72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal - Page 3 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

PD1292 · 08-16-2011, 10:28 PM

I am currently attempting to finish welding on the fender but it is taking a long time to see results so i took a break from that and worked on the inner fender well on the driver side. It had rust spots on the front in two places. I cut them out and the replaced them with another piece. Here are some pictures.

thor · 08-17-2011, 12:25 PM

it's looking good sir!

PD1292 · 08-30-2011, 11:10 PM

Thank you Thor.... Updates on the project. I got the patch panel over the wheel well done, and then found out I did not set up the metal very well before I welded. Turns out it had a large dip where the welds went. I tried to attach a stud (stud welder) to the side in an attempt to pull it out but I could not get it to stay in the shape I wanted. Frustrated, I decided to pull the whole back outer fender off.. I was worried about it while drilling out all of the many spot welds and peeling back the metal, but after the panel came off I felt better about it. I am now able to get a hammer to the back and have beat the damaged part back out to almost strait. (well strait enough for bondo work).

PD1292 · 08-30-2011, 11:17 PM

I have another question now, There is a mount on the inside of the rear bedside that attaches to the removable top, it is threaded into a nut that just spins in the bedside and does not allow the bolt to come out. Is this the way it should be or should i be able to take that bolt out. I have tried to attach some vice grips to it but it wont turn out.
thanks Barry.

PD1292 · 08-30-2011, 11:32 PM

The bedside was also missing the sliding nut for the single wall top. Lucky for me the frame that holds the nut was still there, and I only had to make the piece that is pictured. I made it out of a thinner piece of metal at first and then had to remake it after finding there was not enough thread to hold it tight. Second picture is the frame work under the bedside that holds the sliding nut.

drunkbus · 08-31-2011, 12:05 PM

I would just put a few tack welds on that nut that is spinning for the top mount to hold it in place. That bolt is supposed to come out.

thor · 08-31-2011, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PD1292

I have another question now, There is a mount on the inside of the rear bedside that attaches to the removable top, it is threaded into a nut that just spins in the bedside and does not allow the bolt to come out. Is this the way it should be or should i be able to take that bolt out. I have tried to attach some vice grips to it but it wont turn out.
thanks Barry.

I've always left that metal piece attached to my hardtop when I've taken it off. I agree with Drunkbus - weld the nut and remove the bolt.

PD1292 · 09-04-2011, 11:52 PM

Well I could not get the bolts to come out so i had to cut them off and pull out the, i guess it was some kind of rivet nut. it left large holes where the nut was supposed to be. Ill try to weld either a nut or a thick piece of flat stock and tap it.

PD1292 · 09-05-2011, 12:05 AM

I had a large dent/rip on the back side of the passenger side. I tried to patch up the hole but the metal was so thin I kept blowing through it with the welder, so I decided to attempt a metal patch. Here are the results.

PD1292 · 09-05-2011, 11:21 PM

Sand blasted the inner back fender panel and got it painted.

VA72C10 · 09-06-2011, 12:33 AM

Nice work! Coming along nicely!!!

PD1292 · 09-26-2011, 10:02 AM

I put the outer fender back on and after some filler work I have it pretty strait. I sprayed on some etch primer last night and will follow up with some high build primer (?) to finish it off. It seemed pretty strait but i think it still has some slight wavyness to it. I need to continue to block sand it after the build primer correct? Any way here are some pictures before and after. Also any advise would be helpful for where to go from here. Thanks Barry

thor · 09-26-2011, 11:47 AM

nice work. looks more like you put on a replacement panel. the "before" was pretty rough looking. musta been a pain to pull it out.

PD1292 · 09-26-2011, 10:47 PM

Thanks Thor,
It was not easy to do. I was considering buying a new panel and cutting the outer panel off of the new panel and attaching it where the old one went, but I would have to drill and cut all the holes for the top attachment screws, and then patch the bed stake holes, not to mention the short bedsides were $440. Ouch! I guess I should re-name my thread as "1st attempt at body work" now. I bought some high build primer and shot a thick coat on the bed side. This is what i bought. 1st pic is the etch primer that was shot on first. Second is the high build primer.

PD1292 · 09-26-2011, 10:55 PM

I shot on a coat and then block sanded with 180 grit and it came out like this. I am pleased with the build primer. Now it went through the etch primer in some places, do I need to re-apply the etch primer and then apply the other primer or, do I need to just apply the build primer. It is only a few places where the metal is showing..
thanks Barry.

