Dyno'ed 768hp 1305ftlbs & ran a 10.99@122

[Scottshotrods]

One more thing for you we have a customer in Texas who has a 67 stepside with a little over 1500 hp running one of our bolt in ifs kits.He runs VERY LOW 8s almost in the
high 7s.

Justin

[NewType72]

pics and vids? or a link possibly?

[bcdeutsch731]

Originally Posted by Scottshotrods

Very cool Brett

Justin

Thanks for all the help Justin, and for the great suspension kit. Everything on your kit went together smooth.

[bcdeutsch731]

Here are some pictures I took last week of the new rear suspension I made. Looking to get back to the track this week. I installed a Mark Williams 11" rear end with a 2.91 gear.

[vin63]

Nice job, Brett!

[kpeztruck]

Nice work Brett, that truck should work well, and be bullet proof! I still run stock trailing arms, that I converted to coil-overs, with an anti-roll bar. The adjustable instant center with the 4-link should give you more options to help it work better with the BIG diesel in the front. Can't wait to see new video of some passes. Good luck, and be careful. Paul

[Super73]

Very nice!

One question I have for you. Is there any reason you mounted the single heim for the wishbone vertical instead of horizontal? When doing mine, the chassis guy knew I do my fair share of street driving and mounted it horizontal. The rod end has more strength that way for a side load. IE the ball can't pull out of the end unless the whole end breaks. He Talked to the mfg about the load rating both directions. If memory serves me it was like 3-1 ratio. The front has two so it shares the load the single on is seeing. Just sharing .vbut it really does look great.
Posted via Mobile Device

[bcdeutsch731]

Originally Posted by Super73

Very nice!

One question I have for you. Is there any reason you mounted the single heim for the wishbone vertical instead of horizontal? When doing mine, the chassis guy knew I do my fair share of street driving and mounted it horizontal. The rod end has more strength that way for a side load. IE the ball can't pull out of the end unless the whole end breaks. He Talked to the mfg about the load rating both directions. If memory serves me it was like 3-1 ratio. The front has two so it shares the load the single on is seeing. Just sharing .vbut it really does look great.
Posted via Mobile Device

Super73, no reason at all. I just saw pictures of it like this and that is how I did it. My rear heim is a 5/8 chromoly joint, I think my tabs will bend before that heim lets loose.

[bcdeutsch731]

Thanks on the compliments guys.
My chassis guy was a no show tonight, so now I'm trying to find the best place to start with the 4-link bars.
Any of you know anything about 4-link suspension?
L/F=1500 R/F=1420
L/R=1000 R/R=920
Wheel base 114"
Tires M/T slick 31x13.0-15
Truck balance on jackstands with angle iron on them so it came to a point ^ 71" in front of rear axle center line.
Axle center line to ground is 14.312"
Front bracket lower hole is 4.687" off ground
Distance from axle center line to lower hole on front bracket is 23.25"

If someone can help what else do you need to know?

Thanks
Brett

[Marv D]

For what it's worth. I run pfhat tires on all my junk but I've always started with:

Botton bars level with the track, and set the wheelbase with bottom bars

Drivers side top bar parallel, set pinion angle with this bar,

Start with everything neutral, add preload with passengers side top bar if it drives right at launch.

We have very different animals but this has worked well me with for small block 9 and 10 second cars and trucks. Last weekend the truck went a 1.43 sixty and the Nova typically goes in the high 1.2's But again,,, I'm running some pretty pfhat stickeys ande a very different power curve

[NewType72]

Can't help much in the fab area but as for confidence holy cow that rear end just looks gourgeous great work and such a nice looking setup

[Captainfab]

Once again, Nice work

Was the rear end change mainly for the gear, or was the 14 bolt showing weakness?

[ChopperCity256]

Love it! Seeing this is sparking some thoughts..

[bcdeutsch731]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Once again, Nice work

Was the rear end change mainly for the gear, or was the 14 bolt showing weakness?

14 bolt was changed out for the gear and also I got it for a steal off racingjunk. If I break this one we have bigger problems then the rear end!! The Pinion gear on this MW is the size of most ring gears.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by bcdeutsch731

Thanks on the compliments guys.
My chassis guy was a no show tonight, so now I'm trying to find the best place to start with the 4-link bars.
Any of you know anything about 4-link suspension?
L/F=1500 R/F=1420
L/R=1000 R/R=920
Wheel base 114"
Tires M/T slick 31x13.0-15
Truck balance on jackstands with angle iron on them so it came to a point ^ 71" in front of rear axle center line.
Axle center line to ground is 14.312"
Front bracket lower hole is 4.687" off ground
Distance from axle center line to lower hole on front bracket is 23.25"

If someone can help what else do you need to know?

Thanks
Brett

Brett, I would try starting out with the IC right around 63" and 2" above the ground and see how it likes it. Make all of your pre-load and shock adjustments (increasing firmness incrementally on the compression and rebound) according to how the truck launches first before making additional 4-link changes (so that the truck launches straight). Keep detailed notes for each adjustment. Have fun testing the new suspension.

[Super73]

At your ride height, can you give us the following:

Axle center height
Height of the lowest hole for all four rod ends (front/rear hole for upper and lower bars)
What is the spacing for each hole (5/8" centers?)
Length of both upper and lower arms


My 4-link is set long and low. 5" off the ground and 60ish inches.

