Starting to start starting a C4 conversion on my 84 SWB GMC

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Tagg33

...it is red. I'm definitely keeping the truck red and possible 2-tone.

That's what I would do. Save what you can and add a fresh look with a two -tone covering the graphics.

In my mind stock style wheels, replica wheels etc, look better on a stock styled truck. Since your truck is going to be a custom, add some custom wheels to set it off.

Its hard to beat a clean 5 spoke design....

[smashingchuck]

I think that as wild as the chassis is going to be, keeping the rest of the truck as clean and as basic as possible is def. the way to go.

[Tagg33]

I might paint the bottom of the truck black to cover the graphics but I can't make up my mind. Luckily I have a lot of time before that decision has to be made. I have been collecting pics of paint scemes that I like. The first pic seems like a very updated version of what I have, love this truck. I definitely want a red engine compartment. Middle pics show black on the bottom. Problem is, I like the black on the top a little better. Last pic is a dark metallic grey over red. What do you all think of mixing solid red with a metallic for a 2-tone?

[Tagg33]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

I think that as wild as the chassis is going to be, keeping the rest of the truck as clean and as basic as possible is def. the way to go.

I agree, a nice polished aluminum rim will compliment all the aluminum Corvette suspension parts. Due to laziness I was leaning toward chrome but I think polished is the way to go. And now with all the Power Ball polishing products it has to be easier than it used to be, right?

[smashingchuck]

As a general rule in color schemes, it's *best* when doing a two tone involving black (or any other DARK color) to put the darker color on top. Reason being is that you are trying to emphasize the fact that the truck is on the ground (or very close) and when the darker color is on the bottom, it makes the truck "blend in" to the ground. The oppisite is true when you use a bright, lighter color on the bottom, it draws your eye to the relationship between your rockers and the ground.

[Tagg33]

That's soo true, I just scrolled up to look at the pics again and the bright color on the bottom really emphasizes how low they are.

[wildmanaaron]

Originally Posted by Tagg33

While I had the driver side opened up I had great access to weld in the throttle pedal bolts and I came up with a way to re-use the fuse block mount that used to be in the firewall. Now it is welded to the kick panel.

So how are you going to run the wiring now thru the firewall. I hate that ugly bulkhead on these trucks. I want to get rid of mine too but I cant decide how to do it. I hate wires showing. I have to figure out how to hide the wires for my LS-1 engine too.

[Tagg33]

There's one hole left in the middle of the firewall at the bottom, just behind the distributor. This is were my EFI harness enters the cab and I might extend the wires from the fuse block and run them thru this same grommet. My other option is to drill a new hole in the trans tunnel and use one of the water tight grommets I have for my 0 gauge power cable.

(This StreetWires firewall bushing seal installs in the cut-out drilled through your vehicle's firewall for your 1/0-gauge power cable. The bushing provides a watertight seal, guards against corrosion, and protects your wiring from chafing against the cut-out. The bushing locks securely as it is tightened.)

[Tagg33]

Woohoo, I just sold the prostreet rear susp and 15" wheels that came with the truck. That's going to help me get moving again and give me something to do while waiting for my brother to come and get me started on the firewall body work and paint.

The update on my Corvette IRS is I've decided to cut my batwing down to just a diff cover. I will then create a narrower batwing style mount out of the same diameter round tube I plan to use on the four-link, etc. Here's a picture of the stock batwing and then one of the center section with the "wings" cut off. I'm attempting to keep my notch as is but it might need to be changed to work with this corvette stuff. I know the exhuast pipes will need to move.

[smashingchuck]

Now you've gone and done it!! I would at least think your current notch is big enough, but I'm sure there is a lot of "unforseens" right now.

[Tagg33]

The rear toe bar is my concern. If you can see it in this pic it sits several inches back from the axle center line.

[smashingchuck]

Couldn't you just put a dog leg in it or would that affect perfromance?

[Tagg33]

That might work or even a little notch like the dropmember comes with for the rack and pinion. I'll see what's needed soon.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by Tagg33

That might work or even a little notch like the dropmember comes with for the rack and pinion. I'll see what's needed soon.

Do the 'bags mount to that or???

[Tagg33]

My air bags are going to be in front of the axle shafts, mounted above the 4 link setup. Nate showed me a really good setup that he can build for me. It was kind a modified version of this picture.

[smashingchuck]

OIC. Why the dog bone?

[Tagg33]

The dog bone in the picture is not in the right place for my need. A dog bone about that size would be used as the upper link bar and would mount at ~45 degrees down to the bottom link bar. Giving me a ladder bar type setup. I'm not sure I described that very well but I hope to make the real thing soon and I'll show you pics.

[Tagg33]

I'm "still" just about to send my dropmember to the powdercoater but now I'm unsure about my color choice. As you have seen my frame is silver but I don't know the exact color. I was afraid the silver powdercoat options would be close but not exact so I was just going to get these parts done in a darker metalic gray like gunmetal-ish. What do think of the idea to have all these bolt on parts gunmetal with a silver frame and raw aluminum corvette parts. Does that sound like 1 too many colors? I could skip the powdercoating all together and paint these parts and touchup my frame with all with the same silver.

This example pic is all I could find that kind of shows three colors. What do you all think?

[smashingchuck]

I think two colors is enough. Also remember all this stuff is suspension that nobody is going to notice the hue being different. I painted lots of stuff on my chassis "cast coat aluminum", even the aluminum parts I painted so they wouldn't get that nasty oxidation on them. Bare, freshly bead blasted aluminum looks nice at first, but after a while it starts to oxidize. Just some food for thought.

[Tagg33]

I was planning to clear coat the blasted aluminum parts but would you still opt to paint them?

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by Tagg33

I was planning to clear coat the blasted aluminum parts but would you still opt to paint them?

I've heard the clear coat will turn yellow but haven't seen any proof of that myself.

[aggie91]

I have seen some clears turn yellow on aluminum parts. Use a "crystal clear" clear for those parts. The other option is to have the vette parts powder coated the same color as the drop member parts and keep the frame silver.

or

What about painting the frame a different color since you plan to repaint the outside too?

Anyway, your work/progress is looking good.

[Tagg33]

I just scored a set of Corvette Sawblade wheels with good tires for $300. I can't afford 22's yet so these will work while I'm getting the suspension setup and painted. I photo choped a pic, I guess it's going to look like this for awhile. I'm a sucker for this twisted/turbine/sawblade looking wheel. Every wheel catalog I look at my eye always goes to this style. Well it's not my dream wheel but it was a good buy.

[ccreddell]

You can also put a clear powdercoating on your suspension parts.

[Tagg33]

Originally Posted by ccreddell

You can also put a clear powdercoating on your suspension parts.

And the powdercoater blasts all the parts for me too, that sure would make it easier. I went to a paint store today and got a price for a gallon of clear they recommend for raw metal applications. It was $135 total with hardner. Spraying clear would be cheaper than powder but more work for me. I'll have to think it over some more.