PD1292 · 09-26-2011, 11:10 PM

I also cleaned up the area at the top of the fender where it meets the door jam.

**jaros44sr** · 09-27-2011, 10:41 AM

Looks great to me

Im not a body and paint guy, but you can drop down into the subforum for paint and ask those guys. If it is anything like the electrical or motor section, you will have knowledgable answers

Thanks for the pics, enjoyed reading so far

Rdrdave · 09-27-2011, 12:40 PM

Keep up the great work. Very motivating

thor · 09-27-2011, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PD1292

I shot on a coat and then block sanded with 180 grit and it came out like this. I am pleased with the build primer. Now it went through the etch primer in some places, do I need to re-apply the etch primer and then apply the other primer or, do I need to just apply the build primer. It is only a few places where the metal is showing..
thanks Barry.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Looks great to me

Im not a body and paint guy, but you can drop down into the subforum for paint and ask those guys. If it is anything like the electrical or motor section, you will have knowledgable answers

Thanks for the pics, enjoyed reading so far

I agree. I would ask the pro. I am a hack.

**jaros44sr** · 09-27-2011, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thor

I agree. I would ask the pro. I am a hack.

I would like to agree to his agree, since the back half of my jimmy is rolled on flat white enamel rustoleum lol

PD1292 · 09-28-2011, 12:00 PM

Thanks for all the comments! It keeps me motivate as well!!

I posted on the paint and body work section as was suggested and the answer is: if the primer is DTM (i think that is what he said) Direct to metal, then you can prime over the small blow threws. Mine is not so I will have to re-apply the etch primer and then follow up with some build primer and continue to block.

PD1292 · 10-02-2011, 03:31 PM

OK, after many times, dont remember, mabe 5 times priming and block sanding, It looks like this. I think I am going to leave this one alone for a while and go on to some of the other body work that needs to be done. like mabe the other quarter panel on the other side. This is wet sanded to 220grit. The guys on the paint thread said i need to go down to possibly 600 grit to make it really smooth. I think i will wait till i have all the other body work done before I do that. Here are some pictures. It is primer, just wet down.

VA72C10 · 10-02-2011, 03:51 PM

Nice work! Definitely worth the effort! I agree on going 600 before paint...makes a big difference from past experience.

PD1292 · 10-02-2011, 04:32 PM

And then I painted it blue, No just kidding, photoshop.

PD1292 · 10-02-2011, 04:48 PM

more

08-16-2011, 10:28 PM	#51
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal I am currently attempting to finish welding on the fender but it is taking a long time to see results so i took a break from that and worked on the inner fender well on the driver side. It had rust spots on the front in two places. I cut them out and the replaced them with another piece. Here are some pictures. Attached Images

08-17-2011, 12:25 PM	#52
thor Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 679	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal it's looking good sir! __________________ 1972 Chevy Blazer CST.....Project: Polished Turd

08-30-2011, 11:10 PM	#53
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Thank you Thor.... Updates on the project. I got the patch panel over the wheel well done, and then found out I did not set up the metal very well before I welded. Turns out it had a large dip where the welds went. I tried to attach a stud (stud welder) to the side in an attempt to pull it out but I could not get it to stay in the shape I wanted. Frustrated, I decided to pull the whole back outer fender off.. I was worried about it while drilling out all of the many spot welds and peeling back the metal, but after the panel came off I felt better about it. I am now able to get a hammer to the back and have beat the damaged part back out to almost strait. (well strait enough for bondo work). Attached Images

08-30-2011, 11:17 PM	#54
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal I have another question now, There is a mount on the inside of the rear bedside that attaches to the removable top, it is threaded into a nut that just spins in the bedside and does not allow the bolt to come out. Is this the way it should be or should i be able to take that bolt out. I have tried to attach some vice grips to it but it wont turn out. thanks Barry. Attached Images

08-30-2011, 11:32 PM	#55
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal The bedside was also missing the sliding nut for the single wall top. Lucky for me the frame that holds the nut was still there, and I only had to make the piece that is pictured. I made it out of a thinner piece of metal at first and then had to remake it after finding there was not enough thread to hold it tight. Second picture is the frame work under the bedside that holds the sliding nut. Attached Images

08-31-2011, 12:05 PM	#56
drunkbus New Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Coos Bay, OR Posts: 1,077	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal I would just put a few tack welds on that nut that is spinning for the top mount to hold it in place. That bolt is supposed to come out.