[bcdeutsch731]

Originally Posted by Super73

At your ride height, can you give us the following:

Axle center height 14.31
Height of the lowest hole for all four rod ends (front/rear hole for upper and lower bars) rear lower=5.87 rear upper=16.92 front lower=4.68 front upper=9.68
What is the spacing for each hole (5/8" centers?) 13/16"
Length of both upper and lower arms lower=22" upper=22.75


My 4-link is set long and low. 5" off the ground and 60ish inches.

Thanks for any help. I have some 4-link software that I have been playing with. I just did't know what a good starting point would be.
Thanks
Brett

[bcdeutsch731]

Originally Posted by vin63

Brett, I would try starting out with the IC right around 63" and 2" above the ground and see how it likes it. Make all of your pre-load and shock adjustments (increasing firmness incrementally on the compression and rebound) according to how the truck launches first before making additional 4-link changes (so that the truck launches straight). Keep detailed notes for each adjustment. Have fun testing the new suspension.

Vincent,
thanks for the help and also thanks for the shipping refund.

[bcdeutsch731]

Little update on the truck. I would like to thank Vincent (vin63). I set my IC at 62" out and 2.6" up and the truck hooks great. I have been fighting trans problems all year. The Allison would not hold up to all the power, so I started talking with people and they told me I need to get a BTS 4R100 trans. I had an adapter made to go from the Duramax to the Ford 4R100. Had Brian build me a trans and installed it with a PCS trans computer. I went to the dyno last week to get the trans all dialed in and the truck dyno'ed 960hp on the small race tune. Witch is 40 more hp then the Allison on the small tune. On the big tune the truck made 1105hp. I went to the track last Wendesday and on the small race tune it ran a 9.62@146. On my 2nd run I blew a boost tube. I was so happy to get the trans problems figured out. This Saturday was a Diesel Shoot Out at my local track. My first run of the day on my small tune I ran a 9.43@148 with a 1.44 60ft. The best thing is my front tires come off the ground about 2" off the line. That has been a goal of mine since I started this project 3 years ago. On my 2nd pass I ran a 9.59@146 with a 1.43 60ft. I thought since the trans was working so good and the track prep was great I would put it on the big tune and see if I could get a 8.9@15x. When the truck hit 3rd gear I herd a snap and the motor hit the rev limiter. Well that bullet proof trans is not so bullet proof. I snapped the input shaft in half. Brian told me he has never had one break before and they are made out of 300M material. He is having some new shafts made out of Jasco 1000 material, I'm not even sure that is how you spell it. He said I will not have to worry about those shafts breaking.

[bcdeutsch731]

Here are some videos of the 9.43 run.

1969 C10 Duramax Byron Diesel Drag Days 9.43@148...

1969 C10 Duramax Byron Diesel Days 9.43@148 -...

1969 C10 Duramax Byron Diesel Days 9.43@148 -...

[bcdeutsch731]

Here are some videos of the 9.59 run.

1969 C10 Duramax Byron Diesel Days 9.59@146 -...

1969 C10 Duramax Byron Diesel Days 2nd run...

1969 C10 Duramax Byron Diesel Days 9.59@146 -...

[bcdeutsch731]

Here is a slow motion of the start.

1969 C10 Duramax slow motion of start - YouTube

[vin63]

Congrats on the ET, Brett! I had set up a BBC 4-link C-10 drag truck a couple of years ago and ended up with the IC at 59" and about 3" above the ground, so I figured the extra weight of the Duramax/Allsion up front would shift the IC forward and down a bit for your chassis.

Sorry to hear about the transmission troubles - 1300+ ft-lbs can really do some damage. I ran a racing TH400 behind my fuel altered for awhile, but ended up going to a 3-disc glide clutch and a Lenco from the torque my blown Pontiac is making. How important is the OD trans for you?

[bcdeutsch731]

Originally Posted by vin63

Congrats on the ET, Brett! I had set up a BBC 4-link C-10 drag truck a couple of years ago and ended up with the IC at 59" and about 3" above the ground, so I figured the extra weight of the Duramax/Allsion up front would shift the IC forward and down a bit for your chassis.

Sorry to hear about the transmission troubles - 1300+ ft-lbs can really do some damage. I ran a racing TH400 behind my fuel altered for awhile, but ended up going to a 3-disc glide clutch and a Lenco from the torque my blown Pontiac is making. How important is the OD trans for you?

Thanks,
My motor will rev to 5500 but I shift it at 3600 to keep it in the torque band. When shifting at 3600 I'm hitting OD at the 1/8 mile mark and the whole back half of the track is in OD. I have never tried to make a run reving it out. I looked into a Bruno/Lanco but it was just to much money. I should try to figure it out on a calculator to see if it will work.
Tire size 31
Gear 2.91/1
1/4 mile speed 150-160

[vin63]

It might save a little to go the route of a full racing TH400 and a Gear Vendors, but at 1300 ft-lbs, which ever trans direction you go, it's going to be pricey. I would probably lean toward the Bruno/Lenco combo, but check with this guy, Mike Stewart...he's built all of my racing automatic transmissions, including the TH400 I had behind my blown Pontiac (I was making about 1800 hp/1500 ft-lbs at that time) in the fuel altered. He builds the stoutest transmisisons for some of the heavy, high horsepower door cars in the fastest street car scene, as well as the traditional NHRA racers from Sportsman to Top Alcohol classes.

http://mikestransmission.com/index.html