this direction? Also, on the inside of one of the tubes there is an insert which looks to be used to join two pieces of tubing together. This seems very wrong to me, can you comment? They grind the weld on the ports smooth which looks killer and should be good for flow but then they leave a chunk of metal in the middle of the pipe? I'm thinking the S&Ps are more about looks than function.

I have Sanderson Headers on my Jeep and they went with thick tubing and flanges but they have a goofy weld around all the ports and you are supposed to use sealant rather than a gasket. Maybe I'm old fashioned but this seems like a leak waiting to happen. Any comments?

Had some cheap Hedman's. Nothing good there. And at the bottom of my list was a set of Flowtech. I got what I paid for on those beasts.

BTW, I used Thorley's on my Grand Cherokee and was very happy. Very solid, good welds and fit well.

Thanks,
Whit

[Jamie @ Doug Thorley]

Originally Posted by Rat72

Jamie-
I've purchase quite a few headers recently and am amazed at how they show up and curious why companies make the decisions they do. Maybe you can help me understand. I just bought some S&P headers for my 72 K10 and was surprised at a couple of things. They are using 5/16 flanges and thin wall tubing. Is it weight or cost that sends them in this direction? Also, on the inside of one of the tubes there is an insert which looks to be used to join two pieces of tubing together. This seems very wrong to me, can you comment? They grind the weld on the ports smooth which looks killer and should be good for flow but then they leave a chunk of metal in the middle of the pipe? I'm thinking the S&Ps are more about looks than function.

Generally companies use 5/16" flanges and thin wall tubing to save money. There are some cases when a company will use lighter components for all out racing applications where the durabilty of an everyday driver is not an issue. I believe the sleeve you see is for alignment and allows the welder to have a free hand while welding the two tubes together. The sleeve itself is made of the same steel used to make welding rod. IMHO, it does cause an obstruction

I have Sanderson Headers on my Jeep and they went with thick tubing and flanges but they have a goofy weld around all the ports and you are supposed to use sealant rather than a gasket. Maybe I'm old fashioned but this seems like a leak waiting to happen. Any comments?

Ya, I have seen that. Personally, I don't like to use sealer on anything. It just makes a damn mess. This is sanderson's way of keeping the cost down. I would use a gasket regardless of this "innovation".

Had some cheap Hedman's. Nothing good there. And at the bottom of my list was a set of Flowtech. I got what I paid for on those beasts.

Everybody has there place in this market. I pound my head into the wall sometimes when people mention $160 headers but the fact is, and you said it best, "you get what you pay for". It's tough these days to make quality parts with good materials and keep it in the U.S.. We are just not willing to give in to cheap labor and manufacturing practices that are out of our direct control.

BTW, I used Thorley's on my Grand Cherokee and was very happy. Very solid, good welds and fit well.

Thanks,
Whit

Thanks Whit!!

[Rat72]

I didn't see any sleeves on your headers, how do you avoid using them? Or are they just hidden around bends? How common is that practice?

Whit

Originally Posted by Jamie @ Doug Thorley

I believe the sleeve you see is for alignment and allows the welder to have a free hand while welding the two tubes together. The sleeve itself is made of the same steel used to make welding rod. IMHO, it does cause an obstruction

[Jamie @ Doug Thorley]

Originally Posted by Rat72

I didn't see any sleeves on your headers, how do you avoid using them? Or are they just hidden around bends? How common is that practice?

Whit

We choose not to use them. We make special fixtures that hold the pipe in place and that is only when we are required to weld pipe together that is otherwise unbendable. Is this sleeve located on a "bend on a bend"?

Not common at all. These are normally used by a fabricator that is making a one off. It's supposed to make it easier to center the two pieces of pipe. Is it tig welded? This is picture of the sleeve that brand-x uses...

[Rat72]

The strange thing is that the coupler is right in the middle of a straight piece of tubing. There are bends on each end of the tube but I'm not sure why this isn't a single piece. The tube in question is the longest of the 4, not sure why it is any different then the other tubes. I assume it is tig welded but you can't tell because the welds are all ground smooth. The cool flanges and the way they ground the ports was the reason I bought these units. It's a real nice looking header but there is an ugly secret inside. Why grind the inlets to perfection and then leave a honking piece of metel inside? You should be able to see the sleeve in the following pics.

[Jamie @ Doug Thorley]

Originally Posted by Rat72

The strange thing is that the coupler is right in the middle of a straight piece of tubing. There are bends on each end of the tube but I'm not sure why this isn't a single piece. The tube in question is the longest of the 4, not sure why it is any different then the other tubes. I assume it is tig welded but you can't tell because the welds are all ground smooth. The cool flanges and the way they ground the ports was the reason I bought these units. It's a real nice looking header but there is an ugly secret inside. Why grind the inlets to perfection and then leave a honking piece of metel inside? You should be able to see the sleeve in the following pics.

It looks like they took a slightly small diameter tube and used it for alignment purposes. I can't imagine why they would do this though . Do all the other tubes have ground welds on them? It looks to me like these are made from j-bends and not 1 piece bends. Eiether way, it's not really necessary to use a piece of tube on the inside.

[Rat72]

That's exactly what it looks like. Only the longest tube on each header is done this way. Looks like they started with a J-bend and mandrel bent the other end on the rest. I'm guessing the straight part on the J-bend was not long enough to make the long tube in one piece. I understand cutting some time by purchasing J-bends for the places you can use them. But if you are set up with a mandrel bender wouldn't it be easier to make a double bend on a straight piece rather than slop two pieces together? They did grind the weld smooth on the outside so it looks pretty. AKA, whip cream on sh__


Thanks,
Whit

Originally Posted by Jamie @ Doug Thorley

It looks like they took a slightly small diameter tube and used it for alignment purposes. I can't imagine why they would do this though . Do all the other tubes have ground welds on them? It looks to me like these are made from j-bends and not 1 piece bends. Eiether way, it's not really necessary to use a piece of tube on the inside.

[RIDGEGUNNR]

Welcome Jamie. Im Also A New Member. Im Doing My Build Right Now On A 72c10,5.3,4l60.im Using The Same Engine/trans Mount Set Up From Cpp. I Wish I Would Have Known That There Are No Headers Out Right Now That Will Work With There Set Up.they Forgot About That I Guess. So I Sure Am Glad I Found Your Set. I Will Be Contacting You Very Soon To Get A Set. Thanks. Kevin