09-04-2011, 11:52 PM	#58
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Well I could not get the bolts to come out so i had to cut them off and pull out the, i guess it was some kind of rivet nut. it left large holes where the nut was supposed to be. Ill try to weld either a nut or a thick piece of flat stock and tap it.

09-05-2011, 12:05 AM	#59
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal I had a large dent/rip on the back side of the passenger side. I tried to patch up the hole but the metal was so thin I kept blowing through it with the welder, so I decided to attempt a metal patch. Here are the results. Attached Images

09-05-2011, 11:21 PM	#60
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Sand blasted the inner back fender panel and got it painted. Attached Images

09-06-2011, 12:33 AM	#61
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,267	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Nice work! Coming along nicely!!! __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

09-26-2011, 10:02 AM	#62
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal I put the outer fender back on and after some filler work I have it pretty strait. I sprayed on some etch primer last night and will follow up with some high build primer (?) to finish it off. It seemed pretty strait but i think it still has some slight wavyness to it. I need to continue to block sand it after the build primer correct? Any way here are some pictures before and after. Also any advise would be helpful for where to go from here. Thanks Barry Attached Images

09-26-2011, 11:47 AM	#63
thor Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 679	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal nice work. looks more like you put on a replacement panel. the "before" was pretty rough looking. musta been a pain to pull it out. __________________ 1972 Chevy Blazer CST.....Project: Polished Turd

09-26-2011, 10:47 PM	#64
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Thanks Thor, It was not easy to do. I was considering buying a new panel and cutting the outer panel off of the new panel and attaching it where the old one went, but I would have to drill and cut all the holes for the top attachment screws, and then patch the bed stake holes, not to mention the short bedsides were $440. Ouch! I guess I should re-name my thread as "1st attempt at body work" now. I bought some high build primer and shot a thick coat on the bed side. This is what i bought. 1st pic is the etch primer that was shot on first. Second is the high build primer. Attached Images

09-26-2011, 10:55 PM	#65
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal I shot on a coat and then block sanded with 180 grit and it came out like this. I am pleased with the build primer. Now it went through the etch primer in some places, do I need to re-apply the etch primer and then apply the other primer or, do I need to just apply the build primer. It is only a few places where the metal is showing.. thanks Barry. Attached Images

09-26-2011, 11:10 PM	#66
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal I also cleaned up the area at the top of the fender where it meets the door jam. Attached Images



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09-27-2011, 10:41 AM	#67
jaros44sr Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Philadelphia, Pa. 19454 Posts: 9,762	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Looks great to me Im not a body and paint guy, but you can drop down into the subforum for paint and ask those guys. If it is anything like the electrical or motor section, you will have knowledgable answers Thanks for the pics, enjoyed reading so far __________________ Semper Fi...Uncle Sam, you da man All parts offered to help are free, unless otherwise noted Dont try this stuff in my build thread, unless you have 55 years of mechanical OTJ training SAFETY FIRST AS usual, off topic They say your mind goes second, can't remember the first Jim

09-27-2011, 12:40 PM	#68
Rdrdave Broke and still trying Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Alameda, CA Posts: 562	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Keep up the great work. Very motivating

09-28-2011, 12:00 PM	#71
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Thanks for all the comments! It keeps me motivate as well!! I posted on the paint and body work section as was suggested and the answer is: if the primer is DTM (i think that is what he said) Direct to metal, then you can prime over the small blow threws. Mine is not so I will have to re-apply the etch primer and then follow up with some build primer and continue to block.

10-02-2011, 03:31 PM	#72
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal OK, after many times, dont remember, mabe 5 times priming and block sanding, It looks like this. I think I am going to leave this one alone for a while and go on to some of the other body work that needs to be done. like mabe the other quarter panel on the other side. This is wet sanded to 220grit. The guys on the paint thread said i need to go down to possibly 600 grit to make it really smooth. I think i will wait till i have all the other body work done before I do that. Here are some pictures. It is primer, just wet down. Attached Images

10-02-2011, 03:51 PM	#73
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,267	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal Nice work! Definitely worth the effort! I agree on going 600 before paint...makes a big difference from past experience. __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

10-02-2011, 04:32 PM	#74
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal And then I painted it blue, No just kidding, photoshop. Attached Images

10-02-2011, 04:48 PM	#75
PD1292 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: San Angelo Texas Posts: 190	Re: 72Jimmy 1st attempt at rust removal more Attached Images

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