Let See Seats On Your 55-59 Truck

[_Ogre]

these are out of an 07 ford fusion, did not like them sticking up in the back window.
i cut the backs down 6'' and removed the headrest, a friend recovered them in ultra suede



nice truck/interior Entourageguy

[NEWFISHER]

I have read ( on a few forums) questions asked about " what to use when rebuilding a seat" This is just to document what I did to the frame/spings and build up with a cover pre cut and sewn ready to install.

I stripped mine down to the frame/springs, repaired any springs or bars that were damaged. I pulled/stretched all of the springs that had seen abuse over 60 years making sure that all of them looked even and square within thier individual area. I painted both halves of the seat-frame-springs then covered the bottom and back assemblies with burlap that I hog ringed to the spring retainer bars so it wouldnt slide around. I layed cotton batting over the burlap on the back portion and fit the cover. Anything thicker than the cotton will push you forward ( great for shorter people) I Stretched the cover around and hog ringed it down-forget about those factory clips, they tear the vinyl and are a p.i.a. rings work great. After the burlap secured to the lower section, I cut out a 2 inch slab of medium density foam and lightly glued it to the burlap with spray adhesive. Tossed the cover on, pulled the edges, hog ringed it on. I started in the middle of the seat and worked my way to the outsides both front and back of each seat halve together, pulled and ringed the sides last. Installed the base, slid it forward and installed the back. Slid it back and went for a ride....no bouncing, looks great ( some areas will relax a bit in the sun etc).

[meter swinger]

Looks awesome. Nice work
Posted via Mobile Device

[ruby57]

Originally Posted by Raymo

I'm tired of sit'n on my weak spring pickup seat. Looking for newer seat choices. I guess I could rebuild it as the seat is in really good shape but can't find seat springs. The gentleman that had my 56 before I did was a little bigger than me so she's a little weak and a back killer after a 600 mile trip.
Lets see some of your seats with what they came out of.
Thanks,
Raymo

I don't know, Raymo, I've not taken mine on a 600 mile trip so can't say Ruby's bench seat is much better. -Doug

[OrrieG]

Here's mine 07 Yukon third row with shoulder belts built into the seat.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

...This is just to document what I did to...a cover pre cut and sewn ready to install.

That looks SO good espcially consdering its on a stock seat. Who is the supplier of that presewn kit?

If it's as simple as you wrote I'll definitely being trying it if the price is reasonable. One quick question: the "cotton batting" you speak of; where'd you get it and how thick is it?

P.S. Is that a piece of matching vinyl, or paint on the door panel?

[NEWFISHER]

http://www.ricksupholstery.com/CompletedTrucks.html
I also had them sew up a matching headliner and was $250 shipped for all 3 pieces. The door insert is hammerite spray bomb in a dark metallic gray not vinyl. The cotton batting is a really light and fluffy material that came on a roll from a local fabric/uphoulstery shop supplier. Its only about 1/2 mabey 3/4 but you can grab and pull it off the roll and make snowballs with it by wadding it up.

It really is simple but I had the same reservations too. Pm me and I can walk you through it or call you and explain it better than I type
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wow. Thanks for the link. At the price you quote in definitely gonna try them. I expected little in the way of choice but I'm impressed with what they offer.
Posted via Mobile Device

[mknittle]

[QUOTE=NEWFISHER;5700824]I have read ( on a few forums) questions asked about " what to use when rebuilding a seat" This is just to document what I did to the frame/spings and build up with a cover pre cut and sewn ready to install.

I stripped mine down to the frame/springs, repaired any springs or bars that were damaged. I pulled/stretched all of the springs that had seen abuse over 60 years making sure that all of them looked even and square within thier individual area. I painted both halves of the seat-frame-springs then covered the bottom and back assemblies with burlap that I hog ringed to the spring retainer bars so it wouldnt slide around. I layed cotton batting over the burlap on the back portion and fit the cover. Anything thicker than the cotton will push you forward ( great for shorter people) I Stretched the cover around and hog ringed it down-forget about those factory clips, they tear the vinyl and are a p.i.a. rings work great. After the burlap secured to the lower section, I cut out a 2 inch slab of medium density foam and lightly glued it to the burlap with spray adhesive. Tossed the cover on, pulled the edges, hog ringed it on. I started in the middle of the seat and worked my way to the outsides both front and back of each seat halve together, pulled and ringed the sides last. Installed the base, slid it forward and installed the back. Slid it back and went for a ride....no bouncing, looks great ( some areas will relax a bit in the sun etc).
]


may I add that you can make a plywood frame about 2 inches wide all the way around that screws into the bottom of the seat frame. this elimanates the hog rings witch are hard to get an even pull with.
With the wood strip you can staple the cover and get a nice even pull.

