Ford Windstar E-Fan Wiring Question

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by First c10

I have a question regards to diagram 2 and the last diagram. Aren't they the same but with only one 47 ohm resister and coil?

If I understand right, you're asking about the difference between the last and the second to last diagram. If so, the last one does not control the low speed fan relay at all. It allows you to "leave out" two diodes and a resistor and a couple of wires.

Originally Posted by First c10

don't you have to have the low speed relay grounded by the PCM to get high speed ground to work?

No. The 3 relay setup has some redundancy built in. At least one fan will run at full speed if any of the relays fail or if only one of the control lines is working.

[First c10]

That's what I meant. I am with you on what you are saying.
After looking at the diagram of the way I wired it. If you only supply a ground to relay 2-3 than only one fan will run on high. If the engine warms up to the low speed temperature than both fans will go to high! Correct?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by First c10

That's what I meant. I am with you on what you are saying.
After looking at the diagram of the way I wired it. If you only supply a ground to relay 2-3 than only one fan will run on high. If the engine warms up to the low speed temperature than both fans will go to high! Correct?

That's right.

[First c10]

Will these 1/4 watt resisters work

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230837402046

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by First c10

Will these 1/4 watt resisters work

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230837402046

I should have added that to the diagrams. Anyway, the pair of 47 Ohm resistors in the last couple of diagrams dissipate about 0.46 Watts of power (each) if you do the math. That's just under 1/2 Watt, but I'd go with 1 Watt to get a good safety margin.

[First c10]

Like this ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290951071728

[First c10]

In your diagram you show 2- 47 ohm 1 wart resisters. What is the equivalent in have just 1 resister? Like a 100 ohm 2 watt? I am not sure about resisters and how that work!
Thanks

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by First c10

Like this ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290951071728

Yes, those will work fine.

Originally Posted by First c10

In your diagram you show 2- 47 ohm 1 wart resisters. What is the equivalent in have just 1 resister? Like a 100 ohm 2 watt? I am not sure about resisters and how that work!
Thanks

A pair of 47 Ohm resistors in parallel has a combined resistance of 23.5 Ohms. You are correct that the power (watts) just add together. The closest size to that is going to be 22 Ohm 2 Watt.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271385570885

[First c10]

Perfect! I will order them and let you know how it works. Thanks for the help!!!

[Houston Ben]

Hi Dayj1, great info but I am still a bit confused, are these diagrams for wiring the ground of the trinary switch to the ground of the fan relays? Sorry if dumb question but wiring is deff not my thing.

Thanks for any help.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Houston Ben

Hi Dayj1, great info but I am still a bit confused, are these diagrams for wiring the ground of the trinary switch to the ground of the fan relays? Sorry if dumb question but wiring is deff not my thing.

Thanks for any help.

Yes, that's what we're talking about. In the diagrams that I posted the pair of "fan control" wires from the trinary switch is wired to send ground to the relay coil. The various resistors and diodes shown are just there to keep the PCM from throwing codes.

[Sweetc10]

sorry to bring back a really old thread. im looking to put a windstar fan in to my 68 with a ls swap. i was wondering if i use windstar fan and jegs controller



Derale 16789

High Amperage Adjustable Dual Fan Control 3/8" Thread-In Probe




Derale 16789





Part Number: 259-16789
would this do the trick and how i go about wiring it. im new to this and dont want to F anything up. thanks for anyhelp i can get, houston ben im in the spring aera maybe u help a brother out?

[Sweetc10]

sorry to bring back a really old thread. im looking to put a windstar fan in to my 68 with a ls swap. i was wondering if i use windstar fan and jegs controller



Derale 16789

High Amperage Adjustable Dual Fan Control 3/8" Thread-In Probe




Derale 16789





Part Number: 259-16789
would this do the trick and how i go about wiring it. im new to this and dont want to F anything up. thanks for anyhelp i can get, houston ben im in the spring aera maybe u help a brother out?

[Houston Ben]

Hi SweetC10,
I didn't get an alert to your post, sorry for the delay. It looks like it will work, but I know only enough to get myself into trouble on this stuff. Yes, I did an LS swap, but I couldn't tell you how lol!

Hopefully DayJ or Brew will chime in, they are very knowledgeable in this.

I am in the League City area, let me know what you need and I will see what I can do.

Ben

[LeesTruk]

Doesn't your PCM have fan output? I used the Windstar fans in my LS swap and just let the PCM handle the fan management. Most aftermarket harnesses are built with the fan wiring and relays. If you're reworking your own harness, you may have to add two wires to your harness for relay triggers and just have whomever is flashing your PCM to turn on the fan select

[Houston Ben]

I didn't think about adding the fan wire to the pcm. I had mine stubbed for them and makes it easy for fan install

[Sweetc10]

I dont have ecm, mine is carbed. I went with jegs dual relay fan hopefully it will work out.

[Sweetc10]

i got another question, i went with jegs dual fan relay kit that came with temp sensor. i noticed it is a 3/8 npt and now i dont know where to install it. im using the passenger head plug for my temp gauge was going to use the front one for fan. im not sure i feel comfortable in drilling the head any suggestions?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Sweetc10

i got another question, i went with jegs dual fan relay kit that came with temp sensor. i noticed it is a 3/8 npt and now i dont know where to install it. im using the passenger head plug for my temp gauge was going to use the front one for fan. im not sure i feel comfortable in drilling the head any suggestions?

The short answer is that you're pretty much going to have to drill/tap somewhere because there isn't a 3/8 NPT port available.

I'd probably drill/tap the head. But you could drill/tap the water pump (make sure it's in one of the outlet passages). There's also a large plug in one of the coolant jackets on the front driver's side of the block where you could tap in. You could also braze a 3/8 NPT bung in the inlet tank of the radiator.

[Sweetc10]

thanks for reply, on drilling and tapping the head is it that big of a task? motor is in the truck. do i have to worry about the shaving getting in head?
how about a tee in the radiator hose like people have done with the steam line?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Sweetc10

thanks for reply, on drilling and tapping the head is it that big of a task? motor is in the truck. do i have to worry about the shaving getting in head?
how about a tee in the radiator hose like people have done with the steam line?

The head is aluminum, so it's soft (and easy to tap) compared to steel. Some folks will probably disagree with me, but I've never been particularly worried about a shaving or two in the cooling system. There's not really anything it can hurt. Just put some grease on the tap and it'll catch 99% of the shavings.

The radiator hose idea will work. I personally think it looks weird with a wire running to the radiator hose, but it should work fine. I just tend to get hung up on the details.

[Sweetc10]

when drilling dont have to worry about the shavings?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Sweetc10

when drilling dont have to worry about the shavings?

With the engine installed, the angle that you'd be drilling at will cause most all of the shavings to fall to the outside. And you can always use a shop vac after the drilling is done. If I were tapping the oiling system, I'd want everything to be surgically clean. There just isn't anything in the cooling system with close enough tolerances that I'd sweat over it.

[gmachinz]

Or, skip the NPT sensor mess and use this-I've been making these upper house temp switch adapters w/dual temp switch and related OEM pigtails. It makes plumbing much easier. There are two switches offered-195/180 and 225/210.

This works really well for LSx swaps where running temp switches is difficult due to odd thread sizes.

[gmachinz]

Switch connector tower and pigtails....