Thoughts on tuning engines

[Sharps40]

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[Sharps40]

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[Sharps40]

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[Sharps40]

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[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Okay. I deleted the grouchy parts. I musta lost my friggin mind.

Thanks to those that chimed in and helped.....specially AcampoDave. (He'll have a six one day too.)

I actually have a 292 waiting to find its' way into my 1951 International panel truck. This one ain't gonna be j.a.f.s.b.

[PGSigns]

Hey you can ignore list me if you want but I trying to get you to think this deal out before you kill engine number 2. There are practical limits to timing and todays fuel and just because you can't here it pining does not mean it isn't. You have a couple of unknowns in your combination and the first one is the compression and the shape of the piston. You have a good tach and a timing light and can plot your timing curve and a vacuum gauge to show you when the engine is adding timing. You also know how you drive and what the rpm is where you run the most. Look at the timing at this rpm and vavuum level and that is the number you need. If you have to ad a lot of extra initial to get it to run well in that rpm range but have to much total that is beating on the engine at times then what is needed is a quicker curve to get the timing in sooner to give you what you need with out the high total and it's ill effects. Changing the springs and or weights in the distributor is what will fix that issue. High initial makes em hard to start and builds extra heat at idle that this time of year is not an issue but come August you may find it a problem. You now have a good feel for what your truck needs to run well as far as timing for the way you drive. Now please just take the time to learn how to fit a curve to this HEI you have to give you a a safe spot at both ends and the numbers you need in the middle. Here is a link to how this works.http://www.msdignition.com/instructi...pdf?terms=8428 Some good reading on working with the curve. http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....distcurve.html
Jimmy

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Hey you can ignore list me if you want but I trying to get you to think this deal out before you kill engine number 2. There are practical limits to timing and todays fuel and just because you can't here it pining does not mean it isn't. You have a couple of unknowns in your combination and the first one is the compression and the shape of the piston. You have a good tach and a timing light and can plot your timing curve and a vacuum gauge to show you when the engine is adding timing. You also know how you drive and what the rpm is where you run the most. Look at the timing at this rpm and vavuum level and that is the number you need. If you have to ad a lot of extra initial to get it to run well in that rpm range but have to much total that is beating on the engine at times then what is needed is a quicker curve to get the timing in sooner to give you what you need with out the high total and it's ill effects. Changing the springs and or weights in the distributor is what will fix that issue. High initial makes em hard to start and builds extra heat at idle that this time of year is not an issue but come August you may find it a problem. You now have a good feel for what your truck needs to run well as far as timing for the way you drive. Now please just take the time to learn how to fit a curve to this HEI you have to give you a a safe spot at both ends and the numbers you need in the middle. Here is a link to how this works.http://www.msdignition.com/instructi...pdf?terms=8428 Some good reading on working with the curve. http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....distcurve.html
Jimmy

X 2!! I tried to offer some similar advise, but............