[NEWFISHER]

[/QUOTE]
may I add that you can make a plywood frame about 2 inches wide all the way around that screws into the bottom of the seat frame. this elimanates the hog rings witch are hard to get an even pull with.
With the wood strip you can staple the cover and get a nice even pull.[/QUOTE]

If your stapler is powerfull enough, it will shoot them directly into the lower seat pan also

[Dan in Pasadena]

The staples won't just pull through and tear the vinyl/fabric? Interesting idea. I'm thinking the plywood would have to be at least 1/2-5-8" thick? Fairly close spacing on the bolts holding it to the seat frame(?)
Posted via Mobile Device

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

The staples won't just pull through and tear the vinyl/fabric? Interesting idea. I'm thinking the plywood would have to be at least 1/2-5-8" thick? Fairly close spacing on the bolts holding it to the seat frame(?)
Posted via Mobile Device

The thin plywood is a great DIY. Shooting them directly into the pan requires a " webbing" or 1" seat belt type material to be sewn around the lower curtain and the staples secure through it. I had to do this on another truck when I couldnt get hog rings around any wires when the curtain/cover was too short to reach an area that would accept hog rings.
..
..
Pic stolen from another site, but shows the plywood technique

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

The staples won't just pull through and tear the vinyl/fabric? Interesting idea. I'm thinking the plywood would have to be at least 1/2-5-8" thick? Fairly close spacing on the bolts holding it to the seat frame(?)
Posted via Mobile Device

no hog rings will tear before staples will. I use staples on motorcycle and smowmoble seats. that is how most origanally were done. If you don't trust a stress point adda little 3w weather strip adhesive{good contactact cement}

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

The thin plywood is a great DIY. Shooting them directly into the pan requires a " webbing" or 1" seat belt type material to be sewn around the lower curtain and the staples secure through it. I had to do this on another truck when I couldnt get hog rings around any wires when the curtain/cover was too short to reach an area that would accept hog rings.
..
..
Pic stolen from another site, but shows the plywood technique

Yes that is exactaly what I ment.I think that belongs to Coralhead. It makes it so much cleaner lan stronger

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

I have read ( on a few forums) questions asked about " what to use when rebuilding a seat" This is just to document what I did to the frame/spings and build up with a cover pre cut and sewn ready to install.

I stripped mine down to the frame/springs, repaired any springs or bars that were damaged. I pulled/stretched all of the springs that had seen abuse over 60 years making sure that all of them looked even and square within thier individual area. I painted both halves of the seat-frame-springs then covered the bottom and back assemblies with burlap that I hog ringed to the spring retainer bars so it wouldnt slide around. I layed cotton batting over the burlap on the back portion and fit the cover. Anything thicker than the cotton will push you forward ( great for shorter people) I Stretched the cover around and hog ringed it down-forget about those factory clips, they tear the vinyl and are a p.i.a. rings work great. After the burlap secured to the lower section, I cut out a 2 inch slab of medium density foam and lightly glued it to the burlap with spray adhesive. Tossed the cover on, pulled the edges, hog ringed it on. I started in the middle of the seat and worked my way to the outsides both front and back of each seat halve together, pulled and ringed the sides last. Installed the base, slid it forward and installed the back. Slid it back and went for a ride....no bouncing, looks great ( some areas will relax a bit in the sun etc).

I bet by the end of next summer the cover will even out really nice. not that it dosent look really nice now it does.

[NEWFISHER]

And the matching headliner installed at lunch, just need to trim the edge tonight.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

And the matching headliner installed at lunch, just need to trim the edge tonight.

looks great! sure makes a big difference.

[starterman99]

heres a late 80's seat in my 57

[NEWFISHER]

^^^comfy

[Choady]

heres a photo of my factory seat and $20 worth of serape blankets.

[Dan in Pasadena]

So the plywood is one piece? NOT four separate pieces, right?

Newfisher: I probably asked you this already but you just sprayed your door panel trim with metallic silver paint, right? That's what I did on my two tone door panels but I was just wondering. Pic of my door panel below.

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

The thin plywood is a great DIY. Shooting them directly into the pan requires a " webbing" or 1" seat belt type material to be sewn around the lower curtain and the staples secure through it. I had to do this on another truck when I couldnt get hog rings around any wires when the curtain/cover was too short to reach an area that would accept hog rings.
..
..
Pic stolen from another site, but shows the plywood technique

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Choady

heres a photo of my factory seat and $20 worth of serape blankets.
Attachment 1047527

In keeping with the Mexican blanket theme of your picture, I'll post this one. NOT mine, and I don't know if I'd do it, but I admit to REALLY liking it!

[NEWFISHER]

Choady....I'm a fan of the sticker

Dan.....4 seperate pieces of wood, easier to deal with. I've seen them screwd down and also through bolted then staple the seat material to the board. Hog ringing works just fine though. Throw away the c clips that the factory held the material with as they do more damage cutting the vinyl when installing them.

Yes, I'm a copy cat. I stole your metallic chrome bumper spray bomb technique. Pm me your paypal addy and I will tithe you the royalty
Posted via Mobile Device

[butchp]

Originally Posted by starterman99

heres a late 80's seat in my 57

Can you get me the paint code of that blue it just right.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

... Pm me your paypal addy and I will tithe you the royalty
Posted via Mobile Device

Oh, no charge. You couldn't afford it anyway - I think my ideas are priceless!